Here we are the first week-end in October. Fall is such a pretty time of the year. So far this has been a beautiful fall for us.

But you know we need to be getting our gardens ready for winter. This also a good time to do some plant "swapping" with your friends and neighbors. You might try collecting seeds, and then try to figure out where you would like to plant them next spring.

One problem you might want to try and tackle now is the weeds. Isn't it amazing how tough they are? It's too bad there isn't a market for them—I sure could have made a "killing" off the ones around here. Controlling weeds involves more than just removing what you see. It's what you don't see, too, that can get you in trouble.

A huge store of weeds wait in the ground, determined to germinate once exposed to light and warmer temperatures. The slightest disturbance can provide one or both. Weeds are just ready to take advantage of circumstances. They will fill every square foot of your garden given a chance. Staying ahead of the silent enemy requires vigilance.

Weeds should be removed before they go to seed or they can overwhelm desirable plants. Winter cress can be carefully pulled roots and all, without having to turn up the soil. Other weeds snap off above ground level with the root system and crown in tact, and the tiny stem almost invisible to the frustrated gardener. Chickweed and purslane are such offenders. Take these types out with a long-handled or hand hoe.

An angled hoe is just about perfect when weeding around perennials or where you need better control. Angle the cutting head so it enters the soil efficiently. The head should form a triangle with the point at the top, so that its base can reach under the plant edges. Before I get started on the questions –I just wanted to say I finally got my "Cast" off—now I am in therapy—that is tough too!!!

GARDEN QUESTIONS FOR CENTRAL ILLINOIS

Q) It has been said that evergreens need to be planted before October 1 to assure proper growth. What about non-green shrubs? A) The sooner the better, but preferably before November 1. Some folks like to plant in the fall and that's fine. As long as the ground is not frozen you'll have some root development. Others prefer to wait until spring when you will have both root and top development. Q) I have seen several trees around town which seem to be "smothering" because they are covered with vines. Won't these vines kill the trees? A) First of all, it depends on how the vine climbs and how vigorous it is. Plants like English ivy, which attach themselves to the surface of the bark with aerial roots called holdfasts, do not do damage to the tree until they get so huge that their weight breaks branches and their leaves block out too much light. Plants like wisteria and honeysuckle, which tend to wrap themselves around the trunk, are a bigger hazard. As these vines grow, they can strip and then strangle the tree, eventually killing it. Because English ivy adds a handsome green winter cloak, it can be allowed to stay as long as they are confined to the lower trunk, where it won't lie on the branches or interfere with the sunlight.

Q ) What is the care of fall-blooming chrysanthemums? Mine die down every fall, lose their leaves (which turn black or brown), and flower very late. A) They are probably infested with leaf nematodes (eelworms). In some cases, the blooms turn brown before fully opening, while having foliage that is in good condition. In your case though, after your plants have bloomed, cut back close to the ground. Remove and burn all stems and leaves, which harbor the pest over winter. In spring propagate from tip cuttings and set plants in new location with good soil, or soil disinfected with formaldehyde or chloropicrin.

TIP: Continue watering newly planted trees and shrubs – Unless of course we should get lots of rain. Remember too, you still have plenty of time to divide your perennial flowers such as daylilies, bearded iris and spring bulbs including tulips, daffodils and crocuses. These plants tend to become overgrown and crowded after a number of years, reducing growth and flowering.

Spring flowering bulbs should be divided to guarantee continual bloom, although it may be easier to replant tulip beds every three to four years. The hardest part of dividing bulbs is locating them. It may take several trial digs to locate the bulbs. Since it is possible to disturb surrounding plants or to accidentally slice or cut the bulbs you are looking for, and considering the time and effort involved, it could be better to plant new bulbs.

Here is a suggestion for all of you—be sure to go by and look at the west side of the D to Z building on Broadway in Mattoon. A beautiful mural is being painted on this wall. I volunteered early last spring to be on the board to get this project underway. It has been very rewarding to say the least. Justin Grady (a Master Gardener) was head of this board. He, along with others, will be assisting the artist with this very special project. The artist really listened to us about our town MATTOON. He is putting on that wall what makes Mattoon—Mattoon!—from the railroads to the baseball to the prairie flowers to the corn fields. It is going to be something we all will be very proud of.

If you have any horticulture questions, call the U of I Extension office 345-7034. Volunteer

Master Gardeners are in the office on: Monday—2 to 4 p.m. and Wednesday from 9-11 a.m.

This column is based on information and materials at the University of Illinois Extension office, located at 707 Windsor Road, Suite A., Charleston, 61920; phone 345-7034; or web site: www.extension.uiuc.edu/coles/