Spring is the time to get algae under control in your pond. Algae—that greenish, slimy stuff—is a common problem. The key to control is to start early in the year, while the water is cool and the algae is growing slowly. April is the ideal time, but this spring has been so cool the water temperatures are still low.

The safest herbicides are copper-containing products like copper sulfate or copper chelates. Applied in the spring, these products provide good control with little danger to the fish, and there are few restrictions on using the pond. The water can still be used for drinking, fishing, and swimming. Make sure you read and follow all label directions.

Another product that can be used is a dye. When the dye is added to the pond, it changes the color of the water to a bright blue. This process reduces the light penetrating the water, and it reduces the plants' ability to grow. The result is less algae and submerged plant growth. The dye product should be added before the water temperature gets above 60 degrees. The warmer the temperature, the faster the plant kill.

If weed control is done later in the season with warmer temperatures and more weeds, the decomposing weeds in the pond may remove too much oxygen from the water, causing a fish kill if aeration isn't provided. That's why it is important to start early in the season while there are few weeds and the water is cool.

Keep in mind that only herbicides that are registered for aquatic weed control may legally be used to control vegetation in ponds. Carefully read the herbicide label before purchasing a product to insure that it is registered for aquatic weed control. The use of non-registered herbicides is a violation of federal law and may result in fines and other penalties. An excellent reference on aquatic weed identification and control is available on the web from Purdue University at www.btny.purdue.edu/Pubs/index.html#APM.

Our landscapes seem so idyllic. We assume our garden plants are quietly co-existing with one another…. but are they really? Actually, plants growing nearby are competitors. They are reaching for the same patch of sunlight or sending roots out to absorb water and nutrients along with every other plant.

So how do you reduce this competition? Plants deal with it by producing some type of toxic substance that will harm or kill off their competitors. In the plant world, this is called allelopathy.

Certain plants have an ability to restrict or limit the growth of surrounding plants or inhibit seed germination. Allelopathic plants make surrounding plants suffer by releasing chemicals in various ways. They may suppress seed germination or affect seedling growth. Researchers continue to figure out this silent warfare between plants. A common form of allelopathy is Walnut Wilt.

Members of the walnut family such as Black Walnut (Juglans nigra), Butternut (Juglans cinerea ) and Pecan (Carya illinoinensis) can create wilting symptoms in certain other plants that are growing in close proximity to their roots. What people need to understand is that tree roots extend well beyond the drip line of the canopy. A mature Black Walnut growing in your neighbor's yard could have roots extending to your vegetable garden where tomatoes are very susceptible.

Scientists have isolated the toxic compound, naming it juglone. Juglone has been found throughout the plant in the leaves, bark, wood, and husks of the nut. But the highest concentration is found in the roots. Whether juglone interferes with photosynthesis or water uptake is still a question for researchers. It has been indicated that juglone interferes with how nitrogen is rendered usable for plant uptake. To prevent walnut wilt, locate susceptible plants such as tomato, potato, apple, lilac, blackberry, asparagus, chrysanthemum, azalea, rhododendron, and peony away from walnut trees.

Another allelopathic example involves the decay of crucifers in your garden. As broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage decay, they release compounds that prevent some seeds such as lettuce from germinating. Sweet potatoes also release compounds as they decay.

Recently a new killing toxin was found. Phragmites australis is a tall grass that aggressively spreads by rhizomes in wetlands or in any low-lying area where water collects. We often see it along highways. In the winter, we notice the bronze-purple seed head.

Plant biologists at the University of Delaware have discovered that Phragmites exudes from its roots a toxic acid that literally disintegrates the structural protein in the roots of nearby plants. Research reports that within 10 minutes of exposure to this toxin, the structural protein of a marsh plant starts to disintegrate, and within 20 minutes the structural material is gone. No wonder other plants don't grow around Phragmites. The plant dissolves its competitors.

Reducing competition is nothing new. Plants have developed survival mechanisms to insure continuation of their offspring. Don't be fooled by their passive nature. Remember, not all plants play well with one another.

Spring has finally arrived, and home gardeners are busy buying seed and plants for landscaped areas and vegetable gardens.

One of the best things you can do to ensure success with new trees, shrubs, annuals, and perennial and vegetable gardens is to properly prepare planting areas. Plants will establish faster and be more resilient to the rigors of summer heat and drought. Well-prepared soils efficiently hold and release nutrients and moisture. Properly prepared soil also lets air get to the roots.

For much of central and southern Illinois, soils tend to be heavy and poorly drained. Plants do not grow and root well in tight, compacted, clay-dominated soils. That's why it's so important to cultivate these soils to improve their aeration and drainage.

Deeply turn planting areas with a spade to loosen and aerate the site. Avoid working soils when they are wet. In general, when a spade full of soil easily breaks up, it is time to go to work. For trees and shrubs, a wide hole is better than a deep hole because the width helps new roots explore into the native soils. For spot planting into established landscape and perennial beds, carefully spade near existing plants to minimize root damage, making the hole as wide as you can.

