Nitrogen is the fertilizer nutrient most likely to be deficient in home orchards. But, this growth-stimulating nutrient should be applied according to the needs of each tree.

Too little nitrogen causes trees to become weak and unproductive. But, too much nitrogen can result in excessive shoot growth, poor fruit set, poor color and flavor, delayed ripening, and yield losses from fire blight disease. The amount of shoot growth that occurred during the past growing season indicates the amount of nitrogen the tree needs.

Examine fruit trees in early spring before the buds open. Last year's growth extends from the twig tip back to the bud scars that circle the twig. The new growth is usually a brighter yellow or red than older wood.

Healthy bearing trees six years and older should grow the following amounts during a season:

·dwarf and regular apple, 6 to 8 inches

·peach, 8 to 12 inches

·red tart cherry and plum, 8 to 12 inches

Young trees up to six years old should grow the following amounts during a single season:

· dwarf and regular apple, 10 to 20 inches

· peach, 10 to 24 inches

· red tart cherry and plum, 10 to 20 inches

Fertilize apple, plum, apricot, and cherry trees as follows:

·Apply one-fifth to one-half pound of a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 for each year of the tree's age.

·Adjust the rate according to the amount of growth the tree made during the past season. Use the lower rate on vigorously growing trees. Slow-growing and weak trees need the higher rate to give them a boost.

·Apply 1/2 to 1 pound of fertilizer for each year of a peach and nectarine tree's age; and again, adjust the rate according to the growth made during the previous year.

·None of the trees mentioned so far should receive more than 10 pounds of fertilizer per year. Pears often do best without fertilizer because of the danger of fire blight. With slow-growing and weak pear trees, fertilization should be limited to 1/5 pound of fertilizer per year of tree age with a maximum of 4 pounds per tree.

The best time to fertilize trees is in the early spring when the buds begin to swell. Spread the fertilizer under the branches, keeping it 12 inches from the trunk, and spread evenly out to the drip-line. If the soil contains adequate levels of phosphorus and potassium, you can substitute ammonium nitrate for 10-10-10, but apply only one-third as much per tree.

Maintaining attractive houseplants during winter months can be a challenge. Homes are often too dry and too warm to provide the tropical atmosphere which most of our favorite plants require. Stop fighting the site and grow a few succulents instead.

"Succulent" is a descriptive term, not a botanical classification, given to plants with thick, juicy stems and/or leaves. Succulents make great houseplants because they do not require much care, and they grow well under the dry conditions experienced in homes during the winter. All cactus plants are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. Succulents contain many general species; some are tropical, and some grow under desert conditions. Even the lily and bromeliad groups have some succulents.

One of the most popular groups of succulents is the aloe group. Aloe vera is the most popular and has been grown for centuries as both a decorative and medicinal plant. There are many other forms of aloe plants available.

The milk-striped euphorbia is another succulent often selected as a houseplant. This euphorbia grows erect like a tree and has a spiny, three-sided trunk with small leaves that tend to drop off soon after they are formed.

The haworthia from South Africa is a succulent belonging to the lily family. It is grown primarily as a foliage plant.

The Crassulaceae family is another well-liked succulent group. A prize member is the jade plant, Crassula argentea. Several of the sedums make good potted plants. The burro's tail, jellybean plant, and showy stonecrop are great in hanging baskets. The sempervivum group also makes attractive potted plants.

The culture–care, soil, watering, temperature–of all succulents is similar. Generally, they need a porous soil mix that is well drained and has some organic matter and soil in it. Succulents perform best in a reasonably rich soil mix.

The more tropical succulents prefer soil on the acid side, while the desert-type succulents prefer sunlight. A few grow under lower light conditions but will have different colors than when grown in full sunlight. All succulents need good air circulation.

As a group, the succulents require less water than many other houseplants. They can go for longer periods between waterings and can get on the dry side with less damage than many other plants. During the longer days of the growing season when the plants get more light, they need more water. During the shorter days of winter, they need less.

Succulents should be fertilized when the plants are actively growing (usually the longer days of spring and summer). Never use more than one-fourth to one-third of the amount recommended on any of the houseplant fertilizer packages. Discontinue feeding when the plants show no further growth.

Youngsters, and oldsters for that matter, who are tired of the dark, cold weather, can get an early start on spring by growing plants from kitchen scraps.

The simplest is to sprout a potato. Sprouted potatoes or sweet potatoes can be put in glasses of water and will rapidly grow into attractive plants, though don't expect to see any tubers form.

