Peonies are probably one of the most durable perennials we can plant. Peonies will thrive in the same place for as long as fifty years or more. Mine are 32 years old now. They are best planted in the fall, although containerized plants can be planted at any time. Most get along with no attention at all. The soil should be well prepared before planting. Look for a spot that drains well. Allow enough room for the plants. Mature height is 2 to 3 feet and the spread is also 2 to 3 feet. Dig the spot to a depth of 12 inches and add in organic matter and a low nitrogen fertilizer such a 5-20-20. Use a handful for each bush. Plant divisions with the small pink buds exactly one inch below the soil surface, making sure the pointed ends are up. Container plants should be planted at the same depth as they were growing in the container. If peonies are planted too deep they will not bloom. The foliage will do well but they will not produce flower buds. Newly transplanted shrubs need one year to recover. Competition from the roots of trees and shrubs will also cause flowering problems. Peonies like the sun, even as much as all day. ( I do have two planted on the north side of the garage and they do well), blooming a week to 10 days after the ones on the south.
Fertilizer: Peonies are heavy eaters. They like a balanced fertilizer, such as 20-20-20 applied in the spring before growth begins or in the fall. Apply in a ring around the plant and water it in well. A second feeding after blooming helps to strengthen the plant.
Stake them: Many buds on the stems tend to make the branches lean to the ground, especially after a rain. Use purchased plant stakes or make your own using dowel sticks with screw eyes in the head and run heavy wire through. Remove them after flowering to allow sunlight and air to move through the branches to aid in disease prevention. For bigger flowers, remove all but the large end bud. If you are after lots of flowers, and don't care what size they are, leave all the buds. When flowers fade, cut off just below the heads.
Trouble shooting: The most common peony problem is botrytis blight which makes leaf spots (black spots similar to the black spot of roses, and causes the buds to wither before they open. Ants can spread this disease as they move about the plant as can damp weather. No, the ants are not necessary to open the buds of the plant. Botrytis blight will not kill the plant, but it does make the leaves unsightly. Control with a fungicide sprayed as the shoots emerge from the ground, and twice again at 10 day intervals.
Fall cleanup: Prevent disease from wintering over by cutting the stems off at the ground or even an inch below the ground. Burn these tops. Do not compost. Then if you had signs of disease, soak the area around the plants crown with a fungicide.
Peonies put forth their fragrant blossoms right at Memorial Day and come in colors of white, pink, rose, red, and some of the newer cultivars are bicolor. Blossoms are single, anemone, or double.
Timely Tips
Water, water, water. Some of the hanging baskets may even need watering twice a day. Temperatures above 90 degrees make it difficult to maintain soil moisture for the plant to survive.
Think about taking cuttings. Article to come on this.
Control mosquitoes. Change water in bird baths frequently. Do not let water collect in old containers etc. lying in the yard.
Question of the Week
When can I stop fertilizing roses? As a general rule one can fertilize until the 1st of August and then stop so the new growth has a chance to harden before frost. Call Brenda at 347-7773 if you have a question.
Telenet
August 1- Perennials for Special Uses. Sharon Yiesla will discuss easy care plants for the slope in the back yard or under the trees. 1 P.M. U of I Extension, 1209 Wenthe Dr. ( $5.00)
- By Rita Kemme
