University of Illinois Extension

Master Gardener Meeting

Effingham County

Tuesday, June 12^th, 2007

President Purnima Shah called the meeting to order at 6:45 P.M. Present were Normalie Strickland, Betty Boos, Purnima, Brenda Roedl and Rita Kemme.

Minutes

Minutes of the May meeting were read without corrections. Normalie moved to approve and Betty seconded. Motion carried.

Financial

It was noted that we made $567.00 on the plant sale and Brenda has purchased pots for the nursing center for 35.00.

Old Business

Newspaper articles are welcome.

Brenda's Notes

Cross: We still have approximately $800.00 to spend at the cross. Mulching still needs to be done around the trees, but the weather is too warm right now to work or plant.

Office Help: This is always needed. Questions are coming in daily.

Jr. Master Gardeners: Brenda planted the tomatoes at the nursing home. They also want ideas on plants that will have seasonal interest and landscape ideas for the triangle. Garden Gate magazine has some good ideas and these will be looked at, at home.

June Projects: Women in the Wild at Ballard on the 2^nd went well. Dorothy and daughter did perennials. Betty and Lyetta helped make the day a success with making of miniature gardens. Brenda and Rita did a program on Roses at Sacred Heart on the 5^th and Rita did one for the Effingham Women at the library on the 7^th.

July Projects: Brenda will do mystery camps on the 12^th, 19^th and 26^th, for 10 to 14 year olds. She will also do Butterflies at the YMCA on the 17^th. Landscape Maintenance telenet will be held on July 17^th at 1 P.M., Rain Gardens on July 31^st, and Controlling Garden Weeds on August 14^th and this will conclude the summer series. All are at 1 P.M. unless otherwise arranged.

Recycling: A one time pickup will be held at the Health department from July 6^th to the 9^th. Tipping fee voting will be on the June meeting agenda of the County Board.

New Business

A demonstration on the Red Twigged Variegated Dogwood was given by Rita Kemme. The plant was then raffled and won by Brenda Roedl.

Next Meeting

The next meeting will be held on July 10^th, at 6:30 P.M. Meeting was adjourned at 8:30, with a motion by Betty and a second by Normalie.

The right plants not only add beauty to a landscape but can also provide birds with year-round shelter, safe nesting sites, and a ready food supply. To choose wisely, we need to understand both plant and bird characteristics.

For example, the cardinal, which is popular with many birdwatchers, prefers areas with shrubs and a few trees, especially smaller and more open ones such as Paperbark maple (Acer griseum). Viburnums, from the American and European cranberries to many of the leatherleaf-types such as Mohican and Alleghany, produce great-tasting berries ranging from red to purple to blue to black, and they provide shelter for many songbirds. Not all viburnums produce berries, so be selective when choosing them.

Spruce, red and white cedar, pines and other conifers also provide excellent nesting cover, winter shelter and wind protection for songbirds. In addition, conifers provide "green" in a winter landscape and privacy all year.

The American elder, or elderberry, has large, flat, white flower clusters in the spring and purple to black fruit in late summer. This shrub attracts alder flycatchers, yellow warblers, goldfinches and approximately 50 other species. It grows best in moist soil, but it may be too coarse for some landscape designs. New varieties produce yellow or dark-red foliage, which contrasts well with most green-leafed plants.

Because of their small size, hawthorns or thornapples (Crataegus) can be excellent trees for landscaping around one-story homes. The cockspur and spike hawthorns, which have fruit that remains on the branches all winter, provide nesting cover and food for many songbirds. Other useful species include Cornelian cherry, Kousa and Flowering dogwood (Cornus), mountain ash (Sorbus), and crabapple (Malus).

Consider birds' habitat preferences when selecting plants. For example, the flicker, oriole, and chipping sparrow like areas with only a few large trees. Others birds such as the red-eyed vireo, wood thrush, and wood peewee prefer locations with many large trees, while catbirds require only shrubs.

Also decide how a plant fits into your landscape design. Consider fall color and whether the plant bears attractive flowers as well as fruit. Use low-branching shrubs near the lawn to provide a transition from grass to the shrub border and to protect ground-nesting birds.

Add a center of interest, such as a birdbath, against a shrub background in line with a window. Place it in a recessed area easily observed from the window but far enough away from shrubs to prevent cats from stalking the birds. Change the water regularly to prevent algae growth.

Many fruit- and nut-bearing plant species are beneficial to birds. Choosing the right plants can make your backyard or garden attractive for people and inviting to wildlife.

The word is out.... 2007 is the year of the periodical cicadas! But not every area of the state will be inundated with these noisy insects.

