Around the holidays, we often see blooming plants that are members of the cactus family. The Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii), and the Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis gaetneri) all look alike. The Schlumbergera species are native to the tropical forests of Brazil, while the Rhipsalidopsis species is native to the natural forests of Brazil.

These three species of cactus are members of the group of cacti called leaf cacti. The plant bodies are flattened and the leaves are actually stems. The flowers are produced from notches in these stems or from the tips. The fuchsia-like flowers are long lasting. They are usually pink, but modern hybrids include white, red, yellow, and purple varieties.

The main difference between the Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus, and the Easter cactus is the time of bloom. As their common names suggest, the Thanksgiving cactus can bloom in late fall, one month before the Christmas cactus. The Easter cactus starts producing flower buds in February. Regardless of type, there are steps to follow to ensure bloom.

Flower bud initiation responds to cool temperatures and shortened day length. Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus should be left outdoors, away from artificial light until night temperatures dip into the 40s. At this time, they do best at temperatures between 50 and 65°F. Bring them in and place them in a cool area, keeping them away from all light between the hours of 5 p.m. and 8 a.m. , and water weekly. Avoid heating vents that can cause temperature fluctuations. The plants should come into flower sometime in December through January. If you want them to bloom sooner, start the cool temp/short day treatment earlier.

The Easter cactus requires a dry period. From October to November, very little water is required for flower bud initiation. Easter cactus should also be placed in the same cool area under shorter light periods at this time. In December, raise the temperatures to about 65°F. and water sparingly. Expect flowering around March.

When in flower, regardless of type, avoid high temperatures and heat fluctuations. Lack of flowering is directly related to the cool temp/short day treatment. The Easter cactus is a bit different since it is not a tropical plant. It therefore requires a dry period.

Pretty enough to inspire poets and adaptable enough to look good almost anywhere, daffodils are truly spring's indispensable flowers. Wordsworth, Spenser, Masefield, and even Shakespeare have glorified daffodils. On top of that, the fall flower-bulb gardener can choose from among more than 10,000 registered name varieties.

Making a choice from such a number of varieties for planting this fall could be bewildering. Dutch bulb growers, who supply most of the world's daffodils, offer a simple solution. They suggest gardeners become familiar with the major classes or divisions.

Individual varieties come and go, and many one-time favorites are now obsolete; but, the classes always remain. In fact, the major classes are well established and provide a solid basis for selection.

Daffodils are classified by the form or color of the flowers. Here is an outline of the major classes. It should be pointed out that daffodils are all "Narcissus" which is the scientific name for the plant genus.

Trumpet Daffodils. These are the familiar long cupflowers that comprise the basic "flower power" in every spring garden. They may be yellow (varieties such as King Alfred) or white (Mount Hood). They are valued for their size and tradition.

Large-Cupped Daffodils. Although the cup is shorter than Trumpet daffodils, it is still long in relation to the petals. Both cup and petals may be colored or only the cup colored with white petals. A daffodil is said be "colored" when any part is some color other than white.

Small-Cupped Daffodils. As the name implies, the cup is small–less than one-third the length of the petals. The petals may be the same color as the cup, or the cup may be colored and set off against white petals. Both cup and petals may be white in other varieties in this group.

Double Daffodils. Although there may be only a single flower to a stem, the flower is double–that is, there are more petals than normal which produce a bloom that resembles a full-blown rose. These sumptuous daffodils may be all yellow, yellow-petaled with an orange center, or have a colored cup against white petals.

Triandrus Hybrids. These daffodils are always white. They produce up to six flowers on one stem and are available in both small-cupped and long-cupped varieties. The petals are usually bent backwards or reflexed. "Thalia" is a well-known variety in this group.

Cyclamineus Hybrids. These charming dwarf daffodils have drooping orange-yellow cups and lemon-yellow petals, bent sharply backwards. "Baby Doll" and "February Gold" are two well-known examples.

Jonquilla Hybrids. Jonquils are familiar flowers, much appreciated for their fragrance. They are characterized by rush-like foliage and usually have several flowers on one stem. They are often a pale, buttercup yellow (Trevithian).

Tazetta. Also known as "Poetaz" daffodils, this group includes many doubles and produces clusters of flowers on one stem. Its color range is wide: yellow cup against white petals, orange cup and yellow petals, or all yellow.

