Helpful hints for the notoriously cheap

Dear Frugal Gardener,
There is a squirrel that makes the rounds twice daily through my many patio pots and flower boxes, digging up plants and ruining them! Before contemplating murder, I happened to have some flea powder for dogs and tried sprinkling it on the soil of all the pots. The smell seems to keep the squirrel away! I couldn't find any ingredients on the flea powder container, but it does smell a lot like Sevin. I made sure I didn't get any powder on the flowers or leaves, so I won't kill any bees. What do you think of my solution?

–Squirrel Hater

Dear Squirrel Hater,
At first I thought you were using a product contrary to the labeling, which would be illegal. But I then realized you are just making sure your plants are free of fleas, right? And it works! No fleas! The fact that it's stinky enough to repel squirrels too, is just an added benefit.

You are not the only one battling squirrels. Many of us have also contemplated murder, but I'm not naming names. Creating barriers is more of an accepted method of squirrel management.

If you are planting a pot with seeds, cover the pot with chicken wire and curve it over the edges of the pot to hold it securely. The seeds will easily grow right through the wire and the plants will hide all that wire. Planting whole plants is a little trickier, but you can cut a hole large enough in the chicken wire to accommodate the plant. I use tin snips and wire cutters.

Unlike powders and sprays that wash away with watering and rain, the chicken wire will last about two summers before it rusts away. And since I've never actually seen any chicken wire that was labeled, we must not be misusing it. Let the chickens sue us.

– FG

Fall is the season for pumpkins, winter squash and gourds. Maurice Ogutu, a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator based in Chicago, recommends consumers follow these guidelines.

Halloween pumpkins are harvested in September through October. Sometimes harvesting may start in mid August to early September which requires good handling and storage of the pumpkin fruit before selling to the customers in late October. The first frost occurs in early to mid October in northern parts of the state when the pumpkin fruits are still curing outside in the fields. The growers in pick-your-own pumpkin operations use this method to ensure that pumpkins are well cured in the field before being picked up by their customers. Some growers practising conventional pumpkin marketing systems where the fruit is picked, washed, dried and sold to customers on weight or per fruit basis, also use this method. It is important to note that pumpkin fruits can tolerate light frost that kill the vines only, but more fruit loss can occur if the frost caused injury on the fruit surface as the damaged areas act as avenues for fungal and bacterial fruit rot pathogens. Remove pumpkins from the fields before the hard freeze (when the night temperatures are less than 27 degrees (F) or else you may risk losing 80-90 percent of the fruits.

The pumpkin fruit is harvested when it is uniformly orange and the rind is hard. Green immature fruits may ripen during the curing process but not after the vines are killed by frost. The vines need to be dry when fruits are mature. Handle the fruit with care to avoid cuts and bruises. Harvest the fruit by cutting it off the vine with a sharp knife or a pair of looping shears leaving three to six inches of the stem attached to the fruit. This makes the fruit look more attractive and less likely to be attacked by fruit rot pathogens at the point of stem attachment. Do not carry the pumpkin fruit using the fruit stems because the fruit is very heavy and may lead to detachment of the fruit stem. Wash the fruit with soapy water containing one part of chlorine bleach to ten parts of water to remove the soil and kill the pathogens on the surface of the fruit. Make sure the fruits are well dried before setting in a shed to cure.

Pumpkin fruits are cured at 80-85°F and 80-85 percent relative humidity for 10 days. This is done to prolong the post harvest life of the pumpkin fruit because during this process the fruit skin hardens, wounds heal and immature fruit ripens. After curing, the fruits can be sold to the customers and the remaining fruits stored.

Store the fruits in a cool dry place. Put the fruits on a single layer on wooden pallets with enough space in between the fruits (the fruits should not touch each other) and do not place them on a concrete floor. Improve the air circulation within the storage area by letting in cool air at night and use a fan to circulate air during daytime. Do not let in warm air from outside into the storage during the daytime. The optimal storage condition is 50-55°F temperature and relative humidity of 50-70 percent. The relative humidity is very important within the 50-70 percent range because high humidity leads to settling of moisture on fruit surfaces, which increases decay of the fruit and low relative humidity may cause dehydration of the fruit. Under these conditions you can keep the fruits for about two to three months. Store the fruits away from apples since apples produce ethylene gas as they ripen, which speeds up the ripening process in pumpkins, hence decreasing shelf life. Check the fruits regularly and remove the ones that are rotten because if not removed, they will spread the pathogens in the storage area.

