Scale insects on shade and fruit trees as well as shrubs can usually be controlled in late winter with a dormant oil spray.Dormant oil is lightweight petroleum oil usually sold as dormant oil, superior oil, or Volck oil spray. It is applied to deciduous woody plants while they are dormant to kill exposed overwintering insects. Cottony maple, lecanium, euonymus, and San Jose scales, as well as European red mite, are the most common pests controlled because they are difficult to control at other times of the year.

Scales are protected from insecticides for most of the year by either a hardened body wall or a secreted waxy covering. Outside of dormant oil treatments, scale insects are only susceptible to pesticides as crawlers shortly after egg hatch. The crawler stage lasts only for a few days before the insect settles down into a leaf or branch to feed. It then molts to the next nymph stage and develops its protective covering.

Mites are difficult to control during the summer because they quickly reproduce and are not controlled by most insecticides. Miticides are needed to control mites, but they kill both the harmful and the beneficial insects that are naturally trying to keep the bad guys away.

When dormant oil is applied, it covers the overwintering mite eggs, the overwintering scale insects, and any exposed insect eggs. This coating of oil shuts off these pests' air supply and suffocates them. This pesticide is used while the plant is dormant because the oil can also be toxic to the plant. Applications before leaves start to emerge reduce this problem.

For the same reason, dormant oils should be applied only if the temperature for the 24 hours after treatment stays above 40 degrees so that the oil quickly evaporates off the bark.

Evergreens and hard maples, such as sugar maple and Norway maple, should not be sprayed with a dormant oil spray because of the potential for damage. However, it is possible to spray Euonymus vines (Big Leaf Wintercreeper) and lilacs to control scales on them. Don't worry if the leaves fall off a Euonymus plant. They would have dropped when new growth starts in a few weeks.

Dormant oil only needs to be applied once every three or four years. Make sure to spray the areas beneath the plant as well.

Many gardeners start vegetable seeds indoors–and for good reason. Some vegetable seeds are expensive, particularly hybrid varieties, so starting them indoors helps minimize seed loss due to rodents or poor weather. Also, vegetables established from transplants tend to mature much earlier than direct-seeded ones.

Planting time for vegetable seeds started indoors depends on when the seedling needs to be transplanted in the garden. This time may vary from 4 to 14 weeks.

For example, if the indoor start is done in relation to the last frost, the times are as follows:
·10 weeks–broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and head lettuce
·7 weeks–tomato, eggplant, and pepper
·4 weeks–cucumber, squash, muskmelon, and watermelon

Start with treated seeds. Treated seeds can control fungal diseases, such as damping off, that attack seedlings.

Test the germination percentage of the seeds by placing some of the seeds on a moist paper towel and setting it in a warm place with plenty of light. Check after six to seven days, depending on how long the seed of a particular type takes to germinate, and count the germinated seeds and express it as a percentage of the total number of seeds tested. You need to plant seeds based on a germination percentage so that you can get the required number of plants for transplanting in the garden.

Also, read the information on the seed packet for each variety or type of vegetable. Follow the directions on the seed packet about when to start the seeds, light requirements, relative humidity requirements, and temperature requirements.

Pots or trays for starting seeds need to have drainage holes on the bottom. Cover the holes with peat moss before filling with potting mix or soil. The soil needs to be light, loose, disease-free, insect-free, weed-seed-free, have good water-holding capacity, and be well-drained.

Fill trays or other containers with potting mix and gently level. Place the filled container on a pan of water overnight so that water can soak into the potting mix from the bottom. If trays are used, make shallow rows about 1 to 2 inches apart when starting different kinds or varieties of vegetables and label each row after seeding. If you are only starting one type of vegetable, you can broadcast the seed in the tray.

Gently press the seeds into the starting media according to the planting depth recommended on the seed packet. Cover the container with plastic film or a piece of window glass to retain the moisture until seeds germinate.

Do not place covered containers in direct sunlight. Place the containers in a warm location with a temperature range of 65 to 75 degrees for most vegetables. Some cool-season veggies such as cabbage, broccoli, peas, and cauliflower tend to do well when started at temperatures of about 55 degrees. After germination, remove the plastic film or glass cover and move the cool-loving plants to a cooler location.

Inspect the plants for damping off disease. Remove infected plants and drench the media with the recommended fungicides.

Place the seedlings in a well-lit area, such as a bright south-facing window. Or, you can use two fluorescent light bulbs (one cool and one warm white bulb) and place the seedlings 3 to 4 inches from the tubes for 14 to 16 hours per day. Adjust the space between the light bulbs and seedlings as the plants get larger.

Good air humidity is an asset. Do not overwater plants but ensure that plants are not wilting.

Apply a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half the recommended rate once every two weeks. After the appearance of true leaves, if the seeds were planted in individual containers or flats, thin the plants to the desired number by removing weaker ones.

At this stage, you can transplant seedlings into individual pots or larger containers or transfer to a hotbed, if one is available.

Vegetables that can easily be transplanted from one container to another are broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, lettuce, and tomatoes. Some vegetables such as cauliflower, celery, eggplant, onion, and pepper have slower root development and are not as easily transferred.