There are two types of cicadas commonly found in large numbers in Illinois.

Dogday or annual cicadas emerge every year from the soil during the heat of the summer. Dogday cicadas are green and approximately 1½ inches long. The male "sings" to attract females, usually in late afternoon and early evening. Females do not have sound-producing membranes like the males.

Periodical cicadas are different. In the northern half of Illinois, they emerge every 17 years. In the southern half of the state, they emerge every 13 years.

This spring, the Northern Illinois Brood XIII of the 17-year periodical cicada is expected to emerge north of a line from northern Iroquois County on the east, dipping southward to northern Sangamon County in the center of the state, and then rising northward to Moline and other Quad Cities on the west. These guys haven't been seen since 1990. This brood has a reputation for the largest emergence of cicadas known anywhere. On average, the emergence numbers could total more than 133,000 cicadas per acre. In the past, some emergences have had as many as 1.5 million cicadas per acre. The south will be spared until the Great Southern Brood XIX emerges in 2011.

The timing of emergence is determined by soil temperatures. The northern emergence should begin late May.

The periodical cicada adult is 1½ inches long and dark brown/black with red/orange eyes. Males will "sing" to attract females. The trilling is very loud and occurs during the sunny part of the day. The mating period lasts for two weeks; then the males die, and the singing ends.

The female lays eggs using her ovipositor to make a slit in small twigs of trees. Branches between 3/16 of an inch up to 1½ inches are preferred. The eggs hatch, and nymphs fall to the ground and tunnel down through the soil to feed on sap in a root until they emerge 13 or 17 years later. Dogday cicadas emerge on a faster lifecycle, anywhere between two to five years.

The root-feeding damage impacts growth but does not cause enough damage to justify control. The egg-laying slit made in the twig may cause the twig to dry and break off. This damage, too, is not harmful enough on an established tree to warrant trying to control these insects. The danger for young trees is when their trunk diameters are small enough that slits made in the trunk may result in the trunk breaking.

Research has shown that insecticide applications will kill cicadas; but when analyzing overall egg-slit trunk/twig damage, there is little difference between treated and untreated test plots. The only way to protect small trees from serious damage is to protect the trunk with screening or other material. Trunks larger than 2½ inches in diameter tolerate the egg laying.

Birds and other predators feed on dogday cicadas. One predator is the cicada killer. This large wasp catches the cicada, stings the insect to paralyze it, and then buries it in an underground chamber where it lays eggs in the paralyzed cicada. When the eggs hatch, the wasp larvae feed on the paralyzed cicada.

If historical records are true, Southern Illinois will only have the usual dogday cicadas this summer. Northern Illinoisans will once again need snow shovels to scoop up dead cicadas, and they'll need earplugs to block out the cacophony of male cicadas. Residents along the boundary will have to wait and see what emerges. For some, the mass emergence of cicadas is one of nature's many wonders. For others, it is a nuisance that leaves streets and sidewalks slick and smelly with rotting carcasses.

For more information on cicadas in Illinois, log on to http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/cicadas/13or17year.html

Elm leaves may be dropping as the result of feeding by elm leaf beetles. A serious defoliator of elms throughout the United States, elm leaf beetles have a preference for Siberian elms, which are often incorrectly called Chinese elm. Elm leaf beetles are strictly leaf feeders and do not carry the fungus responsible for Dutch elm disease.

Elm leaf beetles make their first big appearance in early summer. Like boxelder bugs, they over-winter as adults and seek shelter in places such as outbuildings, homes, or under loose tree bark. Sometimes, they become an indoor nuisance during the fall "moving in phase" or in the spring when they migrate outdoors.

The adult beetle is yellowish to dull-green, about 1/4 inch long, with a black stripe along each side of the body. Adult beetles left over-wintering sites in early spring and migrated to area elms. Once in trees, the adults began to feed on foliage, mate, and lay eggs on the leaves.

The lemon-colored eggs are laid in groups of 30 to 50 on the underside of the foliage. After egg hatch, the tiny larvae begin to feed on the leaves. The larvae feed on the underside of leaves and actually skeletonize the foliage, leaving only the upper surface in tact. Infested elm trees often have a brown or yellow appearance. If feeding is heavy, defoliation can be extensive. The larvae feed for about three weeks and then migrate down the trunk of infested trees. Gathering in large masses, they pupate or turn into adult beetles. This process takes about one to two weeks.

At this stage, the larvae are resistant to insecticide applications. When the adult beetles emerge, they will fly up into elm trees to mate and lay eggs for a second generation.