Poeticus. The flowers in this class have white petals with shallow, saucer-like yellow cups edged by orange or red. These well-defined daffodils add a bright luminous note to spring gardens.

There are other divisions of daffodils, including many wild and hybrid forms. Some varieties bloom early; others, like those in the Tazetta or Poeticus groups, are late flowering.

Large daffodil bulbs should be planted 6 inches deep and 6 inches apart, while the smaller varieties are planted 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart.

When making your daffodil selections, choose a few varieties of both early and late blossoming. Make your selection based on their flowering time, either to complement tulips or other spring bulb flowers. They should be planted in groups or clusters of a dozen bulbs. Plant them "en masse" where they can be seen to their best advantage.

Tis the season .... for poinsettia questions. Here's a quick rundown on some common questions you might get during the holiday season.

Are poinsettias poisonous?

Poinsettias are not poisonous. For more than eight decades, this rumor has continued to circulate because of one unfounded story in 1919: that an Army officer's 2-year-old child allegedly died after eating a poinsettia leaf. While never proved by medical or scientific fact and later determined to be hearsay, the story has taken on a life of its own. But, the defenders of the poinsettia have pulled out all the scientific stops to allay public fears.

The Society of American Florists (SAF) worked with the Academic Faculty of Entomology at Ohio State University (OSU) to test all parts of the poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima). OSU researchers established that rats exhibited no adverse effects–no mortality, no symptoms of toxicity, and no changes in dietary intake or general behavior patterns–when given even unusually large amounts of different poinsettia parts. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) accepts animal tests as valid indicators whether any product or natural growth is harmful to human health.

The OSU research was done more than 30 years ago, and other sources have continued to reinforce the poinsettia's safety. According to the American Medical Association's Handbook of Poisonous and Injurious Plants, other than occasional cases ofvomiting, ingestion of the poinsettia plant has been found to produce no effect.

After reviewing all available poinsettia-related information, the CPSC denied a petition in 1975 to require warning labels for poinsettia plants. Despite its continued circulation, the myth of the poinsettia is gradually losing steam. Source: Society of American Florists

All that being said, poinsettias are not, of course, a food crop. So, they should not be eaten.

How do you get a poinsettia to bloom?

To get a poinsettia to re-flower you have to keep it in total darkness between 5 p.m. and 8 a.m. Start this round October 1 and continue until color shows on the bracts, usually around early to mid-December. Even brief exposure to light can prevent flowering. Covering the plant with a light-proof bag and placing it in a loset might work. Night time temperatures above 70 to 75°F. can decay or prevent flowering.

How can I make my poinsettia last during the holiday season?

Place the poinsettia in a sunny window. Do not let any part of the plant touch cold window panes.

An indoor temperature of 60 to 70°F. is ideal for long plant life. High temperatures will shorten the life of the colorful bracts.

Avoid temperature fluctuations and warm or cold drafts.

Water only when the soil is dry.

Do not fertilize when the plant is in bloom.

Placing your poinsettia in a cool room, 55 to 60°F., at night will extend blooming time.

I want to keep my poinsettia plants. When can I take them outside?

Move the poinsettia plant outside when all danger of frost has passed. Place it in a sunny area but where it will get moderate shade in the afternoon.

Should I fertilize my poinsettia if I am keeping it past the holiday season?

Fertilize once a month with a water-soluble houseplant fertilizer.

How often should I water the poinsettia?

Be sure to remove foil covering drain holes before watering. Water only when the soil is dry. Do not let the poinsettia wilt. Do not let it sit with water in the saucer. Empty the saucer.

Master Gardener training sessions get underway January 15 in southern and south-central Illinois and run through mid-April. All sessions run from 9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Locations are listed below. Be sure to promote the training in your area.

Locations

·Edwardsville area on Tuesdays

·Effingham on Wednesdays

·Marion or Murphysboro (TBD) on Thursdays

The complete training schedule, including dates and topics, can be found online at www.extension.uiuc.edu/mg/trainingschd.html

You might also check with the host site in your area and volunteer to assist if needed. And remember, you can sit in on any training sessions for a refresher–free of charge.