Article taken from http://www.midwestliving.com

Landscaping with Fruit Trees and Shrubs

If you don't have room for full sized fruit trees, check out the new miniatures and dwarfs now available. Some grow just four or five feet tall and are perfect for growing in large pots or whiskey barrels.

Rhubarb is so pretty it's a shame to relegate it to the vegetable garden. Tuck it into the flower bed or border. It's especially nice under-planted with purple-leaved ajuga or another low-growing ground cover.

Strawberries make an excellent edging plant as well as a good ground cover. Plant them in long rows, one or two plants deep, along the edges of flower beds and borders. Or use them on a sunny slope or any other area where you want a pretty ground cover. They cover themselves with white flowers in spring and the leaves turn a rich russet in fall.

Blueberry and currant bushes are pretty enough to use as decorative shrubs. Plant a whole hedge of them to assure plenty of fruit.

Grapevines are beautiful plants. Try growing two of them up over an arbor. When you're not harvesting grapes, you can use the leaves, either green or tinged by autumn color, to decoratively line plates and platters. Top with salads or cheeses.

Raspberries are expensive to buy at the supermarket, but a snap to grow at home. If you're concerned about having too many all at once, plant the ever-bearing types, which will produce from midsummer to frost. Also, they do well in light to medium shade, so you can plant them in an out-of-the-way corner of the yard.

Try growing short vining-type vegetables up trellises along the back of a flower border. Melons, cucumbers, and zucchini can all be trained to grow vertically; this means fewer fungal disease problems.

Landscaping with Vegetables

Get creative with your vegetable garden design. Consider creating a series of decorative raised beds with wood-chip or gravel lined paths between. Check out photos of historic French gardens for inspiration. They're efficient and beautiful.

Plant vegetables with their looks as well as flavors in mind. Alternate, for example, pretty purple cabbages with snowy white cauliflowers in a row. Or experiment with planting in blocks and clusters rather than rows for a more decorative effect.

Many vegetables lend themselves beautifully to containers. Lettuces in various colors are gorgeous in window boxes. Patio-type tomatoes are ideal in large pots. Hot peppers ripen to rich colors that are attractive when mixed in with annual flowers such as marigolds and vinca.

Tomatoes probably grow better in flower beds than they do in the traditional vegetable garden. That's because they should be moved to a different spot each year to prevent disease, and space is often limited in a vegetable patch. Also, tomatoes do better when isolated from other tomato plants because disease can't hop as easily from plant to plant.

Lettuces make a great edging plant, especially those that are deep reds and purples. Plant in a row along the front of a bed or border.

Don't let a little shade deter you from planting vegetables. Fairly shade-tolerant veggies include beets, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, garlic, leaf lettuce, spinach, turnips, radishes, and beans.

Seek out vegetables in bold colors to interplant among the flowers. Swiss chard, for example, is available in a rainbow of colors. Or try brilliant yellow sweet peppers.

Pole beans have attractive heart-shaped leaves that are fairly decorative. They're good for planting on arbors, along fences, or on any trellis.

Some mustards and kales have gorgeous fall color and are ideal for tucking into containers and borders for color late in the year. Try Osaka Purple mustard greens or one of the red or purple kales.

Brighten salads with edible flowers. Grow nasturtiums and violas and toss a few petals along with your lettuces into a salad.

Landscaping with Herbs

Rosemary is among the most decorative of herbs. It's often available in cleverly shaped topiary. Grow it in pots or plant directly in the ground.

Herbs that once were plain green now are available in many different colors and variations that make them an excellent foliage plant to use in beds and borders, as well as containers. Purple Ruffles basil and the Tricolor sage are two outstanding examples.

Chives are not only good snipped into salads and over potatoes, they also have nice green foliage and pretty, pink, ball-like flowers. They are especially effective when planted in rows as an edging.

Thyme is one of the best ground covers for hot, sunny, dry areas. It forms a dense mat and flowers in the spring. It's perfect for planting in among pavers or flagstones and is fragrant when stepped upon.

Other herbs deserve more use as a ground cover. Oregano spreads readily, as does prostrate rosemary, and chamomile.

While it's tempting to put all your herbs together in one bed, they do nicely when mixed in among flowers. The glossy green leaves of parsley and coriander, for example, are a simple foil to most flowers.

Herbs are also good mixed in with flowers in indoor arrangements. Basil, tarragon, sages, chives, and many others are all perfectly suited to the vase.

Harvesting Herbs for Drying

By mid-summer, most herbs have grown sufficiently to provide an ample supply for fresh use. In order not to waste any of this readily available bounty, July is a good time to harvest herbs for drying so that they can be used for that added touch in the winter stew.

The harvesting process is simple. Select plants that are just ready to bloom – this is when they have their best flavor. Wash the plants with a garden hose the day before you plan to harvest them. This removes the majority of debris such as dirt and insects that might be clinging to the plants.

