I was listening to the radio on my way home from work a few nights ago and heard that a strong cold front was headed our way with the potential of producing our first frost. This shocked me, as just that afternoon I was deadheading flowers in our Extension display gardens and thought we probably had at least 2-3 weeks of good weather ahead. The cold weather always seems to sneak up on me each year. It's a good reminder to complete some fall chores and planting before the really frosty weather hits.

Prepare to avoid frost damage. Our first frost usually occurs around mid-October. It is often followed by a few weeks of good growing weather. Protect tender veggies like tomatoes and peppers with layers of newspapers, blankets, tarps, sheets or floating row covers. Remove the coverings soon after sunrise. Vegetables like cabbage, broccoli, kale, collards and turnips can withstand light frosts and the frost will improve their flavor.

Remove plant debris from the garden after frost. If plants were not diseased, they can be dug into the soil. Leaving dead plants in the garden will provide a home for over wintering insects. Also add a 3 to 4 inch layer of other organic matter and dig in. Your garden will be ready for planting in the spring.

Fall is the best time to have your soil tested because the weather is more settled than in the spring and soil labs are not as busy. To prepare a soil sample, take a trowel and collect four to six dry, soil samples from different locations in your garden or lawn in a bucket. Spread the sample on newspaper and allow it to dry. Place about a cup of the dried sample in a sealed plastic bag. For a listing of local soil labs, call 773-233-0476.

Plant spring flowering bulbs now. Bulbs can be planted until the ground freezes. Squeeze bulb between your thumb and index finger. The bulb should be firm to the touch and not feel hollow. Plant the larger bulbs in groups of 5-12. Smaller bulbs should be planted in masses of 50 or more for a spectacular effect.

Lift tender summer bulbs such as dahlias, cannas, gladiolii and tuberous begonias after frost. Shake off the soil, let the bulb dry and store in a cool, dark place. Check throughout the winter for shriveling or rotting bulbs

Pick green tomatoes with no blemishes or soft spots. Wrap individually in newspaper and store in a dry place indoors. They should ripen in a few weeks.

Save tomato seeds from non-hybrid or heirloom varieties. Seeds from hybrids will not produce plants like themselves. Squeeze the seeds from ripe tomatoes into a small bowl. Let the seeds sit in their own juice for two to three days. Remove the pulp floating on top and drain most of the juice, leaving the seeds at the bottom of the bowl. Spread the seeds on a paper towel until dry. Store in a sealed container in a cool, dry place. Seed will remain viable for three to five years.

Continue to water evergreens as needed throughout the fall until the ground freezes. Evergreens lose moisture through their leaves during the winter.

Provide winter protection for roses. If using cones, don't cover the roses too early. Wait until temperatures have dropped into the teens for several nights. Remove foliage or plant debris especially with the disease blackspot prevalent this year. Prune the plant if needed to fit under the cone. Cut 3-4 one-inch holes around the top and bottom of the cone for ventilation. Mound soil around the base of the rose bush before covering with the cone. For very tender rose varieties, cut off the top of the cone and fill it full of straw for added protection. Weight down the top of the cone with a heavy stone or brick.

Overwinter climbing roses by removing them from trellises and laying the canes on the ground, being careful not to crack or break canes; cover with 5-6 inches of soil. Hold in place with wire pins or notched stakes. Cover the base of the climber with 10-12 inches of soil.

Wait until spring to cut back ornamental grasses. The seed heads and grasses will add interest to the winter landscape. Plus they will attract birds. Cut the foliage back to about 4-6 inches in the spring before new growth starts.

Continue to mow the lawn as long as grass is growing. For the last mowing lower the mowing height by a half-inch. This will prevent the grass from lying over.

Take the time over the next few weeks while the weather allows to prepare your lawn, flower beds and vegetable garden for the long, cold winter ahead.