Happy New Year!

One of the major projects I've been working on as Coordinator for the NE Region MG program is developing a MG reporting database. I am very happy with how quickly we are moving on this and want you to know that we are testing a beta version right now. Like anything that is new, there will be bugs to work out and adjustments to make. The program looks great-- we find it intuitive and easy to navigate. For those of you who enjoy using the internet, our database will allow you to log on from home to enter your volunteer and continuing education reports. We believe this will make record-keeping much more efficient for you and for us. Our goal is to implement this program in spring. A training session will be held prior to its launch date. More information will be announced soon!

Welcome MG On-line Trainees! ...We are very excited to announce we have accepted 5 new MG trainees into the DuPage MG program. They are: Carl Giessel from Wheaton, Bob Mangan from Wheaton, Tracey Nardi from Lisle, Tsue Ostermann from Elmhurst and Bonnie Prokop from Addison. They are taking the MG course over the web and will be starting their 1^st class in mid January. To help them feel part of our group right away, we had an orientation/welcome/kickoff class on January 11^th. Also, special thanks to veteran MGs Beth Corrigan, Beverly DePhillips, Bill Jegen, Julie Moore and Carol Westcoat who agreed to serve as their mentors.

MG Office Manual ... Next time you are in the office to answer the help-line, please be sure and read through the new and improved MG Office Manual. This is where you can find "hot topics", and learn about the current office procedures. With the new Northeast Region Customer Database, it becomes even more important to get the caller's name, full address, and if possible, email. It is also important to complete the back of the help line form. Joan will be able to enter the phone call topics, making it possible to search the database. We will be able to learn the types of frequently asked questions or target specific audiences for upcoming programs.

MG Library ... Sarah has completed an updated catalog of our Master Gardener Library. We will be looking for additional resources to supplement our collection. If you have any favorite references you would like to see in the office, please let Sarah know. We are also interested in any general suggestions for the office. We want you to have all the tools you need to help us better serve our clients.

New Reference Books ... We have 2 new additions to our MG library:

• The Photographic Atlas of Entomology and Guide to Insect Indentification
• Photographic Atlas of Botany and Guide to Plant Identification

Be sure to look them over the next time you are scheduled in the office.

MG Name/Address Photo Directory... We hope you like our new directory. We know it is hard with such a large group to remember names and faces...especially when all of you work on so many different projects. We hope you find this helps. Please note there was a printing error on page 12. Two names were not included; we have reprinted a corrected page 12 and included it with this mailing. Please toss out the old page 12 and replace it with this new sheet.

Upcoming gardening classes...We are pleased to announce our winter and spring gardening classes. These classes are being advertised to the public and we have included a copy of our brochure. Please take a moment to read about these offerings. You will note there are some changes this year. Our class materials will be improved by using color printing; advanced registration is required; in some cases, the start times have changed. Due to increased costs, we have increased our fees.

Because you do so much for us, we are enclosing 3 discount coupons just for you. We hope you sign up for some classes!

Worm Composting* February 9, 2006 6:45-8:30 p.m. $10

Learn how to recycle food scraps indoors all year long by starting your own worm bin. Worm composting is great for kids of all ages.
Instructor: Ron Wolford, Educator Urban Horticulture and Environment

Indoor Plants & Air Quality* February 21, 2006 12:45-2:30 p.m. $10

Learn about the types of plants that can be used to improve indoor air quality, their care and maintenance.
Instructor: Duane Friend, Educator Natural Resources Management

Home Lawns: Conquer the Problems!
February 22 and March 1, 2006 6:45-8:30 p.m. $20

The grass doesn't have to be greener on the other side. Find out how to grow a healthy lawn. Topics include proper watering, fertilizing, dealing with drought, grubs, weeds, thatch and more. This in-depth series will give you practical advice on home lawn care. This is a two-part class and a Lawn Care notebook is included.
Instructor: Susan Grupp, Horticulture Educator, DuPage County

