Have you noticed how often you end up "talking gardening" no matter who it is you are with? I can't think of a better way to share a moment with friends and new acquaintances than to hear about each other's yards, plants and experiences. The neat thing is we not only gain some new insight but also a friend too. Gardening enables us to discover new connections with people we hardly know.

Everyone has been asking me, how does your garden grow? Well, I am having a lot of fun since the heat and sun have transformed our plants into giants. The snaps have been so rewarding, as have the delphiniums (plants & blossoms 5 feet tall). The squash plants are so large that Karl looks like a toddler when standing nearby. In fact, Daisy completely disappears, which I believe she adamantly enjoys! There's nothing like raised beds to make chores easier, too.

Something new for us this year was installing soaker hoses and in-ground sprinklers to help us with the watering. What a big difference this made-now it's a flick of the switch to get the water in all the right places. So far, our front yard border gardens, side yard woodland garden and raised beds are "covered". It's made such a difference; I hope we'll get the rest of the back yard completed this fall.

But right now, our next project is installing a covered porch so we can look out and enjoy the back. (Isn't there always something new to do?) I'll keep you posted!

Thank you to all the MG's who have planted and who have been maintaining the gardens at both the DuPage County Fairgrounds and also the new butterfly garden at Willowbrook Wildlife Haven in Glen Ellyn. What a terrific job you did, especially with the challenging weather (3 inches of rain for the butterfly garden crew to deal with). Both spaces are large areas that required many plants to be individually handled. Your "can do" spirit is impressive and the both the Forest Preserve District personnel and the Fairboard Association have expressed their thanks. Since the Ferris Wheel Garden at the Fairgrounds was planted in spring, it has had a chance to develop into a beautiful show of red, white and blue!

The Naperville farmers market help desk will be getting underway shortly. Interestingly, while we are there to help people with their garden questions, the main thing we end up doing is marketing our services...which is extremely important, since so many people say Extension is the best kept secret. So, please be sure to greet as many folks as possible and distribute our hort corner brochure and any other bulletins they may be interested in. This effort is really an "investment" in our future - alerting people to our services.

Hopefully many of you will attend the state MG conference that will be held in nearby Rockford this September. It's a great way to meet other MG's, strengthen your garden knowledge and also have a good time! (It also "counts" as enrichment training for re-certification!)

Need Hours? We have some opportunities available for those of you who are in need of hours or would just like to get involved. If you are interested in any of the following, please call the office for details.

Saturday mornings, Aug. 3 – Sept. 28
Butterfly Garden Maintenance Team
Various days and times

What an interesting spring we had!! Between rain – no rain – hot – freeze - rain – cold – warm – okay – you lived thru it too!!! However, with all this bizarreness, it has made it possible for us to observe every disease there is.

Anthracnose is everywhere!! Especially on our poor stressed out, not really for this area, American sycamore. Other trees include ash, elm, maple, oak and walnut. This disease can hit fruit, vegetable, herbaceous species, and turf. Have I covered everything? Well, if not anthracnose will.

With regard to trees, the good part is, it's confined only to the leaves (except sycamores). The leaves are covered with tan, or brown or black spots. Eventually, the spots may connect making blotches that include midribs and veins. Leaves loose their shape, young leaves die and drop. The tree should leaf out again, but if the fungus is still there, go thru the whole process again. Sometimes these infected trees have to produce several different sets of leaves before the dryer weather begins.

How do I control this air-borne disease?? With the standard good sanitation methods. Get rid of infected plant parts. For trees that are continuing to lose their leaves, give them a shot of fertilizer. Use resistant tree varieties, and, of course, keep your fingers crossed for dryer spring weather.

- By Ambi Pellegrini

Mulch enriches and protects soil while providing a better growing environment and is one of the simplest and most beneficial practices you can use in your garden. Mulch protects soil from erosion, conserves moisture, maintains a more even temperature, retards weed growth, keeps vegetables clean, allows access into the garden even when wet and gives a neater appearance.

In the vegetable/fruit garden, inorganic mulches (we'll consider only applicable plastic products) provide the benefits of weed retardation, moisture retention and clean fruits, but they do not add nutrients or improve the soil structure. Furthermore, they are difficult to rearrange and remove in the fall. Using a black, moisture permeable black plastic (after soil has reached 50 degrees), lay the 3 feet wide strips to cover planting area. Secure the material with any type of weighted material (1x2's, bricks, pencil rod, soil spikes, etc.). For tomatoes, cut holes in sheets 3 feet on center and plant. Installing cages now, although not necessary, will allow for a much neater garden and the fruit will be much easier to harvest. To further reduce labor, put down soaker hoses, with hose running next to plants. Use a programmable timer for watering saves labor. If you would rather not use soaker hoses, it is easy to water each individual plant with a wand-type watering device. The water goes where it is needed. Fertilize bi-weekly, half strength. (When first planting, use full strength.)

