My garden confidence is in full swing since spring has arrived.
Everything in the yard looks wonderful-vibrant green, fresh new foliage and buds, all growing just so fast. It makes me feel (and look) like I know what I am doing!

After two very large trees (90 + yrs old) were removed from our backyard (hazards since they were too close to the garage and house), our yard and life has been transformed. Now we can see the sky!

Having always wished for a cutting garden, I am thrilled that Karl and I built 4 raised beds - enough space for flowers, herbs and veggies too. We took special care with the soil prep, making a light and loose mix, so nice that even Daisy (our dachshund) decided to lay in the bed since it is so "soft and fluffy" ...something she now knows NOT to do again.

I cannot wait to grow tall snaps, giant marigolds, larkspur, bachelor buttons, china asters, giant zinnias, dahlias and delphiniums. There is nothing like a new garden season (and sun) to spur you on.

After School Programs

MG's have done a remarkable job in our gardening programs for young people. The DPP Site Supervisors have been calling and writing to exclaim their appreciation for the Terrariums from Trash program recently conducted at six locations in the county. This effort involved lots of planning, supplies, coordination, and enthusiasm, but judging from all the positive comments, it was very well received and worth it. A special thank you goes to Lynn Bement for contacting RC Cola in Chicago and to that company for donating 150 clear 2- liter bottles for this program effort. Also to Sandy Perakis for ordering and delivering all those ivy and dracaena plants!

Budding Gardeners Day

Saturday May 4 was a perfect day for our third annual Budding Gardeners Day. Susan and the MG's developed four hands-on lessons: flower container gardens (Christine Holmes, Larry States, Ron Ory), herbs (Karen Del Campo and Mary Toohey), making recycled paper cards (with cosmos seeds) that you plant later (Elaine Weil and Ambi Pellegrini), and worm condos (Paul Stoffels and Mary Ellen Boledevich). We had a great time and ended the day with garden bingo (seed packets to the winners) and herb/veggie snacks. Many of the parents have already called Susan to say how much their children enjoyed the day.

Help Us Help You

Please note the office is happy to provide copies of materials for all your talks and programs, but they really need a few days' notice. Coming into the garden season the MG program gets really busy and fair time is fast approaching too so please help by calling ahead and letting Joan, Carolyn and Judy know what you will be needing.

If you were plagued with those obnoxious black and red bugs on the south and west sides of your house, you were not alone. Thousands of Box Elder bugs found their way to my house and every other house that has a Box Elder tree nearby. These bugs can find any crack or crevice in any building. When the weather gets cool, they work their way into your house – then into your walls, and spend the winter with you!! Come spring they flock to the warmest side of your house and hang out.

POSITIVES: Box Elders don't reproduce indoors, and they don't damage anything. Caulking all cracks and crevices helps to prevent them from entering your home. Box Elders are very resistant to insecticides so death by vacuum cleaner works well.

THINGS TO REMEMBER: Don't do death by squishing. They stain the carpeting red. Their fecal matter also spots draperies and house siding. As quickly as they arrive, they leave. So start caulking.

- By Ambi Pellegrini

Comments, suggestions, ideas, etc....e-mail me at hockeymom@iname.com

Looking for some color in your herb patch? (Yes, I know, green is a color...and herbs come in many shades of green.) But how about purple, something beyond "Purple Ruffles" basil?

Perilla frutescens is a tender annual here, sometimes called shiso (pronounced "she-sew"). Perilla resembles coleus, not surprising since both are members of the labitiae family. It has oval, gently ribbed, finely toothed leaves which grow in opposed pairs on a sturdy stem, 12 to 15 inches tall. Perillas small, white flowers resemble those of the coleus, too. Perilla is not too particular about its site, though full sun helps it show off its best color. It doesn't mind poor soil, either. Perillas will self-seed, so once you grow it, there's likely to be a new generation the following year. Stray seedlings are easily controlled by pulling.

There are green Perilla varieties, but the purple ones give a note of dark, warm color to your garden all season, and they are useful in other ways as well. The leaves have a fairly strong, spicy flavor, akin to that of arugula. They are used to make dye - giving the pink color to the sliced pickled ginger found as a condiment in Japanese restaurants. The Japanese dip them in batter and cook them as part of a tempura meal, and use them in sushi. Add a small, shredded Perilla leaf to a big green salad, or try one in place of one of the lettuce leaves in a sandwich. Or, just enjoy their dark, ruffled shapes in your garden.

