Bulb Planting 101

Spring flowering bulbs are some of the most rewarding plants you can grow. And fall is the time to get them in the ground. All it takes is a little elbow grease and patience. Here are a few pointers to keep in mind when you head out into the garden this fall. These tips will work for any type of spring flowering bulb you plant.

If you have purchased your bulbs through a mail order source, open the box of bulbs as soon as it arrives. Inspect your order to be sure that all bulbs on the list are there and in good condition. They should be firm and mold free.

If you cannot plant right away keep the bulbs in a cool, dry place, such as a garage, or basement. Warmth and moisture will signal the bulbs to start growing. Check on them occasionally to be sure they aren't getting moldy or soft.

Spring flowering bulbs can be planted anytime in the fall after temperatures cool down, but before the ground freezes. Your bulbs need to establish strong root systems before winter sets in.

Plant bulbs in an area that drains well. Most bulbs need from 4 to 6 hours of sunlight each day, some varieties (Spanish bluebells and daffodils) are more shade tolerant than others. When planting under trees select shade tolerant varieties and site them at the drip line rather than right under the tree.

Try to find a place where the bulbs won't be disturbed later in the season and where it won't be a bother to allow the foliage to die back naturally after they flower. In addition, you can interplant other flowers to conceal the ripening foliage. Marigolds, coneflowers, salvia, Black-eyed Susans are a few of many possibilities.

Spring flowering bulbs appreciate well-drained, humus rich soils. Add a little compost to the bottom of the planting hole as well as some synthetic bulb fertilizer. Synthetic products are preferable to the traditional bone meal because it doesn't attract squirrels and rodents.

The rule of thumb is to plant bulbs at a depth that is 3 times their height. For example, if a daffodil bulb is approximately 2-inches tall, dig a hole 6-inches deep. Smaller bulbs such as miniature daffodils are generally planted 3- to 5-inches deep. You will want to plant the big ones like Allium gigantium 'Globemaster' 6- to 8-inches deep. Once covered with soil, a 2-inch thick layer of mulch is optional to help retain moisture and keep the bulbs cool. Just remember that if you do plan to add mulch, factor it into your planting depth.

When planting any type of bulb, position it so that the peaked end points up. That's where flower stems will emerge. The flatter, larger end goes at the bottom of the planting hole.

To protect your bulbs from rodents burrowing underground and eating them, create a chicken wire basket that you can place in the hole dug for the bulb. Line the bottom with the wire and bend up the sides about 2 inches. Once the basket is in place, cover the bottom with compost, add a little bulb fertilizer and then drop in the bulb. Fill in the hole with the remaining soil.

If you have a problem with dogs, squirrels or other animals digging into your bulb plantings, you can place a piece of chicken wire over the top of the entire bed space and hide it with mulch. Just remember to remove the wire before the bulbs begin to emerge in the spring.

Sometimes warm winter weather causes bulb foliage to begin emerging early. Bulbs are equipped with a certain amount of anti-freeze that can help them get through cold so the leaves should be okay. The only time to be concerned is once the flower has completely opened. If it looks like that may happen, the best advice is to cut a bouquet and enjoy the blooms in the house.

If you want the bulbs to bloom again the following year, the name of the game is to keep the leaves green as long as possible. This gives the foliage time to recharge the bulb for next year's blooms. For the best results, wait about eight weeks after the blooms have faded to remove the foliage.

Don't waste those nutrient-rich leaves that are starting to fall! Leaves are jam-packed with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, chloride, boron, iron, sodium, copper, and zinc – all the things to make your soil smile. To simply rake and bag them up and haul them off is a waste of nature's vast free supply of rich nutrients.

So how do you go green with leaves? Start the process by raking the leaves off the perennial beds onto the lawn, then mow both the leaves and the lawn together, which results in a perfect compost mix. In addition, use leaves for overall soil improvement, tilling them into garden and flowerbed soils or pile them in an out-of-the way enclosed compost pile so they won't blow away. By springtime you'll be surprised how much they have decomposed, ready to provide free natural fertilizer for your favorite plants. And speaking of composting, look at the Extension course below for how you can learn to do it.

Backyard Composting

"Backyard Composting" will be held at University of Illinois Extension Office in Coles County at 707 Windsor Rd, Suite A Thursday, October 16 at 7 p.m. The presentation will be via the University of Illinois telenet system and local computer PowerPoint presentation, allowing live discussion between the instructor and gardeners throughout Illinois. Cost to attend the workshop is $5. If interested please call the Extension office at 345-7034 to reserve a seat and packet of information. Registration is needed by October 13.

This program is open to the public. If you need a reasonable accommodation, please let us know one week prior to the event.

If you have any horticulture questions, call the U of I Extension office 345-7034. Volunteer

Master Gardeners are in the office on: Monday—2 to 4 p.m. and Wednesday—9-11 a.m.

This column is based on information and materials at the University of Illinois Extension office, located at 707 Windsor Road, Suite A., Charleston, 61920; phone 345-7034; or web site: www.extension.uiuc.edu/coles/