Probably the best method to mulch vegetables organically (it certainly is the most economical) is using newspaper and grass clippings. Lay down newspaper, two or three sheets thick and put a 2 – 3 inch layer of grass clippings on top of paper. Weigh down with a 1x2 or other securing material. Avoid using grass clippings if you have used herbicide on your lawn. You may include shredded leaves with grass clippings. Although you may plant before or after preparing the mulch, planting first is, without a doubt, the easiest. Again, if this crop is tomato, plant on 3 feet centers and in cages for ease of harvest. Install soaker hoses and fertilize (15-30-15).

Continual use of organic mulches has a cumulative effect – it improves all aspects of the garden (added nutrients, improves soil structure, earthworms, etc.). Cleanup is easy as the paper, grass and leaves work into the soil during the growing season and during end-of-season garden care. Water no more than once a week and fertilize bi-weekly (half-strength).

Huge benefits are gained if you use composted materials. If you have sufficient compost to double dig and then use the newspaper with shredded leaves and grass clippings, you should have fantastic crops!

Wow, what happened to easing in to summer??? Where are those balmy evenings and cool breezes? Not here! Summer is upon us with a vengeance. There is little time to work in the garden before the heat and humidity take their toll. So...watering and waiting are the major activities these days. Hopefully we will see a break in the heat and can spend more time "refining" our garden efforts the way we would like. Until then, here are some tips that might come in handy...

No rain. High heat. What to do? Get out those soaker hoses! Water deeeeeeep. Using a bubbler, soaker hose, or drip irrigation system, wet the soil deeply. Plants develop shallow root systems and become more vulnerable to drought if you water them frequently. Instead, water less often - slowly and deeply. This cannot be emphasized enough. This method of watering encourages deep root growth and makes plants better able to search out any moisture in the soil. I know it's a nice feeling to hold the watering hose and wave it back and forth over our flowers as we admire the scenery, but you are doing more harm than good by that short interlude of dampening. Give your prized greenery and beautiful flowers a true "big gulp" and soak them all the way down.

Hint... you can test the depth to which the water has penetrated by pushing a 1/2 -inch-thick iron rod into the soil. It will slide easily through wet soil - but will stop where the soil becomes dry.

Make use of compost, which goes a long way toward drought-proofing your garden. It will help soil retain moisture, ensuring that your plants will receive maximum benefit from your watering or any precipitation that might slip into the landscape from above.

Let your lawn go dormant. Dormancy is grass's natural defense against drought. If it appears that a drought is going to drag on for a while, stop watering your lawn. Once the grass goes dormant - usually in 1 to 2 weeks, give it only 1/2 [inch of water every 2 weeks. The roots and buds will stay alive without resuming growth.

Keep color in the yard by planting more drought-tolerant flowers. Annuals that withstand dry conditions include gerbera daisies, moss roses, sunflowers, marigolds, and zinnias. Perennials include black-eyed susans, penstemons, coreopsis, evening primrose, and yarrow.

Keep your plants cool by staving off the effects of dry conditions using mulching material. The insulation provided by mulch makes plant roots less vulnerable; a 3-inch layer of shredded leaves will keep the soil as much as 18 degrees cooler than any nearby beds that remain unprotected. (Keep mulch away from the crown.)

Mmmmm Mmmmm Good! Ever hear the phrase "It looks so good I could eat it"? Well, there are many "edible" flowers that can make meals more visually appealing as well as interesting and unique.

First and foremost, be sure to identify flowers before eating them. Many are poisonous by nature so check a reference guide or even your local poison control center if you are in doubt about a particular flower that is not commonly listed as "edible."

Flowers not only look pretty in a dish, but they also add various unusual flavors that can be a nice surprise. Gladioli are lettuce-like, and tulips taste like asparagus or peas. Clover reminds some people of honey, while daylilies have a chestnut flavor. Nasturtiums have a peppery bite, and dianthus tastes like cloves. Close your eyes, take a bite and see what you think!