- By Sandy Lentz

When a good friend lamented about the failure of her mailbox plantings, I was moved to try to solve her problem. She was certain the damage to her plants was caused by dogs as they relieved themselves at her mailbox. With some guilt as a motivator (I walk my dog every day), I tried to solve her problem. Through my research, I made some surprising discoveries and came up with at least three reasons why mailbox plantings do not flourish. One reason may be the fact that dogs often mark their territory on mailboxes. Dog urine is very acidic and could cause burning of your plants. Realistically, there is little that can be done about this problem. There are "dog-deterrent" products that can be applied to the mailbox and the plantings, which may help curb this doggie habit. But the success of these products is variable and may need to be re-applied on a regular basis.

Another cause for mailbox planting failure is neglect. Water hoses often do not reach the mailbox and mailbox plantings are usually not incorporated into a garden bed. It's not surprising then, that the feeding, watering, mulching and weeding of these plantings is often overlooked.
Still, the most likely villain in the demise of mailbox plantings is road salt. Road salt has a devastating effect on plants. Plants exposed to salt spray can die in one season, or they may linger for several years before dying from cumulative doses of road salt. Leaf scorch, dieback, and stunted growth in spring and summer are all symptoms of winter's salt exposure. Watering these plantings heavily in spring can help to leach out these salts. Applying compost is also beneficial, as it will replenish depleted nutrients caused by the sodium in road salt while also improving soil structure. In addition, choosing plants with a higher natural tolerance for road salt will increase planting success. Studies have been done to determine which plants have the best salt tolerance. Below is a list of recommended plants:

Spirea, Potentilla, Pinus Mugo (Mugo Pine), Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia Creeper), Armeria maritima (Sea Thrift), Artemesia 'Powis Castle' (Wormwood), Artemesia schmidtiana 'Nana' (Silver Mound Artemesia), Dianthus x alwoodii, Calamagrostis acutiflora 'Karl Foerster' (Feather Reed Grass), Elymus glauca & 'Elijah Blue' (Blue Lyme Grass), Hemerocallis 'Cherry Cheeks and 'Stella D'Oro', Heuchera micrantha 'Palace Purple' (Coral Bells), Hylotelphium 'Autumn Joy' (Sedum 'Autumn Joy'), Limonium latifolium (Sea Lavender), Liriope Muscari (Creeping Lilyturf), and Pennisetum alopecuroides (Perennial Fountain Grass).

*You may want to experiment with other named varieties of hostas and daylilies. I bet you will find many of these tough perennials to be as tolerant as the hybrids named above.

- By Eileen Kostock

Raspberries are the hardiest of the cane berries in the Chicago area and also the most worthwhile garden crop. They are unique because their roots are perennial while their shoots, or canes, are biennial.

There are two types of raspberries: One-crop raspberries produce fruit on the previous years' canes while the two-crop (ever-bearing) will produce on the upper portion and tip of the new canes in the fall and then produce a second crop on the rest of the cane the following year.

Without a doubt, 'Heritage' is the top raspberry for our area - it is of the two-crop type. Remember, you can limit this berry to one crop by cutting back in spring for a heavier fall yield.

Do not plant raspberries in soils formerly used to grow potatoes, tomatoes, peppers or eggplant; the wilt diseased that affect these crops also affect raspberries, and the fungus and virus that cause the diseases may remain in the soil for many years.

Cultivate raspberries frequently enough to prevent grass and weeds from developing around them. Use shallow cultivation to avoid harming roots. Do not cultivate in the fall, as this tends to stimulate new growth, which is susceptible to winter injury.

In late fall, mulch plants to a depth of six inches with straw or leaves; in spring maintain mulch at a depth of four inches. This mulching reduces need for cultivation, reduces moisture loss and aids in controlling weeds. Apply fertilizer in late fall or early spring at the rate of three pounds of nitrogen per 100 square feet. Raspberries need 1-1/2 – 2 inches of water each week during fruiting season and once every two to three weeks during the rest of the growing season if rainfall is inadequate.