Normally, older, well-established trees can survive heavy feeding. But, young trees or trees already under stress may be sufficiently weakened, leaving them vulnerable to attack by secondary insects and disease. If control is needed, foliar insecticide sprays should be applied soon after the larvae hatch from eggs. Treatment before this time will not be effective. Keep trees healthy by watering regularly and fertilizing either this fall or early next spring.

Contact the Extension office for current chemical recommendations. Be sure to read and follow all label directions.

For certified organic growers, raw animal manure must be composted unless it is applied to land used for a crop not intended for human consumption; or is incorporated into the soil not less than 120 days prior to the harvest of a product whose edible portion has direct contact with soil; or is incorporated into the soil not less than 90 days prior to the harvest of a product whose edible portion does not have direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles.

Every spring it seems that local Extension offices get questions about mushrooms . . . what kind is it? can I eat these mushrooms?

If you get these questions from clients, remember that the University of Illinois does not make positive identification of mushrooms without determining the spore pattern/print . . . which means letting the mushroom mature to the point where spores are released.

Only at this point, can we safely determine whether the mushroom is edible.

This maturing may take several days to a week or more, which means the mushroom will no longer be edible.

There are too many mushrooms that look alike.Some are edible while others are poisonous. As a Master Gardener, you are urged not to get drawn in by a client who wants "you" to actually put "their" life on the line. You can see the words "lawsuit" and "liability" all over misidentification.

If clients want to send in their mushrooms to the U of I plant pathologists or take their mushrooms to a mycologist at a university or college, that is their choice. This policy protects U of I Extension and you as a volunteer Master Gardener.So when asked to identify mushrooms, explain the University's policy and simply say,"I'm sorry...we can't safely make that determination."

Selecting the perfect small fruit or tree fruit for home growing requires some careful forethought. Many catalogs and retail outlets do not discuss fruit pollination, so it is essential to have some knowledge of pollination when selecting planting stock. In planning a fruit planting, pollination requirements must be considered if normal crops are to be produced.

Some tree and small fruit varieties are self-fruitful. A tree or shrub of a self-fruitful variety will set fruits when pollinated by pollen from its own flowers or by pollen from another tree or shrub of the same variety. In either case, such pollination is called self-pollination. Self-fruitful trees may be planted alone or in solid blocks of one variety. Most peach, nectarine, sour cherry, strawberries, grapes, currents, gooseberries, raspberries, and blackberry varieties are self-fruitful.

Some small fruit or tree fruit varieties have various degrees of self-unfruitfulness. This varies from partially self-unfruitful, to completely self-unfruitful. A self-unfruitful tree will not set a normal crop of fruit when pollinated by its own pollen, or by pollen of another tree of the same variety. Self-unfruitful trees require pollination from a tree of a different variety. Most apples, most pears, most sweet cherries, Japanese plums, blueberries, and elderberries all have some level of self-unfruitfulness and need a second tree of another variety to ensure a normal crop.

In addition, some apple varieties like Jonagold, Winesap, Crispin (Mutsu), and Stayman should not be used to pollinate another apple variety because their pollen is sterile, resulting in a third variety being needed to ensure proper fruit set.

Crabapples that bloom at the same time as eating apples can be used as pollinizers. Remember that pollinizer pairs need some bloom overlap to be successful. For example, an early-season apple variety would not be a good pollinizer for a late-season apple, and vice versa. European plums, some apples, and apricots are considered partially self-unfruitful and can produce a normal crop if a second variety is planted. Jonathon, Golden Delicious, and Rome are apple varieties that can set a small crop without cross-pollination.

The bottom line is this: When planting any small fruit or tree fruit with any degree of self-unfruitfulness, plant a second variety to avoid any potential pollination problems. A tree or shrub of a self-unfruitful variety should have a pollinator tree planted within 50 to 100 feet of it to ensure good fruit set.

- Elizabeth Wahle, horticulture specialist

The new U of I Extension website, Selecting Trees for Your Home, includes detailed information about 121 different trees and criteria that you can use in making your choices. In addition, the site provides information about 508 different pests and disease problems. The site allows you to search by "tree name" or by specifying certain criteria such as size and special needs (i.e. a tree that tolerates a dry site or one that will grow in alkaline soil). Log on at

http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/treeselector/

Now that most of our spring-flowering shrubs and trees are done blooming, it is time to prune them so they will flower on schedule next spring. These plants perform best with annual pruning. Since early-flowering plants bloom from buds set the previous summer, prune them now so they have plenty of time to set buds for next spring.