To make candied flowers as dessert decorations, paint violets, pansies, or apple or rose petals with lightly beaten, slightly frothy egg white. Sprinkle with superfine (not confectioners') sugar. Let them dry on a baking rack or clean mesh screen and store in a tight-lidded container.

Mix rose petals, lavender, or violets into cake batter or cookie dough for a sweet treat.

Steam daylily blooms in a vegetable steamer until just wilted. Then toss with a little butter and grated Parmesan cheese and ohhhh yummmm!

Last but definitely not the end of possibilities, Ice Cube Blossoms~ Trap violets or maybe rose petals in ice cubes to float in summer punch. First freeze an ice cube tray half full of water and then center the blossoms on the cubes. Drizzle each with a teaspoon of water, being careful not to move the flowers; refreeze. Finally, fill the tray completely and freeze again. Oh how pretty!

Here's a list to keep handy: ***

Can Eat	Don't Eat
Bee Balm	Anemones
Chives	Azaleas
Daylilies	Buttercups
Dianthus	Clematis
Hollyhocks	Daffodils
Lavender	Delphiniums
Nasturtiums	Foxgloves
Pansies	Hydrangeas
Roses	Irises
Scented geraniums	Lilies-of-the-valley
Squash blossoms	Monkshood
Sunflowers	Sweet peas
Tulips	Wisteria
Violets

*** Remember, this is a small list of both do's and don'ts. Consult proper reference sources to verify positively any flower or plant you wish to consume if you are at all unsure. Also, allergies should be taken into consideration.

A new twist on the hanging basket...Have you ever seen a hanging "salad"? Try planting a hanging basket with salad greens and herbs for a cook's garden right outside the kitchen door. It's so easy. Be sure to use a good, well drained potting mix. The basket is pretty, leafy, looks and smells good, and it's out of reach of slugs and caterpillars too!

Back to watering for a minute...Do you have a specimen plant that sometimes (most times) gets forgotten during the watering process? Well, how about a custom waterer for that spot. Perforate a one gallon plastic jug (love all the possibilities they offer if you don't put them in the recycle bin) and bury it near the plant with its spout right at soil level. Fill the jug with water; it will seep out slowly and keep the roots moist. (Put the cap back on too so it reduces evaporation and also helps the water remain clean and free of debris.)

Speaking of hot weather ... how about a "Hot" Hummer garden? Hummingbirds like flowers of red, orange, and bright yellow. Bee balm, zinnia, salvia, daylily, penstemon, and red-hot poker are good choices. They not only have those "hot" colors that the birds like, but they also tolerate the hot weather pretty well too!

Hummingbirds, like bees, are great (and pretty) pollinators. Draw them to your garden for a real eye pleasing treat. If you have a trellis, plant some trumpet creeper, morning glories or honeysuckle... when the blooms arrive, hopefully so will the hummingbirds.

Get those binoculars ready!!!

- By Joyce Ernst

Summer has arrived and with it longer days that allow us more time to be where we like best...our gardens. The frantic pace of spring is over and we are able to enjoy the fruits of our labors. Many gardens have benches strategically placed to enjoy the view. Yet a true gardener is never really sitting but up and moving, strolling the beds, checking things out.

During these strolls carry a pair of pruners in your back pocket to take care of the biggest chore of summer perennial maintenance, deadheading. Scissors work well or just use your fingers. It hardly seems like a chore at all if a little is done each night after dinner (the dishes can wait.)

Usually, deadheading is simple grooming. Depending on the size of the stem, use your thumb and forefinger, or scissors, or pruning shears, to remove spent flowers. Removing the flowers prevents a plant from making seed. If you'd prefer that your favorite plant sow offspring, allow at least a few seedpods to mature i.e., Aquilegia [Columbine], Corydalis, Alcea [Hollyhock], and Digitalis [Foxglove], to name a few.

Cut back the spent flower stems of the following spring-bloomers any time now: Amsonia, Aquilegia, Dicentra (Bleeding Heart), Geranium macrorrhizum , Phlox divaricata, Primula (Primrose), Pulmonaria, and Salvia. Wear rubber gloves when cutting back Euphorbia, because its caustic sap causes an allergic reaction in some people.

Deadheading many summer perennials encourages repeat bloom. To get the longest performance, snip off the spent flowers of Achillea (Yarrow), Phlox maculata and P. paniculata. Look for the buds of new flowers and cut back to above those buds. Cut back the stems of Coreopsis grandiflora (unless you can see additional buds, then just snip to those), Delphinium, Echinops, Knautia, Scabiosa, and Veronica 'Goodness Grows', and plants will produce new flower stems.

