This article was written by Marsha Overton, Coles County Master Gardener.

You know the one sure sign that spring is not too far away is the "Farm Show at the Cross County Mall." It is this week-end. There is going to be special presentations by our own Extension Master Gardeners. Today at 10:30 a.m. Max Davis has the topic: Vegetable Gardening in a pail or anywhere garden plots. Gardening can be done on all size plots from a 5 gallon pail to a very large garden plot. Max will be addressing problems to look out for, adequate watering, soil testing, and other tips to get more produce from your plot, no matter what size it may be.

At 2:00 p.m. today, Dale McCullough and Justin Grady present their topic: Common Insects and Tree diseases of this Area. Some common insects you may deal with are aphids, Japanese beetles, spider mites, earwigs, and others. You may have leaf diseases such as sooty mold, powdery mildew, or scab on apples and crabapple. Twig, stem, or trunk problems include cankers, blight, and gall. Maple, oak, redbud, ash, and magnolia may have a wilt problem. If you are concerned about Emerald Ash Borer,you can find out more information from our arborists. So go on out and support these local Master Gardeners. They will also be available to answer questions that you might have.

We all are very anxious to get out and work in our yards and gardens but, we also know that there can still be some cold weather coming. Several of you have asked if the "dead" stems, branches, or blooms on our plants, should be removed now. It really is a little early for that. As soon as you see new growth coming up through the ground, it is time to consider trimming back the dead growth. Actually, the dead growth acts to protect the new growth from frost and cold---so don't be too anxious yet.

March is the ideal time to get your seeds potted for frost-tolerant vegetables. Update your garden diary. Cover and make ready the greenhouse and hotbeds. Sharpen garden tools. Locate source of equipment, fertilizers, and pesticides, order seeds and plants.

If you haven't, collect soil samples for testing when conditions permit. For more information about collecting samples, call the University of Illinois Extension Office. Keep the bird feeders full, there's still more cold weather to come. Exchange information with friends who are also gardeners. Heavy pruning of trees should be completed while they are still dormant. Avoid pruning while new leaves are growing.

Maple sugar time is here. Freezing nights and mild days make sap flow. Inspect fruit trees, birch, or any other tree with a past history of tent caterpillars. Look for the egg masses which appear as dark brown or gray collars that encircle small twigs. Destroy by pruning or scratching off with thumbnail. Rake leaves, twigs and debris.

Did you know that it's not too late to "Force" spring-buds from flowering shrubs that is. The process itself is really quite simple. In fact the word "forcing" is a harsh word for what is actually a gentle procedure. Most flowering shrubs develop their buds in the fall and after a period of cold, the buds are ready to be tricked into thinking that spring has come. For some of these buds we are a little to late to do this year, but maybe you could try next year. There are buds that should be cut in January, February and March.

Even though we are a little late for January and February, I thought I'd give you the list so you'll have them for next year. January buds are: Cornelia cherry, Forsythia, Witch Hazel and Pear. February buds are: Japanese quince, Apple or crabapple, Cherry, plum or flowering almond and Pussy willow. March buds are: dogwood, Beautybush, Magnolia, Apple or crabapple and Mock orange. Now, since we are just into March, some of the suggested buds for February could still be used.

As a rule of thumb, woody branches can be forced after the buds begin to swell. Collect the branches on a warm winter day, choosing those you would normally prune anyway. (Winter is a great time to cut back, because you can see a shrub's entire structure without the distraction of leaves.) As you look over your garden area, you may see it in a new way and notice details of plant form and twig structure you may have missed before.

Cut healthy branches at least a foot long with plenty of plump buds. Collect a few more than you expect to use because some may not absorb water. The closer to their natural bloom time you cut them, the sooner they will open. Some branches will let you know if they are ready to be coaxed into bloom. For example, one of the more difficult buds to force should show some pink or white color. Usually the time period is between three and six weeks before you want flowers and at least five weeks before their natural bloom time.

Your vase size will determine the number of branches, just don't prune too heavily on your bushes. Bring the cut branches indoors and submerge them entirely in room-temperature water over-night to encourage them to break dormancy. Here's where the bathtub comes in. (This is essential if the branches are frozen when you collect them). Then make a second diagonal cut just above the first and split their branch's end one or four inches in high: Thicker branches need a longer slit to draw up water. To avoid injury, use sharp pruners to make the cuts, unless you are skilled at using a pruning knife. Smashing the stems may block water intake; instead, peel back the bark a couple of inches. Clip any buds or twigs that will be underwater. Put the branches in a container filled with 3 inches of hot water (about 180 degrees), so the stems will take up water quickly. Let them stand about 30 minutes. Then fill the container with additional water and put in a cool, partially shaded place (60 to 65 degrees). Change the water frequently to prevent a build-up of bacteria that can clog stems. A few drops of laundry detergent can be used to keep the water clear in a clear vase, along with a teaspoon of sugar and 2 drops of bleach to prolong the life of your blooms. You should recut stems every week or so to promote water uptake. When the buds show color, move the branches to a well lit room, but keep them out of direct sunlight.