Dwarf & Unusual Landscape Conifers*March 7, 2006 12:45-2:30 p.m. $10

Come learn about all the different styles, colors, shapes and sizes this diverse group of woody ornamentals offer to our landscape.
Instructor: Martha Smith, Horticulture Educator

Growing and Cooking Healthy with Herbs
March 21, 2006 and April 4, 2006 6:45-8:00 p.m. $20

In this 2-part series, learn about growing herbs, how to incorporate them in your landscape and how to use herbs in cooking healthy, tasty foods.
Instructors: Susan Grupp, Horticulture Educator, DuPage County.
Barb Farner, Nutrition and Wellness Educator

Summer Flowering Bulbs*
April 18, 2006 12:45-2:30 p.m. $10
or
April 20,2006 6:45-8:30 p.m. $10

Expand your garden pallet with summer-blooming bulbs like asiatic lilies, oriental lilies and crocosmia.
Instructor: Jim Schmidt, Extension Specialist Home Horticulture/4-H

Uncommon, Unusual and Underrated Landscape Plants*
May 2, 2006 12:45-2:30 p.m. $10

Tired of burning bushes and ash trees? Try something different like a Fothergilla or Hepticodium. Learn how to add interest to your landscape with unusual plants.
Instructor: Chris Hilgert, Horticulture Educator

Designing and Growing Beautiful Container Gardens
May 4, 2006 6:45-8:30 p.m. $20

Learn how to create charming gardens for pots, troughs and window boxes by using flowers and foliage plants to create attractive combinations. Plant selection, simple design considerations and the proper planting and maintenance will be discussed to help you succeed. Fee includes 3 foliage plants suitable for outdoor containers.
Instructor: Susan Grupp, Horticulture Educator, DuPage County

Shade Gardening*
May 16, 2006 12:45-2:30 p.m. $10
or
May 18, 2006 6:45-8:30 p.m. $10

Learn about the many different trees, shrubs, flowers, vegetables and grasses that have adapted to shade conditions. You'll also hear about special growing techniques for success.
Instructor: David Robson, Horticulture Educator

*Telenet Class

The lawn care, herb and container gardening classes are taught by on-site instructors

I'm looking out my kitchen window on what will possibly be the coldest day this December; will we reach below zero temperatures this evening? As cold as it is, I'm thinking about this year's gardens and enjoying the winter landscape. We had fresh snow last night and it is sparkling in the bright mid-day sun. The sun is low at this time of year and is casting long, interesting shadows on the matte finish of the snow. Bright red berries hang from American Cranberrybush, Viburnum trilobum, and contrast vividly against the snow. The berries reliably last until early spring. One year I was entertained by a flock of cedar waxwings that spent two days in late winter hanging from my Viburnums until all of the berries were eaten for the seeds inside them. And ornamental grasses that only complemented more showy plants last winter now take the stage.

The wind is tossing tan Miscanthus plumes – tall ones like 'Silver Feather' (effective since last August) and 'Sarabande' and shorter ones like 'Gracillimus'. My Molinia does not hold its six-foot seed heads over winter, but its leaves are a handsome golden mound. Calamagrostis stands very upright and Pennisetum arches over gracefully. The Pennisetum has been attracting birds all winter as juncos pull down the seed heads for food. Shorter prairie grasses are no longer effective since they are buried by the snow, but taller ones can show red-brown tones.

I purposely plant some of these grasses for the winter season but other plants work as well. The almost black leaves and seedpods of Baptisia australis are very handsome now. If you grow the Blue False Indigo see if you don't agree with me – don't cut it down until the spring. My Baptisia leucantha is also handsome with an umbrella-shaped form but its flowers have never become pollinated and it has never developed seedpods. Sedum "Autumn Joy', Rudbeckia 'Goldsturm' and Echinacea are other plants that can work well above the snow.