One last precaution: Don't put any of your pruned raspberry canes or parts in a compost pile. You must destroy them or dispose of them in a sanitary way to minimize spread of the diseases so prevalent in this plant.

- By Warren Senneke

Secrets of Plant Propagation
By Lewis Hall
Published by Storey Books

Most gardeners have propagated plants by division or by seed at one time or another, but only a minority have ever tried other methods of propagation even though many of the most expensive shrubs and other types of garden plants may be easily multiplied if one knows how. Lewis Hall takes the mystery out of all types of sexual and asexual (vegetative) propagation techniques in a book that is both easily understood and enjoyable to read.

Virtually every kind of garden plant and major specie of shrub and tree is discussed. Many plants can be propagated by more than one method and each technique is explained and illustrated in a step-by-step manner. Some species (such as many evergreens and some deciduous trees) are most easily grown from seed. The author discusses how to gather and start those seeds. Likewise, there is a section on the multiplication of bulbs and corms. Did you know, for example, that one can encourage the bulbs of hyacinths to multiply more quickly by scoring the underside of the bulb with a knife before planting?

The last one third of the book is devoted to an exhaustive reference to the propagation of hundreds of specific types of trees, shrubs, vines, and herbaceous plants. The coverage of each type of plant details the best method of propagation as well as the time of year at which it is best attempted.

Given the cost of some of the more desirable and coveted types of ornamental shrubs and plants, the $18.95 cost of this book may be one of the all time bargains for the backyard gardener.

Note: This book was voted one of the top 75 American garden books by the American Horticultural Society.

- By Lou Horton

Many types of plants are available for the water garden. All of them work together to help keep your pond healthy.

Floating plants such as water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) and duckweed (Lemna) cover the surface of the water to shade the garden and help to keep algae in check. They also filter excess nutrients in the water. The long trailing roots of water hyacinth and water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) also provide a place for fish to hide and spawn. These plants are very prolific. Because of this, they are illegal to own in some parts of the country and cannot be transported across state lines.

Marginals grow along the shoreline or margin of the pond. While they help filter nutrients, their roots grow in the soil to stabilize the shoreline. Examples are cattails (Typha), rushes (Juncus and Scirpus), and sedges (Carex).

Lotus (Nelumbo) and water lilies (Nymphaea) also shade the water and provide habitat for fish and amphibians. They come in many colors and sizes from the miniature pink 'Rose Laydekeri' that has a spread of 1-3 feet, to the giant Victoria that has a spread of 15 to 20 feet and individual leaves that can be six feet across.

Submerged plants such as anacharis (Egeria densa) and elodia (Elodia) are often overlooked, but are really the most important plants in the water garden. These plants grow beneath the surface of the water. They give off oxygen and provide food and habitat for fish. They also use excess nutrients in the water so much that they can starve algae.
An assortment of all types of water plants in the water garden will keep algae growth in check.

- By Pat Kosmach

My interest in learning more about the unique ecology and beauty of Midwestern prairies started about the mid-1980s when I attended several prairie walks at the Schulenberg Prairie in The Morton Arboretum. These walks were typically led by naturalists such as Ray Schulenberg, after whom that prairie is named, Stephen Packard, now the Midwest Coordinator for The Nature Conservancy, and others. It was easy to detect the passion for the prairie generated by these walk leaders. This encouraged me to learn more about our native landscapes and I particularly enjoyed the wetlands to oak savanna uplands at the West Chicago Prairie.

Another interesting time was the severe drought of 1988 when Chicago went through an unrelenting period of 90 degree+ days and maybe up to eleven 100-degree days all without rain. People were keeping their trees, shrubs and lawns alive by watering and were even using buckets of 'gray water' carried from a sink to get around water restrictions. In June of that year, I started visiting the Arboretum prairie every two to three weeks. The biweekly changes in the prairie were remarkable as flushes of different flowers changed the appearance of the prairie from one visit to the next. Also, it was remarkable that the unwatered grasses and forbs stayed a healthy green due to their incredibly long roots finding moisture deep inside the ground. The grasses were shorter that year in September but their beauty was high.

At this time, I was also experimenting with various prairie plants in home perennial gardens. Some were fine additions and others were aggressive, floppy, or not as useful as I had envisioned.

