During winter, for many of us, the only connection with a beautiful, green world is through our houseplants. Wait a minute! Is there really such a thing as a houseplant? Not really. Except for a few highly hybridized species, most of the plants in our homes are of tropical or subtropical origin and normally grow in the shade of a dense canopy of trees. That is the reason they survive in our homes. The light levels in east, west, and north rooms are as low or lower than a jungle floor. The short days of December and January, plus curtains and shades, can bring the light level to almost zero, even for shade loving plants. The good news is that most houseplants can withstand these levels for the duration of winter.

However, forced air heat, low humidity and temperatures are something else. For some subtropicals, like gardenias, fuschias and ivy (hedera species), our rooms may be too warm. If we turn back our thermostats below 65 degrees for the night, it may be a bit too cool for areca palms, African violets, and phthos. Except for most cacti and succulents, the real stress for houseplants is low winter humidity. Dry air provides an ideal environment for spider mites, thrips, scale insects and many other pests to flourish. On extremely cold days, humidity levels can drop to 10 percent in a heated house. Humidity levels need to be near 60 to 80 percent to discourage these pests. Trying to maintain levels above 30 to 35 percent during winter can damage our homes and encourage black molds to grow.

How can damage from pests be minimized? Chemical spraying indoors is not recommended. Research also shows that insecticidal soap is not much better than plain water for controlling mites. Small plants can be easily rinsed off in a kitchen sink. You can place a pot in a plastic bag and tie it tightly at the soil line, then plunge the plant, head down, into lukewarm water containing a squirt of dishwasher liquid. This only works with small plants. Spider mites on large plants can be controlled by weekly sponging of the leaves. If this is too tedious, the mites can be killed with very humid air, provided the affected plants can stand the high humidity. Water the plants well, and enclose them in a large, clear plastic bag. Leave the plant (in the tied bag) out of direct sunlight for 10 to 14 days. Another problem is with scale insects, which create a mess with their sticky and sugary droppings. Small infestations can be controlled by picking them off and washing the plant with a solution of soap and alcohol.

Springtails and fungus gnats rarely do harm to indoor plants. Springtails are little white creatures that jump on the soil when plants are watered. They feed on fungi, algae, and rotted material in the soil. Minimize them by letting the soil surface dry out before watering again. Fungus (humus) gnats, sometimes erroneously referred to as fruit flies, do not feed at all. However, their larvae do and if they can't find enough dead organic matter in the soil, they can do damage by feeding on fine hair roots of small plants. Yellow sticky traps attract adults, but only serve to indicate whether a problem exists. If you are trapping very few adults (3 to 5 per day), it means you have a very light infestation, and don't need to worry. However, if you are trapping many (i.e., 10 to 20 per day), this indicates a heavy infestation – you may need to drench the soil with BT for gnats to kill the larvae.

Finally, do not fertilize or repot plants at this time. Let them rest. They don't have the energy to grow. Wait until spring, when days are longer, the furnace is winding down, and indoor and outdoor humidity equalize. On the first rainy, warm spring day (60 degrees plus), take your plants outside and let nature shower them off. From that point on, their recuperation from winter will seem miraculous.

- Luci Barnas – Horticulture Chairman

from http://www.chicagoflower.com

This show is a MUST for all Master Gardeners – you won't want to miss it! The show is held on the lakefront at Navy Pier. Either Ohio Street or Illinois Avenue will take you straight to it. Illinois and Ohio are both one-way streets heading east towards the Pier.

Special parking is available on weekends. The Chicago Flower and Garden Show has made special arrangements for you to park in alternative parking lots surrounding Navy Pier. Posted signs and parking officials will be directing show-goers. Trolley and/or shuttle service is provided from official Show alternate lots.

The CTA has also added special express buses from Union Station and the Ogilvie Transportation Center (Northwestern Station). Look for bus #124. These buses run every 15 minutes.

On weekends there are free shuttle buses running to and from the Monroe Street Garage: Saturday, 9:30 am–8:30 pm; Sunday, 9:30 am–6:30 pm. Get off the shuttles at Navy Pier Entrance Two. From there you'll be able to walk directly into the show.

Here are also four CTA bus lines that will take you to the front of Navy Pier: #29 State Street; #65 Grand/Navy Pier; #66 Chicago Avenue; #124 Navy Pier Express from Canal Street, Union Station and the Ogilvie Transportation Center. Metra offers daily convenient service downtown. On weekends there are special family fares.