I grow a few evergreens that are notable from my viewpoint at the window. My Oregon Hollygrape presents a dark mass against the snow. It's glossy dark green leaves become purplish in the winter and are so good looking that I use them as gift cards on my Christmas gifts to others. When this shrub flowers in the spring, it can have the purple winter leaves and new dark green leaves seen against clusters of yellow flowers. I also see a soft blue False Cypress 'Boulevard' next to the window. This 'dwarf' has now reached a height of eight feet and I have some concerns about its location, but I admire it too much to consider removing it.

I reflect on some border renovations and perennial divisions that I did not get to last season. Those chores are not now visible under the snow, so those thoughts are shuttled to the 'hold' file of my thoughts and I continue to enjoy the view.

- by Donald Obuch

Several weeks ago I promised your editors to write my impressions of the state conference of Master Gardeners in Collinsville. I've changed my mind–it's a senior's privilege–and am writing about another recent experience. Hopefully, the many attending Master Gardeners from DuPage will share their experiences if you didn't have the chance to go.

Since then, however, I've taken one of my now annual trips along one of the national historic trails. This year I followed the suggested auto route for the "Overmountain Victory National Historic Trail". It is one of a dozen such trails, and I've driven the auto route for many of them, stopping at certified historic sights, talking with the "locals" and taking lots of pictures.

Perhaps the most famous of these historic trails is that of Lewis and Clark, whose bicentennial celebration is underway. Maybe some of you have stopped at Wood River (near Collinsville) to visit the museum that is at the starting point of Lewis and Clark's "Corps of Discovery" as their exploration is called. They were two of America's first botanists, bringing back specimens of many new plants for America's "first" Master Gardener, Thomas Jefferson. But that's a whole different story.

The Overmountain Victory National Historic Trail commemorates an even earlier venture: the Revolutionary War. The trail follows the route of some "Overmountain" militia who rallied together to defeat the British Army in the Carolina hill country. The patriots assembled in Abingdon, VA, and Elkin, NC, coming together in Morganton, NC, and marching to Kings Mountain, SC, where they soundly defeated the left flank of Cornwallis' British forces. That's the thumbnail version of the trail and its history.

What's interesting to me is the opportunity to study the culture of a time and place associated with the trial. Before I go, I spend weeks reading history and guide books. Along the way, I'll pick up more information from the brochures of the sites along the trail; but also I get more insights from the people who live there and the volunteer docents who are passionate about their subject–much like we Master Gardeners.

One such site along the trail is Rocky Mount State Historic Site. It is a restored farmstead of one of the Overmountain people, who came over the mountains from the eastern colonies, found relative independence from colonial rule. It was their independent agrarian way of life that was threatened by the British forces intent on laying waste to their farms and villages. The outbuilding pictured below was used for storing crops for the winter. Most of the crops had been harvested by the time I visited in early October, thus the idle wheelbarrow.

Rocky Mount, TN, State Historic Site

As I said earlier, I document my trip with pictures and journal entries of what I experience. Often I must wait till the slides are developed (I'm still not into this 'digital' thing) before I can provide the details.

One of the details that draw my interest is the flora along the way. Not only do I visit many of the gardens and arboretums and take a bunch of pictures; but as I drive along the trail's auto route, I've been known to pull over when a roadside flower catches my eye. You'd best not be following too close when I'm on one of my "trail rides"! I'll also pick up some books about the native plants of the area. One of my favorites is Weeds of the West. When the pictures come back and I haven't been able to identify all the flowers, shrubs or trees, I've got a ready reference to help me. On some wintry day in the coming months, I'll spend some time identifying all the pictures I've taken, put the catalog and journal together and be ready to share (bore!) my relatives and friends with my latest venture along the dusty trail!

- by Ron Ory

Aaaah, winter! Garden catalogs, a cup of something steaming to drink, a cozy chair...and the smells of soup or stew or chili on the stove. Winter's air is fresh and cold, but it lacks the scents of herbs growing in the sun, the same herbs now dried and flavoring that soup or stew or chili.