Annual flower beds and vegetable gardens respond well to hand spading or plowing the entire area, followed by roto-tilling. Rooting will be improved, and past year residues will be incorporated, which may help decrease some diseases.

As soils are dug and tilled, add plenty of organic matter to aid both fertility and drainage.

Whether it is compost, old manure, peat or a pre-bagged product found at a local garden center, any composted, organic material will do wonders for our area's soils. But, avoid adding fresh manure, sawdust, wood chips, and sand.

Another way to improve soil drainage is to use raised beds. A simple raised bed can be formed by throwing soil from the bed edges to the center and using a hard rake to form the bed and level the surface. This should be done after the area has been thoroughly tilled. Permanent raised beds can be made using pressure-treated lumber or other landscape construction materials.

Soils should also be fertilized before planting. Fertilizers have varying amounts of three key nutrients, pressed as a percentage of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). These are the three numbers you will find on a bag of fertilizer, such as a 13-13-13 (N-P-K).

In landscape and bed areas that have been cultivated, limed, and fertilized from year to year, levels of P and K and soil pH (acidity level) may already be within recommended ranges. A soil test will confirm this. Because nitrogen is easily lost from the soil, it needs to be added each year for good plant growth.

Most turfgrass fertilizers are high in nitrogen, along with small amounts of phosphorus and potassium, such as a 28-5-5 fertilizer. If a high-nitrogen fertilizer is used, only half as much is needed on an area basis. For example, most flower bed and garden areas need 1 to 2 pounds of 13-13-13, compared to only 1/2 to 1 pound of 28-5-5 per 100 square feet of bed area. Later in the season, supplemental fertilizer may be needed to keep plants vigorous. New trees and shrubs will benefit from 1 to 2 handfuls (1/2 cup) of a slow-release phosphorus and potassium fertilizer worked into the backfill and bottom of the planting hole. Manure and wood ash will reduce the need for P and K fertilizers.

Proper soil preparation is the secret to success in the garden. Taking the time before planting to deeply cultivate and properly amend soils will bring rewards of healthy, strong plants through this and future growing seasons.

For more lawn and garden information, visit the Coles County Extension horticulture website at: www.coles.extension.uiuc.edu/

Look at landscapes today and you'll see grapevines on a wall or in a tree. Sometimes, they are even along a fence. In many old photos, you will see a grapevine arbor in the background. A grape arbor can serve as a passage, shade area, or as an attractive accent in the home landscape.

The arbor can be large or small—the choice depends on its function. The fruit can be eaten fresh, or you can make it into jam or juice. Grapes can be allowed to grow naturally and form a thick arrangement of canes. There is nearly no upkeep on any vine grown for shade. But, a vine not pruned will yield little fruit. Of course, grapes like full sun and can survive in most any soil with good drainage.

Most experts suggest that you thin the vine each year to reduce disease and increase fruit production. The pruning should be done in March or early April. Basic pruning is cutting the vine back to two or three buds per branch and thinning out excess branches.

Several varieties work well in a grape arbor. 'Concord'—the deep purple, old American variety—grows well. It should be pruned to reduce disease. Today there are both seeded and seedless Concord varieties.

'Reliance' is a hardy red table grape with excellent flavor. This variety is seedless and is also cold tolerant.

'Himrod' is a seedless white grape that produces large bunches of grapes. This variety is not as cold hardy as 'Reliance.' Suggest these varieties to clients who are interested in growing some backyard grapes. A newly planted vine will not need an arbor until the following year.

Hi Everyone!

What accomplishments the Master Gardeners made last month. By mid-month, we had six trainees from Coles County complete classes in Effingham. A week later, they met their mentors, learned more about our local projects, received their notebooks and signed up to begin office hours. A few have already been in with their mentors to start answering clientele questions. (Of course the questions are slow this year with the late spring, so they haven't been too busy.)

Also in April, Darla and her committee engineered one of our most successful Plant Sales ever during the Mattoon Herb and Garden Festival. The array of plants from the Idea Garden and your own gardens was wonderful. When I arrived that Saturday morning, I walked the whole block to get to your corner—and that's where the customers were congregating!

The youth gardening activities at the Mattoon Middle School were each Tuesday in April. I was able to attend for part of the court yard garden clean-up day and got some great photos. They will be posted on the web site as soon as we have permission from the school. In addition Carolyn and Rita assisted U of I Extension with the Butterfly Enrichment program at the Mattoon third grade classrooms. Thanks for all you do to instill a love of nature in our young people.

May will be another active month. Work in both gardens is getting underway. I know we have a couple of speaking requests. Master Gardeners will be speaking at a Mother Daughter Dinner later this week and we have three others scheduled for the Historical Society's Garden Ramble at Wes Whiteside's. At the May meeting we will hear about plans for the MG booth at the Garden Ramble. I know gently used garden resources and plant markers will be sold. Also a few select plants have been set aside for that sale.

Welcome to our new interns. We hope you enjoy the summer!

Sharon

Tony Bratsch
Martha Smith
Ed Billingsley
Mike Plumer