As our spring-flowering shrubs and trees finish blooming, it is time to prune them so they will flower on schedule next spring. These plants bloom best and can be kept in bounds with annual pruning.

Since early-flowering plants bloom from buds set the previous summer, prune now so plants have plenty of time to set buds for next spring. Begin by removing all dead or broken branches.

Multi-stem flowering shrubs can become too tall and bare at the bottom. They can be renewed by cutting out a number of the oldest stems to the ground each year. This stimulates new growth from the roots. Cut out 1/4 of the oldest stems all the way to the ground. Renewal in this manner helps keep the plant free of borers and scale insects, and the oldest stems will be only 4 years old.

Old plants may have only a few main stems. The immediate result of renewal on these plants may be somewhat unattractive. But, new shoots from the bottom of the plant will provide a better shape and foliage to the ground. Then, future renewal pruning will result in no loss of beauty.

Stems remaining from renewal pruning are often too long and ungainly. Therefore, single-stem plants and small flowering trees may be headed back. Head back overly long branches by removing them to a shorter side branch that grows in the same direction or away from the center of the plant. The result will be a smaller plant, but it won't change the character or shape of the plant.

Flowering trees and single-stem shrubs are often grafted on different rootstocks. Remove any suckers that are growing from the ground. Also, flowering trees bloom best on horizontal branches. Remove any strongly vertical water sprouts that shoot up through the center of the tree before they take over.

Often, people are afraid to prune because they think it will harm the plants or because they are afraid of making a mistake. But, pruning actually stimulates plants to grow, making them more vigorous and healthy. They flower better, and they continue to grow. So if you make a mistake, in a season or so when the plant has recovered, you can do the pruning again the right way. Do not be afraid to experiment. Plants can take quite a bit of abuse and still come back to provide beauty.

It seems so simple … locate the utility lines before planting. But, all too often we rush to get trees, shrubs, and other plants in the ground before summer heat arrives.

Whether you are adding some plants to your own landscape, planting at a community facility, or advising a client, emphasize the importance of locating all utilities before digging. Failure to know where utility lines are can result in loss of service, repair expense, injury, or even loss of life if gas or electrical lines are damaged.

Today's average home not only has electrical, phone, water, and gas service but also internet, satellite or cable TV, and septic lines.

Additional phone and electrical lines may be connecting sheds, barns, and other outbuildings as well as outdoor pole lights and landscape lighting. Underground plumbing installed for irrigation and outdoor wood-burning furnaces should also be considered.

Although some utilities are above ground and visible, the majority are buried in the ground. In general, avoid planting any shrubs or trees immediately above or next to underground lines.

When above-ground utility lines are present, limit the below landscaping to turf, groundcovers, or low-growing shrubs. Most medium to large trees will eventually reach tall lines, and even some "small" tree species can reach heights of 10 to 15 feet.

One of the best free services to Illinois homeowners is the "JULIE" utilities locating service. JULIE stands for Joint Utilities Locating Information for Excavators. With a call to JULIE, local cooperating utility partners are notified of your digging project, and they will come to your property to locate and mark underground utility lines.

The utility locaters usually come within 48 hours of notification. They will mark the location of public utilities but not private utilities such as water well service or supplemental cable or internet lines that the homeowner has run between buildings.

Homeowners can also directly contact their utility companies to request a line marking. Some companies such as LP gas tank services may not be in the JULIE network and may need to be contacted directly.

Before buying a home, it is always a good idea to confer with the owner about other potential privately managed services on the property.

JULIE is a statewide service, except in the Chicago area. You can reach JULIE by calling this toll-free number: 1-800-892-0123. For more details about the JULIE service, visit this website: www.illinois1call.com.

Three new fact sheets have recently been added to the SI Gardening website, http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/regions/hort. If you don't have internet access, your local U of I Extension office can provide you with copies.

· Spring Seeding a Home Lawn—includes advice for starting a new lawn, spot seeding, and over-seeding lawns. You'll find this fact sheet in the Flowers and Ornamentals section.

· Growing Rhubarb—provides detailed information for growing success. It's in the "Fruits and Vegetables" section of the site.