Other perennials need deadheading just to maintain appearances. These include: Adenophora (Ladybells), Campanula, Digitalis (let D. purpurea set some seed to assure you have a crop next year), Helianthemum, Malva, and Sidalcea.

Hemerocallis (Daylily) requires a slightly different technique. Use your fingers to snap off the individual fading daylily flowers. When all the flowers on a stem (technically, it's called a scape) have finished, use pruners to snip the stem at the base. If the foliage begins to get ratty after flowering, pull or cut off handfuls of the browning leaves at the base. They'll soon be replaced by fresh leaves that will look attractive until frost.

Pruning To Improve Performance
Another simple pruning chore involves perennials that won't flower for several more weeks (or months). It may seem drastic, but to encourage stockier stems and shorter plants that need less staking, it's a good idea to shear back fall-blooming chrysanthemums and asters (except 'Purple Dome' which is naturally short). If mature plants of Physostegia tend to flop over in your garden cut those plants back, too. This works well for Heliopsis helianthoides and Eupatorium maculatum 'Gateway.' For any of these plants, cut stems back by about half. The first time I did this, it was difficult – emotionally, not physically. But, after seeing the splendid results, it's a task well worth the effort. And it's much faster than staking would be. Finish this job by mid-July, though, to ensure timely bloom this fall. Platycodon grandiflorus is notorious for flopping as are some of the Veronicas. By pruning it back by one half in June, plants grow 1 to 2 feet shorter than normal, there is a delay in flowering and no staking is needed.

Other early-flowering perennials look best if treated drastically this month – shear the plants back to basal leaves, and you'll be rewarded with fresh, thrifty growth that maintains its tidy habit for the rest of the season. You can even use sharp hedge shears instead of hand pruners, if you have a lot of plants and not much time. Included in this group are: Aquilegia (if leaves are badly marred by leaf miners), Lamium, Geranium endressi, G. 'Johnson's Blue', G. sanguineum (and other hybrids that flop and sprawl after bloom), Dianthus deltoides, Nepeta, Penstemon, many of the Salvias, and Saponaria. Mature plants of Coreopsis verticillata and C. rosea benefit if cut back by half later in the summer.

Layering To Extend Bloom
If you have a large stand of one perennial, cut back half of the perennials in the grouping to extend the bloom time early in the season before flower buds have formed. This works especially well with Bee Balm, Physostegia, and Sedum 'Autumn Joy'. Staggering or delaying bloom extends the season of interest in the garden as well.

Perhaps the best guide to the pruning of perennials is a book called "The Well Tended Perennial Garden" by Tracy DiSabato-Aust. Much like Dirr's "bible" for woodies, it contains a wealth of information for any perennial you may have in your garden. So enjoy your strolls and take care of deadheading along the way.

- By Kathy Riley

The Language of Flowers has an ancient and fascinating history, which includes the development of the tussie-mussie, a form of floral craft that dates back to the middle ages.

Tussie-mussies are small bouquets, generally consisting of one large flower surrounded by smaller flowers and greenery. The tightly packed flowers are wired together and then wrapped with ribbon or lace, and/or placed in posy holders that are most often made of silver.

Tussie-mussies, also known as nosegays or posies, developed during the middle-ages in Europe. In medieval times these garlands were composed of sweet scented flowers and medicinal herbs. Their use was twofold. The herbs were thought to ward off air borne diseases, such as the plague, while both the flowers and herbs helped to diffuse unpleasant odors. These posies were truly a necessity during an era when bathing was infrequent and sanitation inadequate. Ladies forced to make their way out into the filthy streets of medieval times would sniff their tussie-mussies to hold back the rancid smells. In the 16th century tussie-mussies were mostly used as decorative items; tucked into boutonnières or fitted bodices. But, by Victorian times The Language of Flowers became widely practiced and tussie-mussies, still in high fashion, also came to be known as "word posies". Flower Language dictionaries aided in the translation of these tussie-mussies and were widely available during the period.

Cleverly guarded messages can be expressed through tussie-mussies. For instance a bashful suitor might present his beloved with a posey of red roses (pure and ardent love) and heliotrope (eternal love) to express his infatuation. Elaborate tussie-mussies can communicate whole thoughts through the careful selection of flowers. For example, you might want to send a new homeowner a bouquet of roses, lilacs and comfrey, which says: Congratulations (roses) on your new/youthful (lilacs) home sweet home (comfrey). Or maybe you would like to give a tussie-mussie to your best friend. Create a beautiful spring arrangement of pussy willows, daffodils, blue hyacinths, pink tulips, and ivy. Your message will say: I value (daffodils) your kind (blue hyacinths), friendship (pussy willow), loving (pink tulips), friend (ivy).