In another year, a botanizing tour of the Indiana Sand Dunes was led by Floyd Swink and Gerould Wilhelm. We viewed many unique ecosites including some rare prairies. At a more commonplace area, while Floyd and Gerould were extolling about some carex or other, I came across an anemone in seed; this was Anemone cylindrical (thimbleweed). I was already growing native and non-native anemones in my garden and I collected a few seedheads to germinate at my home. In time, I started some seedlings and tested this prairie forb in a home setting.

The plant was interesting but not particularly ornamental enough to warrant featuring. It starts from a basal rosette of anemone leaves, then develops straight bare stems leading to a top cluster of leaves followed by typical anemone flowers, colored somewhat greenish white. These flowers later form seedheads shaped like a thimble, hence the common name. I would usually remove these seedheads as they ripened to control self-seeding.

In time I had three or so plants thriving in a dappled sun spot on one side of a brick walk. The other side of the path included sizeable mature peonies, daylilies and bee balms and received a little less sunlight. One year I noticed a thimbleweed rosette growing under what was going to be a three to four foot established peony 'M. Jules Elie' as the season progressed. I planned on weeding it out but it got swamped by the developing foliage of the other plants and I got busy with other early season tasks.

One would expect that if this plant were to survive it would need to grow sideways onto the path to catch some available sunlight as it became enveloped by the other larger established perennials. It might also be expected to be shaded out and die. Imagine my surprise when later in the season I saw ramrod straight stems and a cluster of Anemone cylindrical blooms emerging from the top of the three-foot tall peony towering over it. The thimbleweed did not grow sideward or lean into the pathway for more available light. Instead, it grew absolutely straight up to finally emerge in the sun to flower above the dense peony foliage.

I marveled when I saw this and recognized it as a strategy for survival in a prairie situation. The thimbleweed would develop relatively early for a prairie forb and later be swamped with taller aggressive asters, grasses and others. Rather than attempt to locate a spot of light for survival, thimbleweed is programmed to shoot straight up, develop a topknot of foliage, and flower. The fact that twelve inches to the side had available light made no difference to this prairie stalwart that 'knows' it must grow straight up to survive.

I anthropomorphized Anemone cylindrical somewhat but it reinforces notions about our unique prairie ecosystems and the part each individual player has in it. Ultimately, I weeded it out, but the memory of this prairie plant stays with me.

- By Don Obuch

"Light the Fire Within"
By Ron Ory

If you watched the opening and closing ceremonies for this year's winter Olympics, you saw and heard the theme: "Light the Fire Within." The ceremonies were certainly inspiring; so were the athletic performances. I was fortunate enough to see some of them in person, for I spent a week in Salt Lake City during the Olympics.

For those interested in gardening, the Great Basin is surely a different climate. The Salt Lake valley is very fertile and the Great Salt Lake is a very harsh environment which nevertheless has abundant fish and fowl that live in or on it. The mountains are four-seasons of beauty and provide those of us with a photographic bent a place to go wild!
But let me continue with my impressions of the Olympics. Yes, the security was tight and some of the lines were long. However, the atmosphere was alive with the Olympic spirit of friendship. Everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves and had a great time.

One of the reasons that people enjoyed themselves was the tremendous number of volunteers. There were volunteers for security, crowd direction, information, medical aid and many other functions. Most of the participants for the opening and closing ceremonies were volunteers from the Salt Lake area, but others were from all over the U.S. I met a cop from Minnesota and an EMT from Cincinnati. Can you imagine being ebullient at 6 a.m. in the dark and cold! These volunteers were. The theme for the Olympics–light the fire within–was enkindled not only in the athletes (who are also not paid) but also in all those who had a chance to enjoy the games.

I think that's what all Master Gardeners do throughout the year: share the knowledge, skills and enthusiasm we have as gardeners with the rest of the folks throughout the county. Ain't it fun to volunteer?

As if every inch in your yard is not filled already, here comes a list of some new perennials that there just MUST be a place for... somewhere???

Clematis texensis Common names: Scarlet Clematis, Texas Clematis. Flowers on new growth so prune in late spring; drought
tolerant; native; better density than most clematis; grayish green leaves. Rapid growth, reaching a height of 5 to 10 feet. Flowers look
different (chalice shaped) and can be red, purple or scarlet in color but not as many as the hybrids and will flower from summer till the
first frost. Climbing method is the same as with other clematis. Needs sun with shaded roots.