· Pruning Climbing Vines—this fact sheet provides tips for both fruit and flowering vines such as grapes, ivy, and clematis. This one is in the Flowers and Ornamentals section.

Azaleas and rhododendrons are classic spring-flowering shrubs noted for their masses of purple, white, orange, or pink blossoms. However, these plants are not free of problems.

Fortunately, most problems are not caused by insects or weather-related diseases. The biggest problems can be traced to overwatering, plant location, soil pH, and hardiness.

Azaleas and rhododendrons need protection from the winter sun and winds. Flower buds on many plants are set in the fall and can suffer winter injury due to extreme cold or drying conditions.

A cool, moist site is preferred, although the soil should be well drained. The plants suffer if overwatered or if roots are surrounded by a heavy clay soil that remains moist. The result is usually a root rot caused by a fungal pathogen named Phytoptera. Leaves fold down and appear wilted due to the lack of roots.

If drainage is a problem, the soil can be amended with organic matter. Add compost, well-rotted manure, or peat moss in the planting area.

Recent research has indicated the greatest success with transplanting occurs when the plant is placed one-third above ground, with the soil sloping gently away from the top of the root ball. This style of planting is also recommended when putting in new plants. This placement allows excess water to drain away and limits root rotting.

Make sure the soil is still worked beneath the plant. Just setting the plant on top of the ground and covering the area with soil may limit root growth and subject the plant to frequent drying.

Never plant the shrub deeper than it was in the container or as a balled and burlapped specimen.

Azaleas and rhododendrons prefer an acidic soil. A pH of 5.0 is ideal. Make sure your soil is tested to determine the pH. Sulfur may need to be added to modify the pH. Peat moss is slightly acidic and can be used to lower the pH. Your local Extension office has information on lowering the soil pH.

Select only hardy rhododendrons and azaleas.

Evergreen rhododendrons and azaleas suffer more winter injury since leaves are constantly losing moisture and looking to the roots to replenish what's lost. If the ground is frozen and dry, that may be difficult and some death can occur.

Buy only plants hardy to USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 5B or lower. Many Minnesota introductions are hardy to Zones 3 and 4. Avoid plants with a hardiness of 6 or 7.

Some rhododendrons to consider include include Boule de Neige, P.J.M., Yak's, or Yaku's.

Azaleas, both deciduous and evergreen, hardy to Illinois include the Herbert's, Karen's, Pioneers, Exbury, Stewart's, and Korean. The Northern Lights, a series ofdeciduous azaleas developed through a program at the University of Minnesota, are hardy to Zone 3.

Never buy a plant with just the name "Azalea" or "Rhododendron" without knowing the type. Quality plants can be bought at a reputable garden center or nursery.

Extension's new Distance Diagnostics website not only explains the Illinois

Distance Diagnostics system but also provides information on how to collect a good sample for diagnosis or identification.

A unique feature is a Picture of the Week that shows various samples that have been submitted. Check it out at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/distancediagnostics/

Flowering dogwood trees, which are native to this area, are found in the woods and along the back roads of southern Illinois.

The small size of this tree makes it a popular choice for small spaces. Homeowners often add a dogwood tree to their landscape in order to enjoy the spring floral display presented by this small tree.

Avid bird watchers will plant a dogwood in the yard to help attract nature's wild creatures. During the fall and winter, the red berries produced by this tree are enjoyed by many songbirds.

Today's choices are red, pink, and white flowering dogwoods. A mature dogwood will reach a height of 15 to 30 feet. This tree will grow in partial shade to full sun. The leaves in the fall are an exciting scarlet color.

Once established, the dogwood is relatively drought tolerate.

Dogwood borer is a pest that will damage dogwood trees. This insect burrows beneath the bark in the larva stage, disrupting the flow of sap. The insect can cause enough damage to actually kill the tree. When mowing or using a weed trimmer, be especially careful to not damage the tree's bark—damaged trees are more attractive to the dogwood borer.

To control dogwood borer, spray the trunk of the tree with permethrin in mid-May and again in mid-June. This insecticide will need to be applied annually.

So as you talk to clients about their landscaping needs, remember that the flowering dogwood is a good choice for small spaces and to add a floral delight to the yard.