Begin by removing all dead or broken branches. Multi-stem flowering shrubs can become too tall and bare at the bottom. Renew them by cutting some of the oldest stems to the ground each year. This pruning stimulates new growth from the roots. Cut out ¼ of the oldest stems all the way to the ground. Renewal in this manner keeps the plant quite free of borers and scale insects, and the oldest stems will be only four years old.

Old plants may have only a few main stems. The immediate result of renewal on these plants can be somewhat unattractive. But, new shoots from the bottoms of the plant will provide a better shape as well as foliage to the ground. Then, future renewal pruning will result in no loss of beauty.

Stems remaining from renewal pruning are often too long and ungainly. These stems and single-stem plants and small flowering trees may be headed back. Head back overly long branches by removing them to a shorter side branch that grows in the same direction or away from the center of the plant. The result will be a smaller plant, but it won't change the character or shape of the plant.

Flowering trees and single-stem shrubs are often grafted on different rootstocks. Remove any suckers that are growing from the ground. Also, remove any strong vertical water sprouts that shoot up through the center of the tree before they take over.

Most people shy away from pruning their plants for fear of harming them or making a mistake. But, pruning actually stimulates plants to grow, making them more vigorous and healthy, resulting in better flowering. Plants continue to grow; so if you make a mistake, you can prune again the right way in a season or so, after the plant recovers.

Don't be afraid to experiment. Plants are very forgiving. They can take quite a bit of abuse and come back faithfully to provide enjoyment and beauty in the landscape.

- David Robson, horticulture educator

Q. I have read in other publications that working the ground will bring the weed seeds toward the top, and the fertilizer goes to the bottom.I was insisting on not tilling this year to see the difference, until I read your recommendation to the contrary. I only use compost, llama and goat manure as fertilizer. What is your opinion on that?

A. Working the soil can bring weed seeds to the surface where they may warm and germinate. But in many cases, tilling the soil may bury the seeds, especially if you turn the ground 6 to 8 inches deep.By going deep, the seeds won't have enough energy to germinate and reach the surface.However, if you constantly turn the soil, some of the seeds will be returned to the surface–so one turn may be enough. Also, many seeds are small enough that they won't germinate after a year or two.

The bottom line is that the benefits of working the soil far outweigh the inconvenience of the weeds. And for most organic soil amendments, incorporation is vital. Soil organisms break down the organic matter, turning it into fertilizer for the plants to use. A root can't absorb a piece of manure, but it can absorb the nutrients provided after soil organisms break it down–and this breakdown happens after the manure has been incorporated. Other benefits of working organic matter into the soil include improved moisture retention and drainage.

Keep in mind that natural fertilizers such as compost and manures are acceptable, but their nitrogen content may be less than commercial fertilizers. Realize also that grazing animals eat and deposit weed seeds. So, your very fertilizer can be a source of future weeds. If you do use manure, make sure it is not fresh. Manure must be properly composted to avoid any risk of e-coli contamination, particularly around food crops. Thoroughly work the fertilizer into the garden soil, making sure there is fertilizer from the top down through 6 to 8 inches. You may need another application...such as top dressing or a manure tea later in the season to help plants continue to grow.

- Answers provided by Extension horticulture staff David Robson, Martha Smith, and Elizabeth Wahle

Want something out of the ordinary for your landscape? Something that has a unique style and character all its own? Look no further than weeping trees and shrubs. Here are just a few that can provide stunning accents in the landscape.

Japanese maple (Acer palmatum var. dissectum 'Crimson Queen') is a small deciduous plant with branches that arch and cascade downward. It can be multi- or single-stemmed. Finely cut leaves emerge red in the spring before turning purplish-red during the summer. It is slow growing and the mature height is 8 to 10 feet with a spread of 12 feet. It prefers full sun to part shade. 'Tamukeyama' is another variety of Japanese maple that is slightly shorter than 'Crimson Queen.' Remember that not all Japanese maples have a weeping, cascading habit.

Weeping blue atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica 'Glauca Pendula') is an evergreen that has beautiful bluish-silver needles. It has a strong weeping habit and will need to be staked. It is typically 6 to 15 feet tall if staked. Mature spread will vary from 10 to 20 feet. Due to its unique habit and how this evergreen has been trained, each specimen takes on its own personality making no two plants alike. It requires full sun to part shade. Although frequently available in southern Illinois, weeping blue atlas cedar is on the edge of its cold hardiness zone. Plant it in a site that is protected from winter winds. It is fairly drought tolerant.