Most warm-loving vegetables such as cucumbers, muskmelon, squash, and watermelon do not transplant well so they are seeded directly into larger cells or pots where they grow until reaching a size that can be transplanted in the garden.

Before transplanting seedlings in the garden, get the plants ready for outdoor conditions.

Two weeks before transplanting, move them to a shaded area outdoors or place them in a cold frame. Then, move them gradually to sunlight for a short time during the day. Increase the length of exposure with time.

Do not expose seedlings to freezing temperatures or strong winds. Reduce watering and after proper hardening, plant them in the garden.

There is an old saying that you can prune a tree whenever the saw is sharp. But, the effects of pruning a tree can vary with the season and according to how much of the tree is pruned away.

Early spring pruning of trees is often preferred because plants are approaching a period of rapid growth, and pruning wounds will heal quickly. In general, if all you want to do is trim out dead, weak, or diseased parts of the tree, this type of pruning can be done at any time of the year without drastic effects on the tree.

If you prune to thin the trees–to allow light for grass and shrubs–prune in late winter or early spring. Heavy pruning done after growth starts in spring can weaken a tree because it forces the tree to use stored food for re-growth instead of for new growth. Heavy pruning during late summer should also be avoided because it can stimulate lush, succulent growth.

Elm, ash, and oak are exceptions. Prune elm and oak during late summer, fall, or winter to avoid the chance of infection with Dutch elm disease and oak wilt disease. Insects spread these diseases, and fresh wounds made during the growing season are likely attractants. Ash trees under stress should not be pruned during June or July because of the likelihood of an infestation with ash borer.

Birch and maple are known as bleeders and will "bleed" clear sap if pruned in early spring. Bleeding will not harm a tree but causes concern because of sap loss. To avoid sap loss, prune after trees are fully leafed out.

Many people think large trees should be topped. This is a misconception. Rather than eliminating "top heaviness," topping produces a weak tree that is subject to major problems.

When a tree is topped, large branches are drastically cut back in length. Most of the small, leaf- bearing branches are also removed. Topping a tree leaves many large stubs that can provide an ideal entrance for insects and diseases. The shearing effect results in a mass of growth the following year, near the end of each cut. These branches are weak and easily broken.

A more severe problem caused by topping occurs in the root system. A delicate balance exists between the leaf and root area. When many branches are removed, portions of the root system will die because there are not enough leaves to manufacture food for the roots. Disease organisms that lead to rotting frequently attack these dead and dying roots.

Improper pruning of limbs can also lead to weak, hollowed trunks. Pruning cuts should be made close to the trunk, a bud, or a branch. Do not leave stubs. Stubs are an open invitation to rot and decay and eventually can lead to rot entering healthy tissue and the trunk. Proper pruning averts this problem.

Proper pruning techniques include removing dead or dying branches; eliminating narrow, v-shaped crotch angles; trimming out limbs that grow towards the center of the tree; removing limbs that rub together; making cuts close to the trunk or branch; and not leaving stubs.

Pruning controls the growth and shape of plants, and it is an essential requirement for removing diseased or damaged plant material. We all know that pruning stimulates growth. But in the case of houseplants, we prune to reduce the width and height of plants.

Often houseplants can be pinched. This method of pruning removes a stem end to promote side bud growth. Using this technique will keep plants bushy and full. Simply pinch off the stem back to a leaf. Those plants which appear elongated can easily be pinched back for a more compact look.

In some cases, root pruning is necessary. This practice is used to hold back a plant's growth. In other words, we are trying to keep a plant in a small container. Keep in mind there are limits as to how much of the root system can be removed. If a plant requires root pruning, be sure to remove some foliage so the remaining root system is not stressed.

If you prefer to use pruners instead of pinching, select a pair of by-pass pruners. These pruners make clean cuts and do not crush stems like anvil-type pruners. Plant stems that are crushed take longer to recover.

So pinch or prune those houseplants to keep them looking their best!

Hi everyone,
Can you image–our schedule March meeting got postponed for a week because of the weather? You never know what to expect. But spring has to be on the way---my daffodils are peeking up about 2 inches on the south side of my home.

Training is underway and we have 6 participants from Coles County. They will be invited to join us at a meeting soon. And, we will need mentors for them–if you want to know what your responsibility would be, check out the new MG directory. There are some expectations listed in it. Talk to Paul, Glennie or Joyce, if you are interested.

I did get to attend a portion of your 'Peter Rabbit' presentation at the Farm Bureau Mall Show. The bunny was a hit with the school children and Mr. McGregor did a superb job. Check the website for photos–we hope to have them up soon. The presentations on Saturday were well received also.

I know Susan and her helpers had a great attendance at the Gardening Workshops offered at Douglas Hart Nature Center. She has requests for other topics, so be ready to volunteer.

The Visioning Committee and the Advisory Board are planning to meet yet this month. And, the Home and Garden Show at the Mall is coming up in late March. We have two presentations scheduled for that weekend too.

Spring will be here before you know it–I hope. I'm looking forward to color in the Landscape again!

Sharon