Winter squash such as Butternut, Acorn, Hubbard, and other types are mature when the skin (rind) are hard and cannot be punctured by thumbnails. The mature fruit has a dull and dry skin compared to shiny, smooth skin of immature fruits. Remove stem completely from Hubbard types, and if desired, leave only one inch long stump on the fruit. Stems longer than one inch tend to puncture adjacent fruits when in transit or storage. Butternut, Hubbard and other squash types do not need be cured as the benefits are less compared to pumpkins, while curing is very detrimental in Acorn types as it leads to decline in quality. Acorn types have the shortest storage time of 5-8 weeks at 50°F and relative humidity of 50-75 percent. Butternut, Turban, and Buttercup types can be stored at the same temperature and relative humidity as Acorn types but have a longer storage time of 2-3 months. The Hubbard types can be stored much longer than the rest (5-6 months) at 50-55°F and relative humidity of 70-75 percent. Winter squash should be marketed or used immediately when taken out of storage to avoid development of fruit rot diseases.

Gourds are of different flower colors (yellow, white), shapes and sizes. They should be harvested before frost when fruit is mature. As gourds mature, stems turn brown and become dry. Don't use "thumbnail" test on gourds as it can cause a dent on the shell of the unripe gourd and lower its quality. Harvest the fruit by using a sharp knife or shears to cut the stem from the vine and leaving a few inches of the stem attached to the fruit. Do not handle the gourd by its stem since the stem can easily detach from the fruit and lower its decorative value. If the fruit is dirty, wash in soapy water to remove soil and rinse in clean water with household bleach. One part to 10 parts water kills soil-borne pathogens. Then dry each fruit with a soft cloth. Spread the fruits so that they do not touch each other in shelves lined with newspapers in a well-aerated shed. Turn the gourds daily and change damp newspapers for 1 week. The outer skin will harden this time and surface color develops. The gourds need to be wiped with a damp cloth soaked in household disinfectant and placed in a warm, dry dark area for 3-4 weeks for further curing. The decorative gourd can stay in its natural state for 3-4 months and as long as six months with a protective coat of paint or wax on the surface.

Illinois-grown winter squash is available September through November. Winter squash, especially the deep orange-fleshed varieties, are an excellent source of beta-carotene that the body uses to make vitamin A. Vitamin A is essential for healthy skin, vision, bone development and maintenance. Winter squash is also a good source of fiber, potassium, niacin, iron and vitamin C and it is low in calories.

Acorn squash is good for baking and goes well with sweet, nutty or spice stuffing. Cooked butternut squash, with its fine-grained flesh is perfect for pureeing. After baking spaghetti squash, lift out the sweet, mild tasting, tender, crunchy stands and serve like pasta.

Delicata is a pretty little squash, sometimes known as the sweet potato squash. It is a long cylindrical shape and cream colored with green stripes. Sweet Dumpling has the same coloration only round and fluted and makes a nice single serving.

To cook winter squash, place unpeeled pieces cut sides down on a shallow baking dish with a little water and bake in a 350 degree F over for 30 minutes or longer. Check for doneness by piercing with a fork or skewer. When tender, remove from the oven and allow the pieces to cool. Spoon out the soft flesh and mash with a fork or process in a blender or food processor. Use with any recipe calling for cooked mashed or pureed squash. Or microwave the squash pieces on high for 15 minutes or longer.

Small acorn squash and spaghetti squash can be pierced in several places with a long-tined fork or metal skewer and baked whole. Be sure to thoroughly pierce the shell or the squash will burst during cooking. Place the squash on a baking dish and bake for one and one half to two hours at 325 degrees F. The squash is done when it gives a bit with a slight squeeze.

Winter squash also makes a good pie. Most people cannot tell whether pumpkin or squash is used in a squash pie. Many cooks prefer winter squash to pumpkin because it makes a non-fibrous pie.

- by Sandra Mason, Extension Educator, Horticulture & Environment, University of Illinois Extension

Many people move their houseplants outdoors for the summer to rejuvenate them after a long winter. But take care-it's time to bring them back indoors, according to Susan Grupp, a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator based in DuPage County. "Night temperatures are dropping and most houseplants are from tropical areas and will be injured or killed by cold temperatures and frost," she noted. "Houseplants need time to adjust to the lower light level in your home. Since this move will be a shock to them, it is best to introduce them to this change, gradually."

To start, Grupp recommends placing them on a covered porch or indoors for just a few hours and return them outside for the remainder of the day. Each day, increase the time in lower light. After 10-14 days, they should be better equipped to handle the permanent move indoors.

"While you are acclimating them to new growing conditions, you should check them carefully," she said. "Look for insect and disease problems. Stunted or distorted growth may be a symptom of a problem. If you find sticky leaves, look for sap-feeding insects such as aphids or scale. These insects excrete honeydew that forms a sticky deposit on leaves."

The plant's soil should be checked too for pill bugs, millipedes and ants, as all may be present. Although they cause no harm to houseplants, these pests can become a nuisance in the home.

"Washing leaves with plain water and repotting plants with fresh potting mix are good steps to take when returning houseplants to their indoor home for the upcoming cold season," Grupp said.