Nootka cypress (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 'Pendula') is an outstanding evergreen with an elegant shape and dark green foliage. It likes moist to moderately wet soil conditions and is great to use next to ponds or streams. In warmer regions, which includes southern Illinois, it will benefit from partial shade. In cooler areas, full sun is recommended. Its mature height is 20 to 30 feet with a spread of 8 to 12 feet.

Weeping cherry (Prunus subhirtella 'Pendula') is a popular, fast growing, deciduous tree that has beautiful pink to nearly white flowers in spring. Flowers of this graceful plant can be either double or single. Typically grafted, the mature height is 15 to 25 feet with a similar spread. For best flower production it prefers full sun.

Weeping Norway Spruce (Picea abies 'Pendula') is an evergreen with dark green needles and an irregular habit. If staked and supported, it may grow 5 to 15 feet in height. If not staked, it will spread across the ground like a woody groundcover. The form it takes depends upon early training. It performs best in full sun, but can withstand partial shade.

Weed control is an issue for just about anyone with landscape plantings around the home. Weeds invade and compete with plants for nutrients, water, and sunlight–and they are unsightly in the landscape. When the season first begins, most of us do a great job of keeping weeds under control. But, the long-term battle with weeds is often lost as we tire and the season progresses. One of the best ways to keep ahead of weeds is to gain an understanding of weed biology and life cycles to maximize the effectiveness of control methods.

Most weeds are classified as either annual, biennial, or perennial.

Annual and perennial weeds can be a grass or broadleaf species, while most biennial weeds are broadleaf. Annual weeds are prominent in the fall, winter, and early spring (winter annuals), or in the late spring, summer, and early fall (summer annuals). These weeds sprout from seed when conditions such as soil temperature are ideal for their growth. Biennial weeds grow just two seasons. They grow vegetatively the first year, send up a seed stalk the second year, and then die. Perennial grass and broadleaf weeds usually go dormant in the winter and grow back each season from permanent underground plant parts such as a crown or rhizome. Knowing the type of weed is important for determining when and how it should be controlled. For example, herbicides that affect weed seed germination should be applied well before the seeds start to grow. Perennial weeds are best controlled by herbicides when they are actively growing and storing reserves in late summer.

Success is improved when we consider control from a weed ecology perspective that involves both environment and weed biology. Like all other plants, weeds are affected by environmental factors of light, air, temperature, and moisture. An important weed biology concern is

limiting new weed seed introduction. Weed seeds in the soil can be compared to making deposits and withdrawals from a bank, or a "weed seed bank." Our actions (or lack of) lead to either a withdrawal or

deposit of seed in the soil bank. Over time, enough seed withdrawals can be made to significantly reduce weed pressure; but if not managed, weed problems can increase due to new deposits. Weed seeds can have significant longevity in the soil (years and decades) and can be high in number depending on the site. When weeds are allowed to go to seed, a large percentage of these seeds cause problems the next year; and, another percentage will remain in the soil to periodically germinate, creating problems in future years.

We lose ground when weeds are allowed to go to seed or when they are introduced unintentionally. Manure and other un-composted materials are good organic matter additions to the garden; but, they can also

contain weed seeds. Late-season weeds can be a major source of new weed seed deposits. When it is too hot to work in the garden or when we go on vacation, weeds can take over and go to seed unnoticed. Some weeds have the botanical characteristic of flowering when days get shorter in the fall. This day-length response results in weeds that quickly go to seed soon after they germinate, producing seeds on small and young plants. For example a spring-germinating pigweed will get large by the time seed heads form, while a late-summer germinating pigweed will form a seed head when the plant is much smaller.

Both cultural and chemical methods can be used to control weeds. Cultural methods include mulching, hoeing or hand-pulling weeds, using stale seed beds, and solarization. Chemical control includes "pre-emergence" and "post-emergence" herbicides.

Pre-emergence materials are applied to the soil to prevent weed seed germination. As the name implies, the material needs to be in the soil before weeds germinate. Thus depending on whether weeds are winter or summer annuals, timing the application is important. Preen™ is an example of a pre-emergence product.

Post-emergence herbicides are applied to green tissue of living plants. These herbicides can be selective and not harm certain species of plants, or they can be non-selective with the potential to kill whatever they are sprayed on. They can also be classified as contact herbicides which burn and kill above-ground plant parts, or translocated, meaning the chemical is moved from the leaves to the roots by the plant, effectively killing the entire plant. Round-up™ is an example of a non-selective, translocated post-emergence herbicide.

