Hope all of you had a wonderful Christmas holiday. It came so fast this year –I am still decorating! (Not exactly) But I was really behind this year for sure. I am trying to keep track of the snows that we have had…Though they have not been very measurable as far as inches go.

I have heard from some of you that received some very special plants this year. Here are some ideas for taking care of a couple of them. The Amaryllis plant----if this is a first for you, you are probably thinking—how am I going to take care of it? This plant is a very showy one. The amaryllis is a tender bulb that can't survive outdoors even in the mildest of Midwestern winters. But it can be grown indoors to provide a dramatic show of color during dreary winter months.

The showy flowers range from crimson, scarlet and rose to lavender, white or bi-colored combinations. Although each plant may only produce one cluster of two to four blooms, individual blossoms can reach up to 8 inches in diameter at their peak. The flowers are borne on a tall, stout stem about 2 feet tall. If time is short and you want the plant to be in bloom in time for a certain holiday, buy one that is already in bud or just beginning to flower.

The blooms will last longer if you keep the plant in a cool location, around 65 degrees F. If kept in warmer environments, the flower stalks may become weak and require staking to support the weight of the blossoms. If you opt instead for an amaryllis bulb kit, you need to allow 6 to 8 weeks from planting to bloom.

Bulbs should be potted in containers that are only a little larger in diameter that the bulbs themselves. Be sure containers provide drainage so excess water can escape. Pour a layer of good quality potting soil mix into the bottom of the container, and then place the bulb so that the pointed end is facing up. Water thoroughly to establish good bulb-to-soil contact. Place in a sunny window in cool location, preferably 55-65 degrees F.

Sometimes the blooms get so large they need some extra support. After the flower fades, you can cut the flower stalk off but if you want to try getting it to bloom next year, and then leave the foliage. You see this will help reinvigorate the bulb so you will have plenty of blooms next year. During the non-blooming part of its life just treat it like an ordinary houseplant.

After the danger of frost is past in the spring, you can plunge the pot into the soil outdoors in an east-or-west facing location. Late in summer as the leaves begin to yellow, gradually cut back on watering until the leaves fade completely and the soil is dry. It's now time to dig the pot out of the ground and bring it back indoors. The bulb will be dormant and should be left in the pot and stored in a cool, dark location at about 45-55 degrees F.

Amaryllis do not require as much of a chilling period as do many other flowering bulbs, but they do require a period of cool, dry dormancy. After about two months of rest, water the soil and set the pot in a sunny window and resume normal care.

Another plant that is very popular this time of year is the Poinsettia. Some poinsettias are tropical; they must be protected from cold temperatures. You need to remove any protective sleeve from your plant. Place it in a bright sunny spot in the house, taking care to avoid drafty locations. So do not allow them to touch cold glass windowpanes. Keep your plant away from radiators and other heat sources. Poinsettias will do best in daytime temperatures of 65-70 degrees and night temps around 55 degrees. High temp tend to shorten the plant's life.

Proper watering is a must. Check the plant's soil daily. You might try sticking a new sharpened pencil into the soil. Stick the pencil in about half its length, and about 2 inches from the pot's rim. If the sharpened end comes out dry, water is needed. If it comes out wet, then the soil needs to be dried out. When watering, water till the water runs out the bottom. Wait a few minutes and water again. Pour excess water out of the saucer the pot is sitting upon after 10 minutes. Never let you plants sit in the water too long or root damage may result. Cool temps help to reduce transpiration-water loss from the plant. Setting the plant on the floor next to an outside wall at night will help stretch the blooming time. The Coles County Extension web site has excellent information about Poinsettias—you can find it on the home page at: http://coles.extension.uiuc.edu/

My Christmas—or should I say my Thanksgiving cactus did bloom and still is blooming. For those of you not aware of the fact, there is a Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus. You know there used to be a real difference between these two cultivars, but then again Thanksgiving and Christmas used to be two distinct holidays, not merely the bookends to a shopping season. Anyway, the one which blooms around Thanksgiving does have strongly toothed edges. In the 1800s it was crossed with S.russelliana, resulting in a hybrid, S x buckleyi, with more scalloped edges and a later bloom period, close to Christmas. Further hybridizing has blurred the distinction, and now there are more than 200 named cultivars, with bloom times that slide around Halloween to Super Bowl Sunday, depending on who their parents were. Personally, I don't care which it is just so it would bloom. I hope these suggestions help you to enjoy these beautiful plants.

I want to remind you to be sure and mark February 28, 2009 on your new calendars. The Coles County Extension Master Gardeners are planning a fun and interesting Saturday morning for residents in this area. The location is going to be at the new Lifespan Center. You are in for a real treat if you have not had a chance to get out there and see this beautiful building. I will fill you in on more in next week's column-----