Show Dates
Sat. " Mar. 13 – Sun. " Mar. 21

Show Hours
Mon. thru Sat. " 10am-8pm
Sun " 10am-6pm

Tickets
· Adults: Weekdays - $11.00
Weekends - $13.00
· Children: Weekdays - $5.00
Weekends - $6.00

Tickets can be purchased at the Show entrance. No reservations are required. Cash only for individual tickets, no checks or credit cards. For more information on tickets or group rates, call (313) 222-5086.

The Chicago Flower & Garden Show is handicapped accessible, and complimentary wheelchair rental is available at the information desk.

Inner Gardening, written by Diane Dreher (also the author of The Tao of Inner Peace) is a combination of self-help, gardening how-to's, and garden history. The book introduces the reader to the purpose of the book using a quote by Voltaire, from Candide (1759), "We must cultivate our own gardens." From this premise the heart of the book unfolds.

The book is a first person narrative by the author who lives in Northern California and it is laid out in a monthly format. Each chapter contains basically four sections: Garden Growth, Gardening as a Spiritual Practice, Garden Tasks, and Garden Reflection. The author presents various ways to nurture and grow a beautiful garden and then asks that we apply these same actions to our personal lives.

There are many interesting historical anecdotes on various plants. I especially enjoyed the history on roses, found in the month of May in the Garden Growth section. "The roses in our gardens today date back thousands of years. No other flower has acquired so may legends, developed so much religious symbols, or inspired so many poems." The text continues with a detailed history of the plant and provides a better understanding of how the rose came to such prominence in our society.

The section Gardening as a Spiritual Practice draws specific comparisons to our gardening tasks and our personal evolution. "In our gardens, August is a time of endings and beginnings. This month as we harvest our tomatoes, beans, and squash, many of us are planting cool-weather crops: lettuce, spinach, and beets. But wherever your garden grows, late summer is a good time to plant seeds of renewal and cultivate healthy new habits in your life." The author goes on to suggest various exercises to help us better understand ourselves and find ways to improve our lives.

The Garden Tasks section serves more as a reminder of common garden tasks rather than providing innovative how-to's. To the more seasoned gardener, the tasks can be found in just about any basic gardening book, although it never hurts to review these lists. To the beginner gardener, the information is too brief to be truly helpful. The reminders did prompt me to review other sources and expand my list of things-to-do.

Garden Reflections attempts to do just that: Look back on the month, take inventory of our physical and spiritual tasks, and remember to appreciate their significance. "The seasons of our garden year affirm the underlying process of creative growth in which we cultivate our gardens and our lives."

Diane Dreher has included many lovely passages and quotes, interesting historical plant facts and some ideas for improving our gardens and our lives. Generally, I liked the book but found the inspiration to cultivate my garden or myself a little repetitive. I have read many other books that have provided greater insights for both. It did, however lightly, remind me of many of the joys my garden provides: peaceful escapism, appreciation for the little things, and the ability to ignite that pure connection to the power and beauty of nature. Anything that can do that is worth a read.

- Review by Nancy Braasch

What vegetable grows wild along railroad tracks in Illinois? Except for the occasional "wild" tomato plant that appears in my compost pile, asparagus is one of the few traditional vegetables found in the wild. Asparagus is a hardy, durable perennial and a well prepared garden patch will last 20 to 30 years. I have a patch that is about 60 years old and is still producing. Asparagus is one of the earliest vegetables to harvest in the spring and has many characteristics that make it worth growing. For instance, asparagus spears are less expensive and generally of better quality when home grown. It is also easy to grow and attractive. The ferny foliage is lovely as it turns from green to a golden yellow in fall. Plant mums in front of your asparagus patch ad you have a beautiful late season flower bed.

Asparagus should be planted as soon as the soil can be properly prepared in the spring. Usually asparagus is started from one-year-old crowns or plants. The crowns resemble octopus with their crown of buds and pencil sized roots radiating from the crown. Asparagus can be started from seed, but it will delay production a year.

Asparagus plants are naturally male or female plants. They can be purchased as female plants, male plants or predominately male plants. Male plants can be 3-5 times more productive than females. Males also do not produce seeds, which can become weedy.

Asparagus varieties to consider for Illinois include Mary Washington, Martha Washington, Waltham Washington and Jersey Centennial. However for higher yields, consider the male hybrids of Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight and Jersey Prince.

To plant asparagus, place crowns in a trench 12 to 18 inches wide and six inches deep. Crowns should be spaced 9 to 12 inches apart in the trench. Spread the roots outward with the buds of the crown facing up. Cover the crown with two inches of soil. As the stems lengthen through the season, fill the remaining portion of the trench with soil. This planting process gets the crown deeper into the soil without forcing the plant to push through six inches of soil all at once.