The next day, after the moisture has dried from the plants, but before the sun's heat begins to naturally release the oils from them, cut the stems using either scissors or pruning shears. You can remove one half to two thirds of the plant's stem. This pruning process will stimulate the plant to put forth new growth, thereby allowing you to repeat this harvest process later in the summer.

Bunch the cut stalks together, about a dozen stalks at a time depending on thickness, and tie them with string or a rubber band. Hang them upside-down in a warm and relatively dark location with good air circulation. Rafters of a garage work well.

The leaves are dry when they easily crumble between your fingers, usually in one to two weeks depending on the herb. Store the dry crumbled herbs in tightly closed containers, preferably in the dark on your pantry shelf or in a dark colored bottle.

They are now ready to use at any time to add zip and zest to your everyday cooking.

Edible flowers have entered into a new age of popularity. Pansies, daylilies and squash blossoms now appear nightly at popular restaurants around the country. Basil florets, chive blossoms and coriander umbels adorn herbal luncheon plates. Colorful assorted petals now garnish salads of trendy mixed greens. The general population is being conditioned to accept the idea that flowers are edible. In general, this trend is a healthy one for specialty producers of herbs and flowers, but this emerging awareness holds a hint of danger. While many flowers and plants are tasty, nutritious and even therapeutic, there are, among the flora of the world, plants that are not good to be eaten and others which may actually be deadly. It then becomes crucial that responsible herbalists and restauranteurs stress the importance of proper identification of edible flowers and strict avoidance of the unknown, no matter how succulent, beautiful or beguiling.

Common names can sometimes contribute to the confusion, since the same name may apply to a tasty edible and a deadly poisonous plant. Botanical nomenclature is one tool to help avoid mistakes within the industry, but many citizens in the general population are resistant, if not openly hostile, toward Latin binomials. The next best procedure is to stress the need to know exactly which plants are safe and edible and to avoid anything with unknown properties. There is both a need and a responsibility within the herb industry to provide enough education to the public so that they can recognize and bypass dangerous plants.

A second note of caution involves taking care not to eat or recommend routine consumption of commercial flowers, due to possible pesticide and fertilizer issues. Bedding plants may be routinely sprayed to keep pests in the greenhouse during their production. Many are also fertilized with overhead watering that may leave fertilizer residue on the leaves, buds, and flowers. Most cut flowers today are grown in countries around the world that may be subject to less stringent pesticide regulations than the U.S., Canada, the Netherlands and other developed nations. Even locally grown flowers may have residues on them that it might be best to avoid. Using only flowers grown specifically for edible usage, by those you trust or those which have been growing under your care for an extended period is the best policy.

Following is a list of some flowering plants that should be AVOIDED when sampling edible flowers. Some of these are well known for their dangerous nature, while others may come as comparative surprises. It is by no means a complete list, as there are thousands of plant species whose consumption may have negative consequences. Just as caution is the rule when eating wild mushrooms, remember to consume only those flowers and plants where there is a high level of certainty as to their safety. NEVER EVER sample a small amount of a flower or plant "just to see." Like so many other activities, eating flowers can be a wonderful experience if done intelligently and responsibly using adequate information.

Flowering Plants To Be Avoided When Eating

1. Colchicum autumnale Autumn Crocus
2. Convallaria majalis Lily-of-the-Valley
3. Gloriosa superba Glory Lily
4. Ornithogalum umbellatum Star-of-Bethlehem
5. Amaryllis species Amaryllis
6. Narcissus species Jonquil, Daffodil
7. Humulus Iupulus Hops
8. Fagopyrum sagittatum Buckwheat
9. Mirabilis jalapa Four O'Clock
10. Agrostemma githago Corn Cockle
11. Saponaria officinalis Bouncing Bet, Soapwort
12. Aconitum species Wolfsbane, Monkshood
13. Anemone species Windflower
14. Clematis species Leather flower, Virgin's Bower
15. Delphinium species Larkspur, Delphinium
16. Helleborus niger Christmas Rose
17. Ranunculus species Buttercup, Crowfoot
18. Dicentra species Bleeding Heart, Dutchman's Breeches
19. Hydrangea species Hydrangea
20. Laburnum anagyroides Golden Chain Tree
21. Lathyrus species Sweet Pea, Chick Pea
22. Lupinus species Lupine
23. Wisteria species Wisteria
24. Linum ustatissimum Flax
25. Ruta graveolens Rue
26. Euphorbia species Spurge
27. Ricinus communis Castor bean
28. Aesculus species Buckeye, Horse Chestnut
29. Eucalyptus species Eucalyptus
30. Cicuta maculata Water Hemlock, Spotted Cowbane
31. Conium maculatum Poison Hemlock (The hemlock tree, Tsuga species, is an unrelated plant which is not poisonous at all.)
32. Daucus Carota Wild Carrot, Queen Anne's Lace
33. Pastinaca sativa Wild Parsnip
34. Kalmia Iatifolia Mountain Laurel
35. Phododendron species Rhododendron, Azalea
36. Catharanthus roseus (Vinca rosea) Madagascar Periwinkle
37. Nerium oleander Oleander
38. Asclepias species Milkweed
39. Ipomoea tricolor Morning Glory
40. Lantana camara Lantana
41. Atropa balladonna Deadly Nightshade
42. Datura sramonium Jimsonweed
43. Solanum species Nightshade
44. Digitalis purpurea Foxglove
45. Lonicera japonica Japanese Honeysuckle
46. Lobelia species Cardinal Flower, Indian Tobacco
47. Ageratina altissima (Eupatorium rugosum) White Snakeroot
48. Daphne mezreum Daphne
49. Anthurium andraenum Anthurium
50. Helotropium arborescens Heliotrope