Clematis integrifolia Common name: Solitary clematis. A non-climbing clematis but it may need staking. Herbaceous and grows up to two feet tall with steel blue flowers over thick clumps with many stems. Summer blooming, reblooms in late summer-early fall. Prefers partial shade - in more sun the soil should be moist.

Panicum virgatum 'Dallas Blue' One of at least four blue-foliaged cultivars of Switchgrass, it has the widest blades of foliage as compared to 'Heavy Metal', "Cloud Nine' and 'Prairie Sky.' This new one has the same great powder blue foliage as some of the best Panicums but as a bonus you get gigantic football sized flower heads which turn pink in August and stay pink well into winter. It grows six to eight feet in height. A sturdy grass for winter interest. Makes a great backdrop for red daylilies or yellow coneflowers. Full sun.

Tiarella 'Black Snowflake' Common Name: Foamflower. A Terra Nova introduction, this foamflower has glossy deeply cut foliage. The leaves are extremely dark when new and mature to a crisp green with a dark center. Spreads to 12". The light pink bloom, in April/May tops the 30 cm. tall plant. This plant was featured in Fine Gardening in March 2001. Does well in part sun to deep shade.

Lysimachia 'Geisha' Common name: Gooseneck Loosestrife. A variegated form of an old favorite and one that is also somewhat tamer. The gray-green leaves have irregular creamy-white margins. Terminal wands of white flowers arch gracefully above the foliage in mid summer, all in the same direction. Best growth occurs in moist, well-drained soils in sun to part shade. Dry soil will slow growth, while wet soil will encourage spread. Shallow rooted, 'Geisha' is easy to remove if it spreads further than desired, or it may be planted within a root barrier.

- By Kathy Riley

It is not news that the World Wide Web is becoming a pre-eminent place to find information on almost any subject. That is especially true for the gardener because any web site can be easily illustrated profusely in color. What follows is a list of sites that may be a bit off of the beaten path but that are all interesting and informative.

www.bulb.com The Netherlands Bulb Information site. Information on the culture of hundreds of species of bulbs.

www.hostalibrary.org The hosta library. Color pictures of almost any Hosta cultivar you can name organized alphabetically. Also a great deal of other information related to hostas.

www.oldhousegardens.com Information and offerings for heirloom varieties of summer bulbs including Dahlias and Elephant Ears, among many others.

www.nobleplants.com The net site of famous plantsman Michael Dirr. The site contains articles on woody plants, and plant lists, notes and handouts from Dirr's courses on woody plants. There are also offerings of cultivars that Dirr has developed or has found especially worthwhile. Good site.

www.sdfern.com The Fern Resource Hub. Everything you want to know about the hundreds of species of cultivated ferns: culture, propagation, and varieties.

www.msue.msu.edu/iac/gardlawn.html A Michigan State University site that features loads of information on the identification of common lawn weeds. Plenty of helpful color pictures.

- By Lou Horton

Rain, rain, go away, come again another day.... all the gardeners want to play!!!

At least I know I do. This spring is teasing us with the early "80-degree" days, but I have faith that as Master Gardeners, none of us were fooled into jumping the gun. There will be plenty of opportunities and sunshine once the potential for late frost truly does come to an end. Remember last year... I believe it was around Mother's Day when we had some pretty serious weather and my town even had "hail." My heart broke to see my garden take such a beating... but as always, it came back strong and is looking just fine this year. (Now I need to run and knock on wood for saying that - shame on me!) Speaking of wood... anyone wishing to build a cold frame still has time to do so. The Internet is a terrific place to find plans and see various options that will work best in your yard. A cold frame can last for many years and is one way to out-smart Mother Nature and avoid frost and hail damage. Now, on to some other ways of getting into the garden.

Harden off those bedding plants...
Hardening off is a critical step for all plants raised indoors as well as those that we might receive through mail order. Even some of the plants you buy from the nurseries and garden centers should be given a chance to get acclimated to their new home. If plants are prepared properly, they will remain strong and healthy, but if you move these tender young plants straight out into cold biting winds or hot, dry conditions, your losses may be dramatic.