One of the most strongly scented and flavorful of the summer herbs is, of course, basil, or, rather, the basils, since there are so many that a whole, varied herb patch could be created just with members of the Ocimum basilicum "family". Leaves range from large, smooth and bright green (the familiar sweet basil) to crinkled, citrus-scented, bronzy or deep purple. Stems (square, because basil is of the mint family) may be green or purple; plants from six inches tall to four times that height.

Basils need lots of strong sun to bring out their best flavor, though as with most herbs, no fertilizer is needed. Basil does require consistent water which, held in by a layer of mulch, will keep it in good form all summer. The leaves should be harvested in the morning, as soon as the dew is gone. The small flowers, white or often pink on the purple-leaved varieties, do attract bees, but should be removed as soon as they begin to appear in order to keep the leaves from becoming bitter, which they will do once the plant flowers.

The name "basil" comes from the Greek word for "king". The plant was considered the sacred herb of the gods and, in Italy, is a symbol of love. One of the few herbs that increases its flavor when cooked, it should not be added to dishes until they are nearly done.

Basil is easily grown from seed – try some of the more unusual kinds in your herb patch this year! But don't set them out too early – basil is very cold sensitive. Some varieties to try: "Globe", "Minette" or "Minimum" for an edging of six inch mounded plants; "Green Ruffles" or "Purple Ruffles" for their lettuce-like foliage; "Cinnamon" has the fragrance of its name, "Lime" and "Mrs. Burns Lemon" for citrus aromas; "Genovese" has a very spicy scent, good for pesto; "Queen of Siam" is a "Thai basil" with a spicy anise-clove flavor and purple stems and blooms.

Pesto is easy to make and keep, providing a marvelously "green"- tasting pasta sauce, as well as a flavoring to perk up those winter soups and stews. Next summer, harvest lots of fresh basil, wash, pat dry, and remove any tough stems. Puree this in a food processor with just enough olive oil to make a paste. Freeze this paste by the tablespoon in ice cube trays covered with plastic wrap. When it is frozen, pop out the tablespoonfuls into a freezer bag, removing as much air as possible before storing. One of these added to a beef stew is marvelous. When you want to make finished pesto, take one or more of the basil cubes, thaw, and process with fresh garlic, Parmesan cheese and pine nuts, then add to hot pasta. Yum! This will make your kitchen fragrant of green herbs, even if your outdoor herb patch is not.

- by Sandy Lentz

Sleep tight and don't let the bedbugs bite"... If the reader is younger than, say, 50 years of age, they might not recognize this refrain from a popular admonition of parent to child at bedtime. As a matter of fact, most Americans are not really familiar with the bedbug at all. That is due to the fact that for most of the last 50 years or so, bedbugs have been relatively uncommon in the U.S. due to the use of DDT and its successor insecticides. That seems to be about to change. In places like New York City, bedbugs have invaded some of the most luxurious hotels and reports of bedbug infestations have increased fourfold in the last year. While it is true that some of the areas reporting infestations are situated along the East Coast, there are also reports of outbreaks in Kansas and Texas. According to pest control giant Orkin, reports of bedbug infestations have turned up in all but seven of the fifty states. Australia and Western Europe are also acknowledging infestations more severe in some cases than those in the U.S.

Bedbugs are insects classified as Arthropods. In the U.S., we are concerned with Cimex lectularius (the common bedbug). They are small (about ¼ inch in size or smaller) and relatively quick moving. All stages of bedbugs feed on blood – primarily human blood. In a pinch, the blood of some birds and other warm blooded creatures may do, however. Bedbugs require five nymphal stages from egg to adult that may take six to eight weeks to complete. Each stage requires a blood meal to allow it to molt into the next stage. An adult bedbug may live as long as eighteen months and have been known to go as long as a year between meals.