Christopher Lloyd's Book, Color for Adventurous Gardeners, 2001 - Firefly Books, Ltd., is all about "hot" gardens, which have become so popular over the last few years. I feel somewhat like a trendsetter, as I have had a "hot" garden for more than 10 years, thanks to my husband's passion for anything "red" and to my very sunny backyard. When my husband first requested (emphatically) red flowers for our garden, I didn't have a clue as to what to include. All the flowers I loved at the time were from the "English Style" of soft palette flora. While I am still passionate about pastel flowers, I have gradually come to appreciate the dynamic show "hot" colored flowers can provide for the garden. I wish Christopher Lloyd had created this book 10 years ago, as it would have saved me a lot of research into deciding what color combinations to use in my bold bed. Nonetheless, I am finding this book to be very beneficial, both in choosing plants and in creating harmonious designs. In fact, thanks to this book, I see a lot of plant moving and plant purchasing in my garden future.

Christopher Lloyd is a supreme garden designer and an exceptional plantsman. To quote this self-assured gardener, "The limitations imposed by rules are a safe haven, but the adventurous gardener will want to try something different." I can attest to the fact that Mr. Lloyd lives by his words. I was lucky enough to visit his garden in England, a few years back and I was blown away with his adventurous style and his creative eye for the use of bold color.

His book, Color for Adventurous Gardeners is divided into twelve chapters. Chapter 1 discusses color theory and the techniques for its use. The other eleven chapters are divided by "colors," with each chapter dedicated to a single color. For instance, Chapter 3 Challenging Orange discusses all plants orange in every shade from glowing orange to the softer shades of peach. Some of his recommendations may shock you; like his suggestion to combine the color orange with pink. But try not to immediately discard what seems like a garish clash of color. Christopher Lloyd understands "orange" and knows how to make it work, and, he makes it work gloriously. To quote, "With the vitality of glowing embers, fanned by wind, orange is possibly the most exciting and challenging color in the gardener's palette. Yet it is the one that many reject out of hand for any part of their garden." Every "color" chapter is packed with ideas for planting partners. I particularly appreciate the comprehensive list of suggested species and their specific cultivars. There are many superb pictures of these plants within the book, including some stunning photos of Mr. Lloyd's own garden. This author is an assertive gardener and you may not agree with all of his estimations on color and/or on plants. For instance, salmon, apricot, coral, and peach are some of my favorite colors. However, in the Chapter The Truth About Pink, Christopher Lloyd makes it clear that salmon is not a favorite of his. I don't disagree with him when he says: "I have a problem with salmony-colored flowers...salmon can be quite an aggressive tone which needs careful handling". But, while I appreciate his professional opinion, I will not be giving up my Salmon and Blue planting scheme. Even if you don't intend to be a full-fledged "adventurous color" gardener, you will find a multitude of design schemes and superior plants that will work - even in an "English Style" gardener's landscape. To put it into Christopher Lloyd's own words, What ever we do, it must be with gusto. That comes naturally to you (as a gardener) anyway.

- By Eileen Kostock

• The banana tree is not really a tree. It's an herbaceous plant whose "trunk" is actually tightly-wrapped leaves. Stalks can be 38 feet tall, which make them the world's tallest plants without woody stems.
• The cooling effect of a young healthy tree is equivalent to 10 room-sized air conditioners operating 20 hours per day.
• The largest known tree in North America is "General Sherman" in Sequoia National Park in California. This sequoia is 280 feet tall and 37 feet wide.
• Chewing gum was originally produced from the sap of the "chicle" tree found in Central America. Remember the small squares of chewing gum called Chiclets?
• The world consumption of toilet paper equals 72,000 acres of trees per day.
• A large oak or maple tree can lose up to 40 gallons of water through its leaf system over a 24-hour time frame.
• There are more trees in the U.S. today than there were in 1900 and the Red Maple is the most widely distributed tree in North America.
• One acre of forest absorbs 6 tons of carbon dioxide and produces 4 tons of oxygen.
• The 60,000,000 trees lining the streets of America have an average value of $525.00.