Beautiful plants can also be grown from fruit seeds that otherwise would end up with the garbage. Seeds from lemons, oranges, grapefruit, avocados, and mangos can be used for school science projects, for simple plants in that empty room space, or just for that "I grew it myself" feeling.

Almost any scrap containers such as Styrofoam cups, cottage cheese cartons, milk containers, or even tin cans can be used for starter pots. Punch holes in the bottom for drainage and use either a commercial potting soil or houseplant soil mixed with 1/3 sand and 1/3 coarse peat moss.

When starting plants from fruit seeds, choose the very ripe or overripe fruit. Seeds from over-the-hill fruit usually germinate sooner than seeds from less ripe fruit. Seeds from citrus plants such as oranges, lemons, and grapefruit can be planted directly in the potting soil. Moisten them and keep them warm until germination takes place.

Avocado takes a little more time and effort. Support the pit in a glass of water by sticking three toothpicks into the sides of the pit and resting it on the rim of the glass. The pointed end of the pit is the top. Keep the bottom immersed in water. When an inch or so of root appears from the bottom of the pit, carefully plant in potting soil so the pit is half exposed above the soil line.

Most of the plants from citrus and avocado seeds will do well in bright light and 30 percent humidity. Soil should be kept moist, but not wet, and the plants should be fed every 3 to 4 weeks when they are actively growing.

For those who want to try growing mangos, make sure that the little eye in the pit is facing up. When planted right side up, a ripe seed should germinate in 3 to 6 weeks. When the pit is planted upside down, you may have to wait 12 to 15 weeks for a sprout to appear.

To start a mango, take a pit from a fresh, ripe fruit. Scrape off as much of the flesh as possible (use an old toothbrush and warm water). This must be done to reduce chances of rotting.

Soak the pit in tepid water for 3 to 5 days and then transfer it to potting soil with the pit's eye up. Soak the soil thoroughly, then let it dry slightly before watering again (5 to 7 days). Keep it in bright light. The new shoot may get 6 inches tall before leaves appear.

Carrot tops may grow if placed just beneath the soil line in a pot. New leaves should emerge in a matter of weeks, though it is unlikely that another carrot will develop.

Those garden catalogues have begun to arrive and the pictures of blooming gardensand baskets of harvested vegetables make us think about our own gardens. Rather thanpick up whatever seeds the grocery store has available, start planning now!

Consider the size of your past gardens. Draw your garden to scale. Is the space too big?If you always have bushels of tomatoes and squash that you can't even give away, perhaps you should scale down.

To control diseases, choose resistant varieties and consider crop rotation. Do not grow the same vegetable or related vegetables in or near the same location more often than once in three years. This rotation helps to control diseases that overwinter in the soil. You should rotate cole crops such as broccoli, cabbage, turnips and cauliflower; solanaceous crops such as tomato, eggplant and peppers; and cucurbit crops such as cucumber, pumpkin, squash and melons.

Is your garden in an area that once was sunny but now is shaded by mature trees? Or, did certain varieties grow taller than anticipated and shadow other shorter types? Consider plants that tolerate a semi-sunny area rather than a full-sun situation. A vegetable garden requires a minimum of 8 to 10 hours of direct sun each day. Flower gardens can be planned according to the available light. A full-sun area receives 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight. A semi-sunny area receives 4 to 6 hours of direct sun, and a shade garden receives less than 3 hours of direct sunlight per day.

Fresh produce from your garden always seems to taste better and there is a comfort in knowing how it was grown. A garden full of cheery flowers is always a welcome site.

So, sit back in your comfortable chair and start to look through all those catalogues. The time you spend now in planning your gardens will be rewarded!

Southern Illinois Grounds Maintenance School
January 23-24Gateway Convention Center
Collinsville, IllinoisFor details, log on to http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/madisonstclair/

Southern Illinois Tree Fruit School
February 6 Holiday Inn
Mt. Vernon, Illinois

Southwest Illinois Tree Fruit School
February 7 First Presbyterian Church Hall
Hardin, Illinois

Southern Illinois Vegetable School
February 15 Holiday Inn
Mt. Vernon, Illinois

Illinois Small Fruit and Strawberry Schools
February 27-28 Holiday Inn
Mt. Vernon, Illinois For more details on these fruit and vegetable programs, visit http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/regions/hort/

Master Gardener Training programs start January 16 at southwestern Illinois locations and January 18 in Mt. Vernon. If you'd like to sit in on a session for review, contact your local U of I Extension office for a copy of the schedule. Or log on to http://www.extension.uiuc.edu/mg/