Why are bedbugs becoming a problem now after being almost eliminated in developed countries over the last fifty years? Experts cite a number of factors including a major increase in international travel and the bedbug's ability to hitch a ride in clothing, luggage, furniture, and especially in used bedding. The increased use of baits in pest management, rather than the widespread use of wide-spectrum insecticides may have allowed the bedbug to increase in numbers and locations. There may also be resistance to some insecticides. The fact that some of the most effective bedbug insecticides are now banned may also play a part.

Signs of a bedbug infestation may include the presence of blood droplets on bed linens, the presence of small welts from the bites often located in the waist area, arms and shoulders. Bedbugs tend to be nocturnal but may be active during the day in some situations. Allergic reactions to the bites may result in large inflamed areas around bites and there is some reason to believe that allergens associated with bedbugs may cause asthmatic attacks. Apparently, however, no credible evidence presently exists that bedbugs carry disease.

Diagnosis and treatment of bedbugs may be difficult. They are able to creep into amazingly small places including mattress tufts and buttons, under mattress handles and along the piping on the upper and lower edges of the mattress. The box springs should also be carefully examined and it may be necessary to remove the netting covering the underside to do so. Use a strong flashlight when looking for the insects and placement of glue boards often used against mice in proximity to the mattress or box springs may yield samples. All bites may not be caused by bedbugs so a sample of the culprit is helpful. All bed linen should be washed in hot water as well as any clothing that might harbor the bedbugs or their eggs. Pyrethroids and Insect Growth Regulators are often the chemicals used in controlling infestations. It should not be assumed that the only bedbug hiding places are associated with the bed and bed linen. A good tool is a vacuum with good suction which can be used to clean any crevices as well as the mattress and box springs.

Good preventative measures would include close inspection of luggage and clothing when returning from trips overseas. The purchase of used beds, pillows and bed quilts should be avoided in particular.

Sources include the following:

• University of Maine Cooperative Extension
• Department of Medical Entomology, Commonwealth of Australia
• Harvard School of Public Health
• USA Today December 2-4 2005
• Phillip Nixon, Extension Specialist, Ornamental and Household Insects, University of Illinois Extension

- by Lou Horton

Right Plant, Right Place
By Nicola Ferguson

Fireside Books (April 2005)
ISBN: 0743276507 $30.00

This is the updated edition of Nicola's Ferguson's 20 year old classic of the same name. I found that this book really does help you select the right plant for the right place, saving myself from some mistakes in buying a lovely plant that turns out ill-suited to the spot I have picked for it. So if you do not already have this book in your home library, you might want to make sure you are buying the most current edition because there are plenty of new introductions covered as well as old favorites.

The book is divided into 29 different plant grouping lists. This includes two "new" lists not in the original edition – "Black" plants and perennials with a long flowering period (I found this section to be particularly useful). The other 27 lists cover just about any type of garden situation you can encounter as well as plants with specific characteristics; from different soil types, to sun vs. shade, fragrance, different leaf colors and autumn foliage. We are talking over 1400 entries that include flowering perennials, woodies, trees and more.

Each page has color photos of the plants and gives extensive information on type of plant and zones, flowering time, flower color, height and a description of the plant with any other important characteristics. It also provides cross-references to other lists in the book that would apply to the plant. I have found that this helps make it easy to plan for the specific needs of an area of my garden without a lot of page flipping and the photos help me picture how various plants would look together. For the price, this is a comprehensive reference book that I think any gardener would find extremely useful.

- by Debbye Simpson

Newsletter Deadlines for 2006...

"The Garden Thymes" is the official newsletter for DuPage area MG's. If you misplace your copy, it can be found at our DuPage County Extension website. From time to time, you may have something you would like to share with fellow MG's or perhaps include an article of your own. We would love to hear from you!! As always, your comments and suggestions are most welcome.

• Issue #2- February 28, 2006
• Issue #3- April 28, 2006
• Issue #4- June 30, 2006
• Issue #5- August 31, 2006
• Issue #6- October 27, 2006