It still may be summer, but signs of fall are in the air and with these signs the promise of brilliant fall foliage, noted Ron Wolford, a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator based in Chicago. And University of Illinois Extension has a web site to aid those desiring to see the best examples of fall color.

"The days are noticeably shorter, cooler temperatures are on the way and the kids will be back in school," he said. "The green leaves of summer will soon give way to a brilliant autumn palette of golds, yellows, reds, oranges and browns. Did you know that the yellows and oranges of fall, on maples and ashes, have been there all summer?"

The colors, Wolford explained, were hidden by chlorophyll which makes leaves green.

"As days grow shorter, chlorophyll production is gradually reduced allowing the yellows and oranges to appear," he said. "Red and purple fall colors appear in the fall as sugars in the leaves breakdown in bright light. Sunny bright days will produce the most brilliant reds and purples."

The most vivid fall foliage occurs when days are sunny and cool combined with cool nights, above freezing temperatures and normal rainfall. Since these conditions vary from year to year, it is difficult to predict fall color.

Wolford said the Chicago area is blessed with places like Morton Arboretum, the Chicago Botanic Garden and the Cook County Forest Preserve to view colorful fall foliage. Nearby Wisconsin and Michigan offer many scenic fall foliage drives.

"Families might want to plan a weekend excursion this October to view fall's colorful extravaganza," he said.

To check out fall foliage drives, updates and festivals, go to U of I Extension's "The Miracle of Fall" web site at www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/fallcolor or call Wolford at (773) 233-0476.

Fall's arrival also signals the return of a pest that invades homes, seeking warm lodgings for the winter, said Sharon Yiesla, a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator based in Lake County.

"We may start to notice these bugs in our homes," said Yiesla. "They are boxelders and the adult boxelder bugs are flattened, oval insects, about a half-inch long. They are dark brown to black in color, with red markings on their backs. The nymphs (young) are smaller than the adults and are bright red, with small, partially formed wings. These small wings look like dark shoulder pads."

During the growing season, boxelder bugs feed primarily on the boxelder tree (Acer negundo), sucking sap from the leaves and seeds. The damage done to trees is relatively minor, but boxelder bugs are annoying as a household pest.

"In the fall, as temperatures begin to drop, the insects migrate to homes," said Yiesla. "They can often be found clustered on the outside of the house, especially on the south and west sides, where the sun warms the building.

"Eventually they crawl into cracks and crevices and enter the home. These insects do no real damage in the home, they are merely a nuisance. They do not feed or reproduce inside the home; they enter only for protection against winter."

Yielsa noted that the easiest method of control is removal using a vacuum cleaner. The bugs should be swept up and the vacuum cleaner bag should be discarded. Do not crush the insects as they can leave a red stain behind. Caulk cracks and crevices around windows and doors to limit entry into the home.

Wilmette Park District Senior Center
Container Gardening
April 1, 2005 " 1 p.m.
3000 Glenview Rd.
Wilmette, IL 60091
Contact Theresa Jones at (847) 818-2901 for details.

Clarendon Hills Library
Closing the Garden Down
October 25, 2004 " 7:30 p.m.
7 N. Prospect Ave.
Clarendon Hills, IL 60514
Contact Theresa Jones at (847) 818-2901 for details.

The year's conference is now a memory, but the knowledge gained from the fascinating array of workshops and seminars will inspire us for months to come. The November issue of HORT Happenings will include full coverage of the conference, along with pictures and more highlights.

On Wednesday, September 1, 27 Master Gardeners attended a fascinating tour of Geimers Greenhouses, Inc. Mike Geimer and Don Brennan, Geimers' plant buyer, conducted the tour which was very informative. They told us about some of the newest plants, trees and bushes that are currently available and very graciously answered all of our questions. The plants and bushes were beautifully displayed in interesting groups throughout the nursery and there were lovely views of water flowing, patio furniture and even a covered bridge that made the entire tour very interesting and enjoyable.

After the tour, we were all invited to enjoy coffee and Mike gave everyone a gift of a hand clipper. I'm sure that we will remember Geimers' hospitality.

After the tour, we had lunch at The Village Tavern in Long Grove. Many of the Unclub members ordered their juicy hamburgers which seemed to be one the restaurant's specialties. For dessert, we all shared a surprise chocolate birthday cake for John Petlicki (special gift from Myrna). What a delightful way to end a fantastic day.

Our next meeting will be held on Wednesday, October 6 at 12 noon at our old winter "hangout," The Egg Factory, located directly across from Randhurst Shopping Center. When you clean up and divide your plants for fall in the next few weeks, save a few for our October luncheon and we will have a fall plant swap. It will be fun to see what variety of plants everyone will come up with. Please don't forget to call the Master Gardener office (847-818-2901) at least several days before if you come so that I can make reservations for you. See you there!!

- by Carol Bean