Asparagus should be fertilized in the spring for new plantings (first three years) and right after the last harvest in June or July for older plantings. Apply 10-10-10 or similar fertilizer at the rate of 2 to 2.5 pounds per 100 square feet or use compost or well rotted manure. Asparagus can be harvested the third year after planting crowns, but harvest for only a month the first time. After the third year, the spears can be harvested through May or June. To harvest, grasp five to eight inch long spears at the base and bend them toward the ground. The spear will snap where it is free of fiber. Spears may also be cut with a knife, but make sure not to damage any of the emerging spears. Quality deteriorates rapidly after harvesting so any asparagus that is not eaten immediately should be processed or refrigerated.

- by Sandra Mason, Unit Educator, Horticulture & Environment

No matter how tired I get at the end of a gardening season, I try to save some energy to plant my spring bulbs. Enviably, about this time of year, I start to realize that in just a short time my efforts will pay-off: a wonderful burst of color that marks the spring season- tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and crocuses.

My love for gardening started when a neighbor shared some of her plants with me. My love for bulbs developed in a similar way. A friend managed an apartment complex. Each year, they had a huge tulip display at the entrance of the complex. After the blooms began to fade, the workmen would completely dig up the bulbs, and plant annuals in their place. One year, she talked them into putting the bulbs in a pile on the side if the utility building. She invited her friends to come take them. Not one to turn down free plants, I filled the back of my car, and planted the bulbs that fall. To my delight, the following spring brought a colorful display of tulips. Each year, I added new bulbs, based on color, style and bloom time, to complement the display. A few years ago we moved. While I took many plant cuttings with me, I left the tulips and daffodils for my old neighbors to enjoy.

In the new house, I started my spring bulb planning from scratch. My goal: to have blooms as long as possible until the perennials come up, or annuals could be planted. So in picking the bulbs I looked first at bloom time, then height and then color. For example, along my drive is a pink theme. The bed is on a slight hill. In the lowest area in the front I planted Gregii Toronto, a short tulip (8 - 12 inches) with multiple petals in dark pink, which blooms early. Grape hyacinths are planted in between. In a staggered row in front of my spring blossoming bushes, three other types of tulips bloom in mid spring, starting with Triumph Barcelona (18-22 inches), hot pink, Sweet Wendy (18-20 inches) light pink with green stripes, and Ollioules, (20-24 inches) light pink with dark pink stripes. Two more varieties bloom in late spring: Menton (26-28 inches), coral pink with orange glow, and Viridiflora "Greenland" (26-30 inches'), another pink with green stripes. Just when one is slowing down, another is starting to bloom.

Across the front of the house is a berm 30 feet long and 10 feet wide. In front of the bushes are several rows of tulips in mixed bright colors- orange and yellows, some red that range from 18-24' in height that bloom from early to late spring. On either side a large clumps of daffodils and Quail (16-18') and smaller Narcissus Tete Tete (10'). At the base is a solid row of grape hyacinths. (The rabbits eat my regular hyacinths.) Connecting the front to the drive is an arched section, with a serviceberry tree. Around the base of the tree, are several varieties of orange tulips: Gregii Dreamboat (8-14'), dark orange, early, Prince Irene (12-14'), dark orange, with yellow and pink stripes, early and Blushing Lady (28-30), a combination of hot pink and orange, which blooms late.

In total, there are over 300 bulbs planted in the front and along the drive. Last year, I was late in getting new bulbs in. It was a cold drizzly day and the man across the street came over. He lives directly across from us, and he and his wife get the full view of my flower bed. He said they look forward to the display each year. His comments brought back memories of my own grandmother's tulip display along a stretch of fence in her front yard. And that makes it all worthwhile!

Tips for a successful spring display:

• Keep a journal. The spring season goes by fast. Log when the bulbs bloom so you know where to fill in the gaps.
• Put a color picture of the bulbs (either from the package or the catalog) in your journal. That way you can check your color scheme and variety.
• Decide on your new purchases during the planting season, not in the fall. I purchase most of my bulbs by mail order. Just as the spring bulbs begin, they send a catalog. It's a great way to see what might fill the gaps in color, height or bloom time.
• To keep the squirrels away, some people use chicken wire, which can be time consuming. I use a deer repellent. (Works on rabbits too). I spray the hole and the bulbs and then spray more on top after I filled the hole. I will repeat this every few days, depending on rain.
• If you want to grow tulips to use in planters or for centerpieces indoors, here's a great idea my cousin (another Master Gardener) taught me. Plant 2-3 tulip bulbs in a gallon container (left over from your purchases throughout the summer), and bury the entire pot in your vegetable garden. Cover with dirt, just like you were planting the bulbs in the ground. When you see the leaves starting to forge in the spring, you can bring the pots indoors or plant in outdoor planters. I have two large urns on my front porch, so I transplant about three containers into them. This allows us to enjoy at least three weeks of blooms before its time to plant my annuals.
• Another fun idea for the low maintenance gardener. Many gardening suppliers are now selling pre-chilled pre-sprouted bulbs. In late January, I purchased some paper whites at a local garden shop. I planted them in a shallow dish, put them in a cool part of my basement for a few weeks to root, and they on my dining room table- ready to give me fresh blossoms in a few weeks. They were a bargain at around $7 for a bag of 12. Some mail order catalogs now offer pre-sprouted bulbs for containers or in ground planting (after it thaws). They claim that the tulips will come back year-to-year. They are reasonable; ready to plant six packs are around $10 plus shipping. Also available in 12 and 24 packs.

