Mites Add Insult to Injury
Mites are tiny animals closely related to spiders and ticks. Several species are serious pests of ornamental trees and shrubs, evergreens, flowers and vegetables.
Red spider mites are small and appear as small flecks running around on the underside of foliage or in fine silk webbing that is spun by the mites themselves. The key is a mottled or yellow speckling to the foliage of the plants.
Many evergreens including yews, junipers, boxwoods and spruces are susceptible to mite attacks. Roses are also prone to attacks as are apples and tomatoes.
Mites vary in color from almost no color to a pale yellow. Other coloration, such as orange, green or black, may be present depending on the host plant and mite species.
Eggs are laid on the foliage and hatch in 5 to 10 days, depending on the temperature. In colder weather, eggs take longer to hatch (10 to 12 days).
Contrary to popular belief, mites are more prolific and active during the cooler periods of the growing season such as late spring/early summer and late summer/early fall. However, because of the mite's feeding habits, mite damage is usually most prevalent and obvious during hot, dry periods.
Mite feeding damage first appears as finely mottled and then grayish, dry and brown. Later, a bronzing of the foliage will occur.
Heavy mite infestations may result in premature leaf drop, and foliage and/or branches of evergreens may die. Remember that mite populations can build up rapidly, so early control is important.
To inspect for mites, simply hold a light-colored sheet of paper under the affected plant part and give a thorough shaking. If mites are present, they will drop to the paper and resemble small dots or flecks moving about. If mites are not present, then another problem may be responsible.
Applying miticides to affected plants can control mites. Unfortunately, most miticides are not available for use by homeowners; they must be applied by a certified commercial pesticide applicator. However, homeowners can temporarily control mites by using a heavy stream of water and literally washing the mites off the foliage. A light sprinkling of water will not be effective in dislodging the mites. Insecticidal soaps are also available and will suffocate the creatures. Carefully read and follow all label directions.
Blopssom-End Rot in Tomatoes
Blossom-end rot is a summer disease common in tomatoes and fruit vegetables such as peppers, eggplant, and sometimes melons and summer squash.
It is a non-pathogenic disease, a physiological disorder. It is a symptom of calcium deficiency in the fruit. Calcium deficiency may be caused by low soil calcium, low calcium in maturing fruit, or fluctuating soil moisture. It is usually severe following extremes in soil moisture conditions—either too dry or too wet.
Fruit need large amounts of calcium for normal cell growth. When a rapidly growing fruit is calcium-deficient, normal cell growth is interrupted, and the tissues start breaking down. This leaves a characteristic dry, sunken lesion at the blossom end of the fruit.
Blossom-end rot is induced when calcium demand exceeds supply. This may come as a result of low calcium levels or competition for calcium uptake with other mineral nutrients in the soil.
Other factors that can predispose plants to blossom-end rot are very little moisture in the soil caused by drought stress, excessive soil moisture fluctuations which reduce uptake and movement of calcium into the plant, or rapid vegetative growth due to excessive nitrogen fertilization.
In tomatoes, the first visible symptom of this disorder is a small, darkened or water-soaked area around the blossom end of the fruit. The spot darkens, enlarges, and becomes sunken as the fruits mature. Larger lesions may show concentric rings. The affected tissue is leathery and firm unless invaded by secondary decay organisms.
Blossom-end rot usually causes the fruit to ripen prematurely, and it then becomes inedible. Sometimes the affected areas become infected with secondary pathogens which appear black on the affected areas. The affected area can be small or may cover most of the fruit.
Blossom-end rot appears as tan in color in peppers and should not be confused with sunburn, which is whitish and away from the blossom end. Blossom-end rot usually appears on the first cluster of fruits in tomatoes and peppers.
The disease can be controlled by selecting sites with deep, well-drained soils where plants will develop well-formed root systems for optimal uptake of calcium and other mineral nutrients.
Test your soil every three years and lime it as needed. Avoid use of ammoniacal nitrogen fertilizers such as ammonium nitrate because the ammonium inhibits calcium uptake. Do not over-fertilize the plants at planting.
Provide adequate moisture throughout the growing season and mulch the plants. Avoid severe pruning of the plants, and when controlling weeds, do not dig deep closer to the base of the plant. Foliar sprays can be used as a short-term measure, but their absorption by the fruit is poor.
Summer Care of Garden and Fruit Plantings
Late planting has delayed garden harvest in much of the state. In Southern Illinois, August to mid-September will be peak season for late-planted tomatoes, snap beans, sweet corn, and other warm-season vegetables set in late May and June. Hot weather speeds crop maturity so harvest readiness should be closely watched to avoid over-maturity and loss of quality.