When advising clients on weed control issues, explain to them how weed biology and ecology are affected. For example, some weeds need brief sunlight exposure to germinate, and mulching prevents that exposure. Minimal disturbance to the soil will help reduce weed seed exposure to light and other germination stimulus.

You may be getting questions from clients about the bumps or galls they're seeing on the leaves, twigs, roots, and flowers of many plants. Plant galls often appear as balls, knobs, lumps, or warts of various shapes, sizes, and colors.

Galls develop from plant tissues that have been irritated and/or stimulated by a parasitic organism. The growth is similar to a cancer-like growth, with cells rapidly developing in a variety of shapes or forms. We think galls are caused by powerful plant-growth regulating chemicals produced by the parasite. If the parasite leaves the host or dies, normal cells are again produced.

Aphids, midges, wasps, or mites are responsible for about 95 percent of the known types of galls. Bacteria, fungi, and viruses cause the remaining 5 percent.

A common gall in Illinois is the maple bladder gall. The small wart-like growths can easily be spotted on silver (soft) maple. Galls are first green, and then they turn red and finally black.

The hackberry leaf gall forms a tiny nipple on the upper surface of hackberry leaves. This gall is so common that many people believe it is a natural part of hackberry leaves. The gall is first green and then turns a purplish-brown.

A dozen different galls can be found on oak and hickory trees. Hickory galls are usually caused by aphids, while oak galls are caused by wasps.

Although the galls are common and easy to see, they are seldom important enough to control. However, there are times when galls can be serious problems on stems and twigs instead of leaves. Gouty and horned oak galls occur on the branches of pin oaks and shingle oaks as well as a few others, though you seldom find the galls on white oaks and bur oaks.

These galls start out as leaf galls, but a secondary stage starts to invade the twigs and limbs. When that happens, knobs develop; these knobs can be smooth (gouty) or knotted. As the gall grows, it girdles the end of the branches which can cause severe dieback to the trees.

Unfortunately, there is no easy control of these galls. Hand pruning is needed but that may be impractical due to the quantity and size of the tree. It is critical to improve the overall health of the tree with regular fertilizing and watering. In severe cases, the galls may weaken the trees to the point where it's better to remove the tree. Raking leaves in the fall and composting them (or burning where allowed) might reduce the populations.

In the other situations, insect- and mite-produced galls disfigure twigs and foliage but rarely seriously affect the health and vigor of the host plant. Once gall formations become noticeable, the insect or mite causing the injury is protected from chemical sprays. By this time, it is too late for any control other than removing the infested part.

Hand removal is only practical when there are a few galls present. Chemical sprays are seldom warranted where gall infestations are light. Plants with heavy infestation or those that are tremendously unsightly can be treated. Spray treatments can be used to prevent future gall formation, but these treatments must be correctly timed to eradicate the pest once it emerges and before it has had time to induce the gall. Sprays applied after galls are formed are ineffective.

Some gall-producing insect populations can be reduced with a dormant oil spray applied to trunk and branches in early spring, just before buds open. Some insecticides will control gall formation on elm, hickory and maple leaves when thoroughly applied to foliage as buds are unfolding. Contact your local U of I Extension office for the current recommended controls. When talking with clients, emphasize the importance of reading and following all label directions when applying any chemical.

To control most galls, thoroughly spray the foliage before the leaves are fully expanded. It is nearly impossible to treat large, established trees. Just remember that most of the time galls are only an aesthetic problem.

June is the perfect time to buy and plant perennials. In June, the garden center will feature larger, more mature flowering plants than often are available in the spring.

Warm-season ornamental grasses don't look great in containers during May. You really have to have a lot of faith that they will look like the picture later in the season. Miscanthus, Pancium, Pennisetum, and Saccharum species all need heat to get growing. June is when they start to fill in their container and look like something. The heat of the summer hasn't hit yet, so June is a great month to initiate, rejuvenate, or redo a perennial garden area.

June is also a great month to get new ideas. Visit a botanic garden or travel to an old favorite or a yet-unseen garden center to check out the new perennials you can add to your garden. Attend a garden walk for new ideas on how to place perennials and new plant combinations. Attend lectures when offered at local gardens or retail outlets. Sign up for a garden bus tour if offered in your area.

Or, just get in a car (with a very large trunk) with a few gardening friends and take a road trip to new uncharted garden territory! There are many ways you can learn and experience gardening in June! Above all, set aside time in June to enjoy your own gardens. Revel in the success of your work and dedication. Bring flowers indoors for fresh bouquets or take some to work and share with others.