There are different methods that will work to accomplish a successful transition.

The first would be the use of that newly constructed cold frame! See, already it is coming in handy. -- Place the plants in a cold frame a week or two before planting into their permanent garden home. Close the top of the frame in the evening and on cold days, otherwise ventilate freely. If frost threatens, you may want to consider covering the cold frame with additional insulating material or possibly even take the plants back indoors again. Remember, our zone 5 climate can have extreme ups and downs and you should never assume that one safeguard is sufficient.

Don't have that cold frame built yet? Well, try using a "cloche." A cloche is typically seen as a somewhat large bell shaped glass jar. These portable greenhouses have been recorded back as far as the 18th century and were believed to have originated in France. Popular television gardening shows and some magazines have brought about a new awareness of these handy little devices. Their revival is being seen in home gardens both for the practical use of protection as well as decoration. Plastic types are available as well. (The good old plastic gallon milk jug with the bottom cut out... even has a built in ventilation option of unscrewing the cap!) Keep in mind that ventilation is a key factor. The sun can be very hot even on a bitterly cold day and the temperature inside a closed cloche can damage the young plants just as much as frost.

Last, but not least, if you don't have either of these two, just group the trays or pots together in a sheltered spot outside and cover them with a horticultural fleece, plastic floating cloche, or even a bed sheet. Just be sure to keep a close eye on your plants and especially the weather and bring them inside if you are at all uncertain of their safety.

Sleeves on a tree?
Not a bad idea if you will be using a lawn mower or weed trimmer close to the bark!

Put a sleeved protector at the base of young (even older) tree trunks before you begin your weekly yard work. You can purchase corrugated plastic guards at garden stores and invest a small amount of money that will pay off in a healthy tree. Bark damage from even small injuries can cause major problems for trees.

Who ever thought a "pinch" could really grow an inch...
Okay, so maybe it isn't really a case of growing an inch, but a good pinching can help new annuals develop better. I know it sounds like a sin to go to the nursery, struggle over which flat of petunias looks the best... buy them, get them home... THEN... pinch off all the flowers!!! But have faith; it really makes a big difference. By removing all the flowers and buds, you will be encouraging the plant to become fuller, stronger and the future flowering will be more profuse.

A reminder too... as you purchase those new annuals, pay attention to the variety names. Petunias, marigolds, geraniums and other bedding plants come in a confusing number of varieties. Make a note in your garden journal of the ones you bought that you really liked and then next year that will narrow down and simplify your selection process and you will know what to expect.

That is music to gardeners' ears. Bees are essential in any garden. Protect them. Invite them in. Value them. Without these great pollinators, we would have no gardens to cherish. Attract them by planting colorful, fragrant, nectar-rich plants... they are drawn in particular to contrasting colors, yellows, and anything on the violet end of the spectrum. (Avoid trumpet or tubular shapes though, as they will avoid them even if the color is right.)

And do remember to safeguard the bees when using pesticides. Never use an insecticide on plants while they are in bloom, whether fruit trees, flowering shrubs, or veggies. Wait until the petals have fallen and you are assured that the bees have moved on to new nectar and pollen territories! If you must spray before blossoms are spent, then do so in the evening or early morning when bees are not active. The use of "Bt" (Bacillus thuringiensis) or insecticidal soap is a better alternative since both are harmless to bees.

A toad can eat a load if not mowed on the road to your yard...
Sorry, I got carried away ~~ But toads are yet another biological control that we might not think about when it comes to pests in the garden. Toads are among the most efficient insect eaters. The down side is that they do not discriminate and may consume just as many beneficials as pests. But if you have too many bad bugs bugging you... try to get toads to hop in to help. Once you attract them to your garden, they will need water and shelter. Sink pans filled with rocks and water in the soil so they can reach... and no, the mosquitoes won't dare... the toads would eat them! And as for shelter, you can get fancy and buy a toad abode or you can simply place a broken flowerpot upside down in a shady spot... Mr. Toad will find either a suitable retreat.

Can't forget the birds...
Many birds are also wonderful insect eaters - so make them feel appreciated. Keep the feeders full, they like seed along with the "protein." Remove suet feeders when the temperature goes above 70 degrees as it could become rancid... (and messy). Keep the birdbath clean since they use it for both the bath and a source of drinking water...and be certain that you place feeders well out of reach of the roaming neighborhood cats and other predators.