- by Chris Johnston

Article taken from Garden Gate at www.GardenPlans.com

Labeling plants in the garden can be as important as the garden design itself. Labels are functional, but they also have to look nice so they don't become a distraction. Unfortunately, some of the best looking plant markers found in catalogs or at garden centers tend to be expensive. But with laminated photos and galvanized wire, Francis Fuhs of Iowa has come up with an idea for plant markers that look great and don't cost much money.

He takes photos of his plants in their most attractive stages (usually full bloom) and then cuts them down to credit card size. He then types the plant's common and scientific names onto a sticky label and affixes the label to the back of each photo. He laminates them to make them waterproof.

You can have them laminated at most copy centers. Cluster as many labeled photos together on a single sheet as you can. It costs about $1.50 per sheet. After they are laminated, you can cut them apart.

To turn these into markers, buy two feet of #12 galvanized wire for each label at your hardware store. Make a wire paperclip-kind of holder by wrapping two feet of wire once around a piece of wood approximately 11/2 inches in diameter. A shovel handle works pretty well. This marker is not only easy to remove from its holder, it also lasts indefinitely in all kinds of weather.

Your title of Master Gardener is only valid when you actively participate in the University of Illinois Extension Master Gardener programs. You should not present yourself as a Master Gardener if you are not an active participant in the Extension Master Gardener Programs.

Here are a couple of points about counting volunteer time: Include your travel time when listing your volunteer time for various events or activities. And, count any time you spend working on projects at home.

This year's required hours are the same as last year – 30 hours of volunteer time plus 10 hours of on-going training. Report all of your hours, including on-going training. On-going training includes re-certification class, the mini-classes offered this spring, speaker's bureau training, gardeners gatherings, Focus On..., advanced training, Extension sponsored field trips, additional classes offered by Master Gardener Units, and the State Master Gardener Conference.

All Extension volunteers who work with children must go through a screening process. This is a standard process designed to reassure parents that volunteers have been screened. It serves to protect you as well.

• Plant onion sets in late March.
• Till vegetable beds. Never till the soil when wet. Try the soil squeeze test first. Take a handful of soil and squeeze, if soil forms a ball, let it dry for 2-3 days. If soil crumbles easily through your hand, it is ready to till.
• Clean up last year's debris in the vegetable garden to reduce the potential for disease.
• Plant potatoes as soon as soil can be worked in the spring. Buy certified disease free seed potatoes. Cut into sections. Each section should have one or two "eyes" (buds). Plant sections one foot apart and four inches deep.
• Sow lettuce, peas and radishes.
• Start cabbage, broccoli and Brussels sprouts seeds indoors in early March. They should be ready to transplant outside in 6-8 weeks.
• Start tomato and pepper plants indoors in mid-March. Transplant outdoors in mid to late May.
• Trim back Russian sage and butterfly bushes to 6-8 inches.

We had quite a nice size group at our February luncheon and a great time was had by all as always. Lucy brought along lots of great pictures of her vacation in Hawaii. If we can't escape to warmer climate, we can at least enjoy the pictures.

Our next luncheon will again be at the Egg Factory Restaurant and it will be on March 3 at our usual 12 noon. You won't want to miss this one because everyone will be bringing some of their extra seeds and we will have a "seed exchange". Also, if you have any extra seed catalogues, Ann Hasbach has a friend who needs them to cut the pictures out for a project.

PLEASE be sure to e-mail Carol Bean a few days prior to the meeting if you think you can come so she can reserve a seat for you in the private back room. We need a minimum number of people in order to get the room. You can reach her cjbean1@comcast.net. You may also call Eileen Witt at the Master Gardener office to RSVP (847-818-2901). See you there!!

- by Carol Bean