This column was written by Jacqueline Record, Coles County Master Gardener.

Did you know that Lincoln's Birthday actually marks the beginning of the gardening season in Central Illinois? That is when a good gardener should begin thinking about pruning, especially small flowering trees, fruit trees and vines.

Why prune, you might ask, and especially so early? Basically, the answer is this: if you don't you will eventually wish you had. I speak from personal experience here.

Most garden books tell you there are four reasons for pruning in the spring: to encourage fruit production, to repair storm damage or correct improper growth patterns, to thin dense growth and for renewal or special effects. We won't address the latter just now, but by Washington's Birthday, barring inclement weather (snow or rainstorms or extremely cold temperatures,) the diligent gardener should have been outside lopping and chopping on those crossing limbs and double leaders so that young trees and some not so young ones, will grow like children, that is, as the twig is bent.

I always liked the story about George Washington having chopped down a cherry tree, and was disappointed to learn it might not be the literal truth. I prefer to believe that little George was sent out, on his birthday nonetheless, to prune that cherry tree and got a little carried away and eventually had to cut the thing down. Then Parson Weems had to make up a cover story for the kid, who was already well known for his temper.

At any rate, this is the time for pruning so forget about raking and cleaning up lawns and flowerbeds for now. It is much too early and we all know the March winds will bring all the litter back, plus some of your neighbors'. The first "nice" day is for thinning out the centers of Bradford pears, which tend to be shallow-rooted and top-heavy. They are definitely not low-maintenance trees, but if you care for them and thin out the centers to let in light they should be less vulnerable to storms and live for a long time. Crabapples and flowering plums tend to develop water sprouts and limbs that cross. These can be removed while the trees are still bare and you can see their natural shape. You can also "head back" limbs on young trees by looking for lateral buds and making cuts so that the new growth will start in the direction you want. Avoid cutting away too many of the new buds or you won't have much bloom this spring.

Storm damage is another matter; I would suggest removing damaged limbs for now and waiting until spring bloom is just past and then pruning to rejuvenate. Make clean cuts and try not to leave stubs or tear the bark below the cuts; these are invitations to disease and insect infestations. It is usually not necessary to spray paint or otherwise treat wounds of this sort.

Heavy sap producers, notably maples, should be pruned in early winter if possible; otherwise, they will "bleed" for a time. They will probably recover, but unless they look really bad wait until next year. For evergreens and conifers, late spring or early summer is the optimum time for pruning.

Some clematis, notably "jackmanii", and some hydrangeas can be pruned now. Others flower on last year's growth, so if you are not sure, check before you cut. And leave forsythia, lilacs and other spring flowering shrubs until after the flowers are spent.

We should have a few good days for pruning in the next week or two. In the meantime you could sharpen your tools. Depending on the size of your garden and the size of your trees you will probably need at least a by-pass pruning shear, a lopping shear and a pruning saw.

I might be the only woman of your acquaintance who actually received a pair of left-handed Felco pruning shears for a Valentine's present. Okay, so I actually bought them for myself–but on Valentine's Day. They have red handles, a must for careless gardeners like me who are forever searching for dropped tools and gloves in the garden. I get a lot of exercise that way.

Keep your tools clean to avoid spreading diseases between plants (or between branches) by dipping your shears or saws in a solution of bleach or alcohol between cuts. Wipe them with oil when you have finished, so they won't rust, like some of mine.

In the meantime, look for a good gardening book or pamphlet with illustrations of how to prune a plant. There are many in our local libraries and the Coles County Extension Office has several to offer. They all seem to have the same basic information but some have better drawings and instructions. I like one called "Pruning and Care of Trees and Shrubs" by F. A. Giles and associates at the U of I, which can be ordered by asking for pamphlet No. U5040. It has clear drawings and a pretty comprehensive list of what should be pruned when. The U of I Extension also has materials specific to fruit trees, brambles and grapes. Just call the Master Gardeners at 345-7034 to inquire about them.

If you have any horticulture questions, call the local U of I Extension office Monday through Friday at 345-7034. Volunteer Master Gardeners are not in the office this time of year–they will return your call.

This column is based on information and materials available at the University of Illinois Extension office, located at 707 Windsor Road, Suite A., Charleston, 61920; phone 345-7034; or web site: http://coles.extension.uiuc.edu/.