Pull out the crayons and your very own coloring book...
While you wait for the last frost fears to end, why not plot out your flowerbeds coloring book style! Before buying and planting, play a bit on paper. Plan out your basic layout on the main sheet of paper and then by using tracing paper, try different overlays of both colors and textures. (Actually, colored pencils work better than crayons.) It can be a lot of fun and quite rewarding. Once you have a good idea of the colors you like, use the tracing paper for each month of the growing season and see how the colors come and go and where you need to make adjustments. Note the bloom times for your perennials and then the blossom colors of your annuals and bulbs. You may find it a great tool for reorganizing existing gardens and a great aid for developing new flowering beds.

Make your own seed tape...
Seed tapes are an easy way to plant a row of seeds with precision spacing. This is a valuable technique when you have a short supply of seeds, or each is very expensive. It provides for uniform spacing and avoids the need to thin out sprouting seedlings.

Simply put, seed tapes are just seeds fastened to some sort of thin biodegradable paper by an adhesive that itself is biodegradable. This allows for the plant roots to grow through the paper as the adhesive dissolves around the seed so as not to obstruct growth.

In a small pan, dissolve one tablespoon of cornstarch in one cup of cold water. Cook over a medium flame, stirring constantly to prevent the mixture from getting lumpy. Once it starts to boil and turns into a translucent gel-like mixture, remove it from the stove, and let it cool to room temperature.

Get some paper towels, leaving the sheets attached, and tear off a section of about five feet. Cut the length of the towels into long strips that are about 1/2 to 3/4 inches wide.

Refer to the seed package and determine the proper planting distance for this variety. You might want to gently label a corner of each tape with the name of the variety it will plant. This will avoid confusion later and help you to properly label your garden plantings.

Take the cooled cornstarch mixture and put a few spoonfuls into a small plastic bag. Work the gel mixture toward one corner of the bag, removing as much excess air as possible, and then seal the bag. Next you'll need to snip off the corner of the bag to create a pastry bag like tool, similar to those that bakers use to ice cakes. If you are doing more than one type of seed, think about the size of the cut you make in the bag first. Smaller seeds will only need a tiny speck of gel, while larger ones may need a bigger dab. It's always possible to put a larger notch in the corner of the bag if you need a bigger opening, so start with your small seeds first.

At this point it's a simple matter of dabbing on the gel at the right spacing (use a ruler and pre-mark lightly with a pencil) and putting the seed in each dab. If your seeds are very small, you may want to put the seed into the cornstarch gel mixture (after it's cooled) before even placing it into the bag. Then you can mix them together and seed the tape by simply dabbing in the right spots.

One creative use of seed tapes is to plant them in patterns. This would allow you to precisely determine where various flowers or foliage will grow in relation to each other. Think how your loved one would like their name in flowers! Or how about your street address spelled out in daisies?! The possibilities are endless.

Stoke up the BBQ after a long day of gardening...
What does BBQ-ing have to do with gardening? Plenty! What better way to end the day than to toss some burgers or steaks on the grill and sit back to admire your hard work? No dishes to do, no hot kitchen to feel trapped in... and oh how good everything tastes when cooked outdoors. Here are just a few thoughts on the subject to ponder.

Build a permanent grill in your backyard... not too close to the flowers though. The choice of location is important. You not only want to stay clear of the flowers, but most importantly, keep a good distance from the house. Smoke can quickly stream through open doors and windows, leaving an odor or even smoke soot that remains on walls and furniture. Look for a quiet corner of the landscape that can be fairly accessible to the kitchen. Bricks or stone can make for interesting design options. When choosing brick, make sure they have been fired at a high temperature. As for stone, Sandstone is an excellent choice because it withstands heat well. If using other stone that may be prone to disintegrate from excessive heat, line the firebox with brick first. A built-in barbecue can make a nice addition to any backyard.

Be earth friendly... ignite charcoal without lighter fluid. Punch holes around the lower edge of a coffee can (2 pound capacity), and then remove the bottom (the top is already off). Set the "sleeve" in the center of the grill and place a layer of crumpled newspaper inside. Fill the rest of the can with charcoal and light the paper through the punched holes. The can will act as a flue to draw flame up through the charcoal. When the coals are aglow, lift the sleeve with tongs, leaving the hot coals behind.

