I know--I know--we are all very anxious to get out and work in our yards and gardens but, we also know that there can still be some cold weather coming.

Several of you have asked if the "dead" stems/ branches, etc. should be removed now. The general rule for this is: as soon as you see new growth coming up through the grown, it is a good time to trim back the dead growth. Actually, the dead growth acts to protect the new growth from frost and cold—so don't be too anxious yet.

This is a great time to look around your yard and see what, if any, changes you would like to make. Someone asked me about dividing iris this time of the year. It has been said that if a plant blooms in the spring then divide it in the fall and if the plant blooms in the fall then divide it in the spring. But one of my favorite garden books states there are only a few exceptions to any plant being divided in the spring. Plants not suitable for spring division include fleshy rooted perennials such as peony, Oriental poppy, and Siberian iris, which are best divided in the autumn. The Siberian will tolerate spring division only with sufficient moisture. When dividing in the fall it should take place about a month before a killing frost.

It is also exciting to see what new plants have started to immerge from the ground. The Crocus is already popping up and the buds on bushes and trees are getting larger.

This time of the year is the ideal time to get your seeds potted for frost-tolerant vegetables. Cauliflower and other cold crops like Chinese cabbage and herbs are good ones to start with. Prepare for small fruit season by reading circulars. Update your garden diary. Cover and make ready the greenhouse and hotbeds. Sharpen garden tools. Locate source of equipment, fertilizers, and pesticides. Order seeds and plants.

Keep the bird feeders full, there's still more cold weather to come. Exchange information with friends who are also gardeners. Heavy pruning of trees should be completed while they are still dormant. Avoid pruning while new leaves are growing. Maple sugar time is here. Freezing nights and mild days make sap flow. Inspect fruit trees, birch, or any other tree with a past history of tent caterpillars. Look for the egg masses which appear as dark brown or grey collars encircle small twigs. Destroy by pruning or scratching off with thumbnail. Rake leaves, twigs and debris. While looking the area over pay close attention to the other plants you have.

Ornamental and native grasses left standing for winter should be cut down within a few inches of the ground before new growth starts. We have a lot of cutting to do when it comes to the grasses at our home. Some of ours are over 10 feet tall so we must take a little extra time in cutting them back.

I have noticed some brown spots on the leaves of our Holly bushes. At this time, it's probably winter damage. We should keep the dead leaves picked up when then they fall and fertilize and water the bush when it is time. The twigs will probably form new leaves, so don't trim them off unless they turn black.

Did you know that trees and shrubs are best planted or transplanted in the spring rather than the fall? These include butterfly bush, dogwood, Rose of Sharon, black gum, redbud, magnolia, tulip poplar, birch, ginkgo, hawthorn, hickory, and most oak. Be sure and examine trees and shrubs for winter injury. Prune all dead and weakened wood. Fertilize trees and shrubs if not done last fall.

If weeds occur in bulb beds, do not remove them by cultivation; pull them out by hand so bulbs and roots are not disturbed.

Kathy Hummel is going to be doing a 2-part article on "raised-bed vegetable gardens". So I will not be doing my regular article for next week. She will have the next two weeks. I am sure you will find this information very interesting.

Since this is the case I would like to review how we are to care for our Easter Lilies. If you are able to pick your own Easter Lilies, select one that is comprised of several buds of different sizes. That means it will bloom for a longer period of time. If your plant is wrapped in foil, holes should be punched in the bottom so that the excess water will drain, (be sure and not let the plant sit in the water—empty the saucer). The plant should receive water when the soil appears dry, but well before the plant begins to wilt. Try to keep your plant moderately cool, but avoid drafty locations and heat outlets. It will bloom better and last longer in a bright location, but out of direct sunlight. Remove blossoms as they start to close. After blooming, keep your Easter lily well watered and in a bright window. When the weather is favorable, remove from the pot and plant outdoors, two inches deeper than the soil level in the pot and away from other lily plants that may carry diseases. If the top dries down, remove it. A new shoot will appear at the base either this season or next spring. When it starts to grow, fertilize monthly. With luck you should have flowers again next fall. Mulch heavily to prevent winterkill since these plants have difficulty surviving our winters. Either way, you have nothing to loose. So, go ahead and try it.

Soil Testing Week

U of I, Coles County Extension Master Gardeners are having a Soil Testing Week March 30 to April 3. You can have soil samples from your lawn, vegetable garden or flower beds professionally analyzed for pH, Phosphorus and Potassium Organic matter levels. There will be a nominal fee of $7 per sample. Bring your sample(s) to the Coles County Extension Office between March 30 and noon on April 3. Master Gardeners will process your sample for professional laboratory analysis. Call the Extension Office at 345-7034 for more information or visit our website at: http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/coles/. Look under "Today's Feature" for a flyer with complete details.

If you have any horticulture questions, call the local U of I Extension office Monday through Friday at 345-7034. Volunteer Master Gardeners will be in the office on Wednesday mornings from 9 to 11 a.m.

This column is based on information and materials at the University of Illinois Extension office, located at 707 Windsor Road, Suite A., Charleston, 61920; phone 345-7034; or web site: www.extension.uiuc.edu/coles/