(excerpted from "Tiller's Tales", the newsletter of the Suburban Garden Club by Warren Senneke)

"The Garden Thymes" is the official newsletter for DuPage area MG's. If you misplace your copy, it can be found at our DuPage County Extension website. From time to time, you may have something you would like to share with fellow MG's or perhaps include an article of your own. We would love to hear from you!! Keep in mind the deadlines below for submissions. As always, your comments and suggestions are most welcome.

The deadlines for all articles to be submitted and for all volunteer hours forms are:

Issue #5 – August 30
Issue #6 – October 31

If you have an event you want everyone to know about, please contact Deb McCullough. I need the info one week before material is due in the office.

July 24, Morton Arboretum
Seasonal Flowers & Foliage, 7- 9:30 pm

July 26, The Growing Place, Aurora
Butterfly Gardening, 1 pm

July 27-28, The Natural Garden
Butterfly Garden Festival

July 27, Sid's, Bolingbrook
Composting, 10 am

July 27, Sid's, Palos Hills
Orchid Tips & Techniques, 10 am

July 29 & August 15, Cantigny
Twilight Walk, 6:30 pm

August 3, Sid's, Palos Hills
Climbers, 10 am

August 3, Sid's, Bolingbrook
Ornamental Grasses, 10 am

August 3, The Growing Place
What's Bugging You? 9:30 am

August 3, The Natural Garden
Ornamental Grasses, 11 am – 12:30 pm

August 7. Morton Arboretum
Summer Flowering Shrubs, 7-9 pm

August 10, Sid's, Palos Hills
Curb Appeal (front yard)

August 10, Sid's, Bolingbrook
Beginning a Perennial Garden

August 11, Garfield Farm
Prairie Walk, 9 am-noon

August 11, Morton Arboretum
Bug Bonanza, 1 – 3:30 pm

August 10 & 11, Chicago Botanic Garden
Pepper Festival & Gardeners of the North Shore Show & Sale

August 16-18, Chicago Botanic Garden
Midwest Bonsai Society Show & Sale

August 17, Platt Hill, Bloomingdale
Landscaping with Trees & Shrubs for Fall & Winter Interest, 10 am

August 17, Cantigny
Favorite Plants of Summer 9:30 am

August 17, The Growing Place
Front Yard Design Basics, 9:30 am

August 20, The Natural Garden
Designing with Prairie Plants, 10 am-noon

August 24, Sid's, Bolingbrook
Designing a Fall Perennial Garden, 10 am

August 24, The Growing Place, Aurora
Treasured Roses, 9:30 am

August 24, The Growing Place, Aurora
Old House Party, 9 am – 4 pm

August 24, Sid's, Palos Hills
Illinois Native Prairie Plants

August 24, Morton Arboretum
Summer Prairie Flora, 9 am – noon

August 24-25, DuPage County Fairgrounds
Annual Koi & Goldfish Show, sponsored by the Midwest Pond & Koi Society

August 24-25, Chicago Botanic Garden
Bromelia Society Show & Sale
Cactus & Succulent Society Show & Sale
Northshore Iris & Daylily Society Show & Sale

August 25, Garfield Farm
Heirloom Garden Show, 11 am – 4 pm

August 31, Sid's, Palos Hills
Grubs, 10 am

August 31, The Growing Place
Back Yard Design Basics, 9:30 am

August 31, Platt Hill, Bloomingdale
Fall Blooming Annuals & Perennials, 10 am

August 31, Sid's, Bolingbrook
Fall Lawn Care, 10 am

September 7, The Growing Place
Flowers for Cutting Gardens

September 7, Sid's, Palos Hills
Fall Lawn Care, 10 am

September 7, Sid's, Bolingbrook
Orchids, 10 am

September 7, Platt Hill, Bloomingdale
Proper Planting & Pruning of Shrubs & Trees, 10 am

September 8, Garfield Farm
Prairie Walk, 9 am – noon

Many of these events require advance registration and/or fees. For more information or directions to these locations, call:

Cantigny Park/Gardens, Winfield
630-668-5161

Chicago Botanic Gardens, Glencoe
847-835-5440

Garfield Farm Museum, LaFox
630-584-8485

The Growing Place, Naperville
630-355-4000

Morton Arboretum, Lisle
630-719-2400, www.mortonarb.org

The Natural Garden, St. Charles
630-584-0150

The Planter's Palette, Winfield
630- 293-1040

Platt Hill Nursery, Bloomingdale
630-529-9394

Sid's Greenhouse, Palos Hills
708-974-4500

- By Deb McCullough