- By Joyce Ernst

If you have an event you want everyone to know about, please contact Deb McCullough. I need the info one week before material is due in the office.

May 18, Cantigny
What Are Your Gardening Questions? Visitors Center, 9 a.m.

May 18 & 19, Chicago Botanical Gardens
American Rhododendron Society Show & Sale and Glenview Northshore African Violet Show

May 19, Morton Arboretum
Step by Step Gardening Series: Protecting Your Plants from Diseases, 1-2 p.m.

May 25 & 26, Chicago Botanical Gardens
Northern Illinois Hosta Society Exhibit & Sale and Northshore Iris & Daylily Society Iris Show & Sale

May 25, The Growing Place, Aurora
Patio & Deck Planting, 9:30 a.m.

June 1, The Growing Place
Beginning Roses, 10 a.m.
Beginning Water Gardening, 1 p.m.

June 8, The Growing Place
Success with Modern Roses, 10 a.m.
Container Water Gardening, 1 p.m.
Small Yard Design Basics, 9:30 a.m. (Aurora)

June 8, Platt Hill Nursery
Container Gardening, 10 a.m.

June 1 & 8, Cantigny
Garden Photography and Your PC (2-part series) 9:30 a.m.

June 9, Garfield Farm Museum
Prairie Walk, 9 a.m. – noon.

June 9, Morton Arboretum
Step-by-Step Gardening Series: Roses in the Garden, 1-2 p.m.

June 15, Platt Hill Nursery
Landscaping with Trees & Shrubs for Spring & Summer Interest, 10 a.m.

June 15, The Growing Place
Gardeners Festival, Garden talks, displays, art, music, refreshments. 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

June 16, Chicago Botanical Gardens
Rose Society Show & Sale. Noon-5 p.m.

June 20, Cantigny
Twilight Garden Walk, 6:30 pm

June 21, Cantigny
Summer Solstice Celebration in the Idea Garden, 2 p.m. – 8 p.m.

June 21, The Growing Place, Aurora
Evening in the Garden, 6-8 p.m.

June 22, Platt Hill Nursery
Ornamental Grasses, 10 a.m.

June 22, The Growing Place
Perennial Garden Design, 9:30 am (Aurora)
Roses in the Landscape, 10 am (Naperville)

June 22 & 23, Morton Arboretum
Prairie Heritage Days, 1-3:30 p.m. (All Ages)

June 25, Cantigny
Controlling Pests in the Lawn & Garden, 6:30 pm

June 26, Cantigny
An Evening in the Rose Garden, 6:30 pm

June 29, Cantigny
How to Divide Perennials, 9:30 am

June 29, Platt Hill Nursery
Easy Care Roses, 10 am

Many of these events require advance registration and/or fees. For more information or directions to these locations, call:

Cantigny Park/Gardens, Winfield.
630-668-5161

Chicago Botanic Gardens, Glencoe.
847-835-5440

Garfield Farm Museum, LaFox.
630-584-8485

The Growing Place, Naperville
630-355-4000

Morton Arboretum, Lisle.
630-719-2400, www.mortonarb.org

Platt Hill Nursery, Bloomingdale
630-529-9394

- By Deb McCullough

"The Garden Thymes" is the official newsletter for DuPage area MG's. If you misplace your copy, it can be found at our DuPage County Extension website. From time to time, you may have something you would like to share with fellow MG's or perhaps include an article of your own. We would love to hear from you!! Keep in mind the deadlines below for submissions. As always, your comments and suggestions are most welcome.

The deadlines for all articles to be submitted and for all volunteer hours forms are:

Issue #4 – June 28
Issue #5 – August 30
Issue #6 – October 31

IMPORTANT MG DATES

May 11
MG Help Desk – Planters Palette
MG Help Desk – Villa Park Men's Garden Club Plant Sale

May 16
Butterfly Garden 'Find-out' Meeting

May 18
MG Help Desk – Planters Palette

June 5
MG Insect Class at Cantigny

June 15
MG Help Desk – The Growing Place

June 20
Gardeners Gathering