June is the month set aside to honor one of our favorite flowers. Roses have a place in most every yard, and there are no secrets to having beautiful roses. Any gardener can grow roses by following a few basic guidelines.

nSite selection comes first. Roses need at least six hours of sunshine each day.

nRoses also need to be spaced at least 3 feet apart to allow for air circulation and to minimize diseases.

nDrainage is second only to sunlight in importance. Roses need a soil that is well drained. It may be necessary to build raised beds to provide adequate drainage in some areas.

nPlants usually won't spread far outside the planting hole. It's better to dig a wide, shallow hole and amend it than to dig a deep, narrow hole.

nRoses need at least 1 inch of water per week. However, if the temperatures climb above 90 degrees, water them twice a week, applying 1 inch with each application–which will give the plants a total of 2 inches per week during extreme heat.

nFertilize monthly with a rose fertilizer or weekly with a water-soluble fertilizer according to label directions. Water and fertilizer are two of the most important aspects in maintaining bloom and health of the plants.

nIf diseases and insects are a problem, consider spraying regularly to prevent the diseases and control the insects. Rotate chemicals so the roses don't develop a resistance to the products.

Shrub roses are the current favorites.

Instead of long-stemmed specimens with many petals, shrub roses tend to be compact with lots of blooms. And instead of blooming every 30 days or so, the plants tend to bloom continuously. Shrub roses also tend to be more resistant to black spot, powdery mildew, and insect pests. Plus, they are some of the hardiest roses in terms of surviving the winter. Little protection is needed. So if you're looking for roses that don't require a lot of care and maintenance, consider shrub roses.

For more complete information on rose selection, planting, pruning and care, visit Our Rose Garden at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/roses/

- David Robson, horticulture educator

Pest attacks come hand-in-hand with the gardening season. And, the question often becomes "to spray or not to spray." Ask yourself that question before grabbing a bottle of pesticide. Should you spray or is there an alternative?

Most pest problems start out small. Perhaps an infested branch can be removed. Or, you could simply handpick the critters off a plant. This can save time, energy, money and chemicals. But unless you monitor your garden, you might not see the pest until it has consumed a major portion of your investment. At this time, chemical control may be the only choice.

If the chemical option is selected, follow these guidelines.

n First, read the label. Understand what the product is intended to do and the timing of application. When during the lifespan of the pest is it best to apply? Correct timing will give the best control with the least amount of chemical.

n Correctly identify the pest. Caterpillars resemble sawfly larvae but the products to control them are different.

n Caterpillars can be voracious eaters, but the majority will turn into colorful butterflies. If you choose caterpillar control, don't question the absence of butterflies later in the season. Consider the 'pest factor' before spraying.

n Mix material as directed. Don't think that if one teaspoon is recommended, two teaspoons will be better. Effectiveness will not be increased by doubling the amount of chemical. In fact, higher concentrations can harm plants.

Follow all personal safety instructions on the label. A sleeveless tank top and flip-flop sandals are probably not the recommended protective clothing. Even if clothing is not listed on the label, consider a long-sleeve shirt, pants, eye protection, socks, closed toe shoes, and gloves.

n Use measuring utensils–don't guess at amounts. Have a set of measuring utensils specifically designed for chemicals. Write on them "chemicals only" and don't use these utensils in food production.

n Spray on target. Don't apply a chemical across a 20-foot border when only 2 to 3 square feet require attention–it may not be necessary. Read the label to find out if the entire plant needs to be sprayed. Spray to the point of runoff and stop.

n Application equipment should be in good working order. Leaks can lead to damage on non-target plants. Use equipment that is recommended on the label.

n Spray when the weather is calm. Pesticide drift occurs when spray is carried off target by the wind. You can also minimize drift by spraying at a lower pressure and using the largest nozzle opening that will still allow you to complete the task.

n Watch the weather and avoid the heat of the day. Some pesticides will burn plant material if applied when temperatures are too hot. High temperatures can also cause some pesticides to evaporate and decompose quickly. Spray in the morning.

n Spraying before a rain or overhead irrigation should also be avoided. Spraying under these conditions not only reduces the effectiveness of the chemical by washing it off the plant, but it can also lead to groundwater contamination.

n Read the label of chemical pest products to find out the necessary steps for bee protection.Avoid spraying insecticides when bees are active.

Keep these spray guidelines in mind when selecting a pest control method. Monitor and identify the pest early. Consider your control options.

- Martha Smith, horticulture educator

Q.. I have some junipers which are turning rusty brown from the bottom and moving upwards. I was first advised it might be a fungus. But, more recently, spider mites were suggested. I bought an insecticide with specific activities against spider mites. But three weeks of weekly spraying have not shown much improvement.