Mr. Wolford's source on these toxic plants: Professor Charles E. Voigt, Vegetable Crops, University of Illinois.

- by Ron Wolford, Extension Educator, Urban Horticulture & Environment

Apply controls for grubs in the lawn. Eggs are laid and hatching starts in August. Water the insecticide in with at least 1/2 inch of water.

Prune hedges so they are narrower on top than they are at the base.

Peppers, tomatoes, squash, cucumbers and beans will drop their blossoms (without setting fruit) when temperatures rise above 90 degrees. With cooler temperatures, the vegetables will resume normal fruit set.

- by Ron Wolford, Extension Educator, Horticulture, University of Illinois Extension

On May 17 at 10 a.m., Mary Moisand and I did a container gardening demonstration for the Bellwood Senior Center. We were delighted to see 14 women, one with a grandchild, Timmy, and 'one' gentleman. Mary and I each came with one pot already planted: one with annuals and one with herbs. Then we each made up two more pots with different herbs and annuals during which time we explained about soil, drainage, fertilizer, design, color scheme and other related container gardening information. We then donated and raffled off the containers of plants. Timmy pulled the tickets out of an empty pot and made six ladies very happy. We also raffled the rest of the plants and everyone went home feeling good. The ladies were really receptive, asked many questions and were happy to have a different type of presentation. Both Mary and I went home feeling good about the success of the workshop. I don't know about Mary, but when I got home I took a little nap.

- by Joan Jeske

• Do you eagerly wait at the mailbox each day to see what seed or garden catalogs are in the mail?
• Do you go to the garden nursery to buy one flat of flowers and come home with a full trunk?
• Do you only have to look at a plant to buy it?
• Do you own more than one pruning tool?
• Do you find yourself wandering aimlessly through a store only to find yourself in the garden department?
• Do you have more than five garden books or magazines?
• Do you take photographs of your garden EVERY year?
• Do you buy seeds and forget to plant them?
• Do you talk to your plants?
• Do you own more than one pair of shoes or gloves just for gardening?
• Do you have the motto "more is better" for plants but "less is better" for grass?
• Do you search the yellow pages for nurseries when on vacation in a new city?
• Do you go out to work in your garden even when the ground is frozen?
• Do you know the common AND Latin names of your plants?
• Do you talk to strangers and offer suggestions at garden nurseries?
• Are you on a first name basis to garden nursery staff?
• Do you grow plants not hardy in our zone 5 just to see one season's bloom?

If you answered, "yes" to nine or more of the above questions – congratulations, you are a garden goddess/god.

If you answered, "yes" to five or less of the above questions – you aren't trying hard enough!

- by Colleen Graudins

The Unclub members had planned to have a pot luck luncheon in Ann Hasbach's garden on June 2 but rain just poured down a few hours before they met so they all decided to meet at The Egg Factory instead and luckily they had the back room open for the usual 12 noon meeting.

The next Unclub Meeting was discussed by the members at the luncheon and it was decided by all to try again to visit Ann's lovely garden but, instead of the pot luck, everyone would go together to a nearby restaurant called Embers which is located at the intersection of Roselle and Algonquin Roads.

The Unclub Meeting will be on Wednesday, July 7. Everyone can visit Ann's Garden between 11 and 11:30 am. At 12:15 pm, we will all leave together from Ann's home for Embers. I will reserve a table for all of us which will most likely be in the raised sectionin the backof the restaurant.

I will reserve our table several days prior to our Unclub Meeting. If you would like to join the members for lunch PLEASE call Eileen at 847-818-2901 to let us know you'll be there.

- by Carol Bean

Gil Solarz is recovering from recent surgery and we're all wishing him a speedy recovery. We miss him over at Friendship Park Conservatory and will count the days until his return.