This 'n' That….

Well I am still in a cast for my wrist which is broken on each side. It has been 4 weeks and I am looking at least another 2 weeks. It is sure trying my patience.

It is really hard to believe this is almost the end of August. The kids are already back in school. Everything is still blooming—even the grass has not "burned-up". It has stopped growing like it was, but that is because the days are getting shorter. This is a great time to take a walk around your yard and see what needs to be divided or maybe just moved. Some plants that should be divided are day lilies, several of the ornamental grasses, Lady's Mantle, hostas, Heliopsis, Black-eye Susans, and coneflowers, just to name a few. To bad I am not going to be able to do any digging this season. Ha Ha—did I say we were going to be very busy?

Even though we are getting to the end of our growing season I know there are still lots of questions. The following ones might be helpful. Until next time—happy Gardening.

GARDEN QUESTIONS FOR CENTRAL ILLINOIS

Q) Could you give me some guidelines for caring for my lilac bush; such as pruning, etc.? A) As I am sure you must know, lilac bushes need sunshine. The less sunshine they receive the fewer the flowers. If they do not receive enough air circulation, they will be prone to powdery mildew. This usually does not kill the bush but it does put it under stress. Transplanting injury, lack of sufficient water, too much fertilizer, or air pollution can sometimes cause the leaves to turn brown. Pruning your lilac bush is a very good idea. This can be done anytime after they bloom. The best way to start is to prune out most of the young suckers and all of the dead or diseased wood. Some of the older branches should be cut out also, to allow more light to reach the branches in the center of the plant. To control the height of your bush, you might consider cutting it down to within a foot of the ground and start entirely new plants. If you feel this is too drastic, you can thin out 1/3 of the branches over a 3 year period; this allows for continuous blooming. For those bushes that have all the growth at the top, leaving the lower part very unsightly, then it is recommended that these bushes be cut down to with in a foot of the ground. You will be surprised how nicely they grow just by doing this severe cutting back.

Q) I have just moved into a new home. There is room for planting in front, and I would like something colorful there, but what can I plant now that it is August? Anything would be better than the bare dirt. A) Assuming you want it to thrive, the only thing you should plant in August is a dream for the future. Lawns, perennials, shrubs, and trees will all get a far better start in the cool, rainy weather of fall. Instead of rushing out to plant, spend what's left of the summer touring your new neighborhood, noticing what's healthy and pretty. Don't forget to check out the parks. Then scout through nurseries for good supplies of things you want. This is also the time to order and spread generous layers of topsoil and compost to improve that bare dirt. (The fact that it does not have weeds suggests it needs some help.) Once armed with good soil and good ideas, you'll be ready to dig in when the fall planting season arrives. Q) When transplanting trees why do suckers shoot from the ground instead of branches? A) When suckers appear at the base, and no growth develops in the top, there is trouble. It is probably due to root injury and failure to prune the top sufficiently at transplanting time. It is always best to keep the suckers cut away from the bottom of the trunk of any tree as they appear.

Q) Is this the right time of year to prune oak trees? The answer is yes (Arborists recommend not to prune oaks between April and July when the beetles that carry the oak wilt fungal disease are most prevalent). You could prune yews now, but it probably would be better to wait until mid-September. Otherwise, you'll get a spurt of new growth that will freeze this winter and not look good.

Q) Is it too late to divide bearded irises? I know it should be done after they finish flowering. A) August is a fine month to divide your bearded irises. The best time is shortly after flowering. The reason for this is so the plant can recover before fall. Just be sure and do the dividing in advance of a hard frost.

Q) My trees have a lot of what looks like dead branches. Any way to tell for sure so I don't cut off good wood? A) It's best to perform a scratch test to see if the bark or the area beneath the bark is green. If the branch is green, leave it alone. If the branch is dried out, it's OK to prune it off. As soon as you determine a branch is dead, it should be removed. TIP: TREES: Newly planted trees and shrubs should continue to be watered thoroughly once a week or as necessary. Do not apply fertilizer to trees and shrubs between now and October 15 if pruning is also done. Both practices together may cause lush growth that is apt to winter kill. Hot dry weather is ideal for spider mite development. Damage may be present even before webs are noticed. Leaves may be speckled above and yellow below. Evergreen needles appear dull gray green to yellow or brown. Spray if needed. Fall webworms have started their nest building near the ends of branches of infested trees. Also—harvest flowers for drying when buds begin to open. Remove all unnecessary foliage. Tie loosely in bunches with the heads hanging down. Hang in dark, dry location. This method works best with flowers that wilt minimally or not at all, such as field grasses, goldenrod, celosia, salvia, strawflowers, baby breath, Dusty Miller, and Sedum. Dry larger flowers individually. Allow about two weeks for drying.

If you have any horticulture questions, call the U of I Extension office 345-7034. Volunteer

Master Gardeners are in the office on: Monday—2 to 4 p.m.; Wednesday and Friday—9-11 a.m.

This column is based on information and materials at the University of Illinois Extension office, located at 707 Windsor Road, Suite A., Charleston, 61920; phone 345-7034; or web site: www.extension.uiuc.edu/coles/