A. Junipers suffer from Phompsis tip blight, environmental factors (such as overwatering, underwatering, ice and cold damage), spider mites, and other problems. Tip blight usually occurs on the lower limbs, but as the name implies, at the tip of the branches. It normally shows up in the spring. Spider mites can be easily detected by shaking an affected limb over a piece of paper. Since mites are almost microscopic, you'll be looking for specks that start moving. While some insecticides have spider mite action, insecticidal soap is still the best control. Make sure you read and follow the directions on the label.No matter what you spray, once the needles are brown/rusty, they are probably dead. They won't come back, and taking the pruning shears to the plant for a beauty trim is the best thing to do.

As far as environmental injury, there isn't much that you can do. Make sure that downspouts and gutters don't provide too much water. On the other hand, make sure the plant is watered during dry spells and going into the winter. Ice and snow, especially the weight of the two, can cause some serious damage. Again, remove the dead to improve the appearance.

Q.I have yucca plants, but I do not know how to manage and control their spreading. Is there a system to handle them?

A. Once yuccas establish, they will spread all over the place. The only way to prevent that is to dig up the plants

when they are small and discard. Some gardeners have covered the plants with layers of black plastic for three or more months to kill them. It takes perseverance.And once you remove the offsets this year, you'll need to remember to keep doing it year after year after year. There are some chemicals that will control yuccas, but repeat applications may be necessary. Look for products that work on woody landscape plants. Yuccas are one of the few plants that a person really needs to think about before adding to the landscape

Send your lawn and garden questions to:

The Green Thumb

c/o Annette Campbell

U of I Extension

4202 Williamson Pl. Suite 2

Mt. Vernon, IL 62864

E-mail: mdcampbe@uiuc.edu

- Answers provided by Extension horticulture educator David Robson

The striped cucumber beetle is about 1/5 inch long with black head and wings striped with yellow and black. The spotted cucumber beetle is about 1/4 inch long and has a black head and black legs with a yellowish-green body and wing covers with 12 distinct black spots. The larva stage of both species live in the soil and feed on the underground parts of plants.

Cucumber beetles are chewing insects and may attack cucumber, bean, melon, squash, and pumpkin. In addition, the spotted cucumber beetle feeds on asparagus, corn, and eggplant. These insects are destructive to new seedlings just pushing through the soil. Later in the season, the adults feed on leaves, blossoms, and fruits. As they feed on crops, cucumber beetles may spread bacterial wilt and mosaic, two serious diseases of vine crops. Either the disease or the feeding may cause serious damage or complete crop loss. Contact the U of I Extension office for current control recommendations.

June is the perfect time to buy and plant perennials. At garden centers, you'll find larger, more mature flowering plants than often are available in the spring.

Warm-season ornamental grasses don't look great in containers during May. Miscanthus, Pancium, Pennisetum, and Saccharum species all need heat to get growing. June is when they start to fill in their container and look like something.

The heat of the summer hasn't hit yet, so June is a great month to initiate, rejuvenate, or redo a perennial garden area.

June is also a great month to get new ideas. Visit a botanic garden or travel to an old favorite or a yet-unseen garden center to check out the new perennials you can add to your garden. Attend a garden walk for new ideas on how to place perennials and new plant combinations. Attend lectures when offered at local gardens or retail outlets. Sign up for a garden bus tour if offered in your area.Or, just get in a car with a few gardening friends and take a road trip to new uncharted garden territory! There are many ways you can learn and experience gardening in June!

- Martha Smith, horticulture educator

The yellow-bellied sapsucker, a woodpecker, damages trees in early spring while migrating north for the summer. Previously damaged trees should be protected at this time to reduce further damage.

The damage consists of rows of neatly spaced horizontal or vertical holes in tree trunks and branches. Rarely does the woodpecker kill a tree, but its feeding may weaken the tree and make it more susceptible to disease and insect problems.

To reduce damage from these birds, hang strips of aluminum foil, pie tins, or other objects that flash light and/or make noise in the trees. Previously damaged areas of the tree can be wrapped with burlap or other protective material during April, May, September, and October to prevent further damage. Do not leave wraps on the tree during the summer since moisture accumulating under them may encourage disease problems to develop.

Keep trees as healthy as possible. In the spring, supply an inch of water per week as trees are leafing out or producing new needles–if rainfall doesn't amount to the inch. Water the trees throughout the summer, supplying an inch at least every two weeks. Fertilize trees in the fall to help them recover for the following year.

- David Robson, horticulture educator