Timely fruit harvest is especially important because peak harvest windows quickly pass, particularly for grapes and berries. Early apple varieties, late peaches, and plums can quickly drop and/or be damaged by insects and birds as sugar levels increase.
You may also need to water the garden. Fruit and vegetable plantings should not become water-stressed for an extended period, or quality and quantity of yield is adversely affected. For Illinois soils, an average of 1 to 2 inches of water per week is needed for good production.
During the peak season, regularly scout for weeds, insect pests, and diseases. Use an integrated pest management approach in which cultural methods are first, and chemical options are second. When pesticides are used, carefully read the label and closely follow all directions and safety precautions.
There are many different insects and diseases to watch for in vegetables and fruit. Japanese beetles prefer a range of food crops. They can significantly reduce yields of apples, grapes, and raspberries—feeding on both fruit and leaves. They will also feed on sweet corn, okra, beans and even rhubarb.
Monitor other insects such as corn ear worm, cabbage worm, squash bug, and mites as the season progresses. Under warm, humid conditions, and high dew point nights in late summer, diseases such as early blight on tomatoes and potatoes, and powdery mildew on squash and apples become more prevalent.
Fungicide timing and frequency is important to slow these diseases; also avoid getting foliage wet when watering and don't water in the evening.
Fruit management can be very specific depending on the crop. To help ensure a better future harvest on gooseberries and currants, consider making at least one or two fungicide applications to bushes in the weeks following harvest. These plants are prone to losing their leaves to foliar diseases in mid-summer. Fungicides will help delay this leaf loss and thus improve fruit development for next year.
For grape vines, continue fungicide sprays until fruit begin to color and control Japanese beetles as necessary. Be sure to observe days to harvest on the pesticide label. Taste-test grapes close to maturity and harvest at optimum sugar level. Leave any delayed, green clusters for harvest at a later date. Other than keeping vines tied and out of the way of mowers, little management is needed after harvest.
The strawberry patch needs attention as plants begin new growth in mid-summer. Water during drought conditions and keep weeds under control as new runners and daughter plants set root. A late-summer soluble fertilizer application will promote vigor as they set buds in the fall for next year's crop. Ever bearing and day-neutral varieties will flower and sporadically fruit until first frost.
After harvest of brambles (blackberries and raspberries), remove the floricanes (the second year fruiting branches) at ground level to allow this season's primocane (first year) shoots more room to grow and develop. This will also allow greater air movement and thus less foliar disease.
New primocanes should be tied and supported to the trellis. Black raspberry primocanes should be tipped at mid-season to promote side branch development, and trailing type blackberries can be headed back as they reach the top of the trellis. Avoid heading back erect blackberries, such as 'Illini Hardy' and red raspberries.
With fall raspberries and the new fall blackberry varieties that fruit on the primocanes, the harvest season begins in late summer and extends to first frost. Insects and diseases should be closely monitored and managed during their harvest period. Always take special care to observe days to harvest when using pesticides with these crops, which can have both green and mature fruit on the plant at any given time.
As food prices continue to rise, you will likely get more and more questions from home gardeners who want to grow their own food. As these questions arise, the U of I horticulture websites can provide good information. You can access the sites at http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/state/hort.html.
Meeting Set for Commercial Tomato, Corn Growers
Commercial tomato and sweet corn growers will gather for an informational meeting on August 13, at 6 p.m., at Fournie Farms in Collinsville. As a Master Gardener, you are invited to attend.
Demonstration trials will showcase more recent releases of commercially available sweet corn and tomato varieties. You will also see advance releases from Randy Gardner's tomato breeding program at North Carolina State University. And, specialists will discuss newly labeled pesticides and overall pesticide spray programs.
Fournie Farms is located between I-255 and IL-157, just off Horseshoe Lake Road. From I-255, take Exit 26. Take a left onto Horseshoe Lake Road. Go approximately 1/2 mile; Fournie Farms is on the left. For those taking I-70/55, take Exit 11. Take a left at the light onto IL-157/Bluff Road. Make a left onto Horseshoe Lake Road. Go approximately 3/4 mile; Fournie Farms is on the right. For those using MapQuest, the physical address is Fournie Farms, Inc., 925 McDonough Lake Road, Collinsville, Illinois.
For more information, contact Elizabeth Wahle, 618-692-9434 or wahle@uiuc.edu.
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