As fall approaches, many spiders reach adulthood, mate, and lay eggs for next summer. Some of these spiders, being fully grown, are large enough to cause concern, so you might get questions from clients.

Orb weavers are the most obvious large spiders since they spin large webs a foot or more in diameter during the night across sidewalks, doorways, between garden plants, and in other areas where they are quite noticeable. Most of the large, common orb weavers (Araneus) grow to a leg span of 1 to 2 inches and have light- and dark-banded legs.

Another common orb weaver is the yellow and black garden spider, or ariope. This large spider with a 2-inch leg span builds a 2-foot diameter web with a zigzag strip of white silk running vertically across the middle. Both types of spiders feed on the flies, grasshoppers, wasps, and other flying insects that get caught in their webs.

Wolf spiders also may have a 2-inch leg span, but they do not build an orb web in which to catch their prey; they run down and overpower the crickets, earwigs, and other insect prey without using a web. These

spiders are hairy, black, and usually have brownish markings on the back. They live among fallen leaves in taller grass and ground covers, and in other protected areas. In the fall, they commonly enter houses through

cracks and crevices in the foundation.

These spiders can bite, but will usually do so only if they are being crushed. Their venom, which is used to subdue their insect prey, is not very toxic to us.

Wolf spiders can be kept out of the home by spraying the outside

foundation and the soil next to it with an insecticide. Always remind

clients to carefully read and follow all label directions.

There are more than 50 spring-flowering bulbs that can be planted in the fall. Of course, the most common are daffodils, tulips, and crocus. Others have more exotic names such as Pischkinia, Chionodoxa, Allium gigantum, Fritillaria, and anemone.

Bulbs are living plants that contain the makings of complete flowers.

If you vertically slice through a bulb, you might be able to see next year's leaves, stem, and flowers. However, most bulbs have to go through a chilling or cold period in order to produce the flower buds.

Surrounding most bulbs are fleshy "scales" that supply nourishment throughout the winter and early spring. Scales are actually modified leaves.

The paper-thin wrapping around the outside of the bulb is called a tunic and provides protection from insects and diseases. Many gardeners mistakenly remove the tunic before planting.

The flat bottom of the bulb is the basal plate and the location of new roots.

Since the bulb is a living plant, it is susceptible to change. Ground temperatures in the 50s stimulate root growth while temperatures in the 40s may trigger leaf and stem growth after a root system has developed.

Spring-flowering bulbs must be planted in the fall in order to take advantage of winter temperatures. Plant from mid-September through November to ensure the 15- to 20-week cooling period that is necessary for root growth.

Good drainage is essential. If the soil is heavy clay or sand, condition it with liberal additions of organic matter such as peat moss or compost in amounts up to 50 percent of the volume.

Fertilization improves performance and encourages the bulbs to perennialize. Two fertilizing methods are recommended for spring-flowering bulbs.

The first method uses a sulfur-coated, slow-release complete fertilizer. The fertilizer, available at garden centers and nurseries, is applied to the rooting area at the rate of 1 rounded tablespoon per square foot at fall planting.

The second method uses one handful of bone meal applied to each square foot of rooting area, along with 1 tablespoon of 8-8-8 or 1 heaping teaspoon of 10-10-10 per square foot in the fall.

Make a second application of either fertilizer in the spring when shoots break through the soil surface.Bulb roots grow down and out, so planting depths and spacing are important. Plant large bulbs such as tulips and daffodils 8 inches deep from the ground to the basal plate and 4 to 6 inches apart.

Smaller bulbs such as crocus and grape hyacinths should be spaced 4 inches deep and 2 inches apart.After planting bulbs, cover halfway with conditioned soil and water thoroughly. Then, add the remaining soil and water the area again.

Finally, cover the area with a 3-inch layer of mulch. Wood chips, peat moss, or bark are good choices because they don't mat, which prevents nutrients and water from soaking into the soil.

Daffodils were brought to Britain by the Romans who thought that the sap from daffodils had healing powers. Actually, the sap contains crystals that can irritate the skin.

Greek mythology gives us the term narcissus. There was a young Greek named Narcissus. A nymph called Echo was in love with him, but Narcissus broke off the relationship. Heartbroken, she hid in a cave and died. Later, Narcissus, who was very handsome and quite taken with himself, saw his face in a pool, and as he leaned over to see better, fell in and drowned, and became the flower.

The gardening season is winding down, but some tasks still need to be done to help protect plants and prevent problems next year.

Start by clearing away dead stems and trash. Debris that is left until spring provides ideal hideouts for overwintering insects and diseases.

Plants that have died prematurely from diseases should be buried or burned. All other vegetation can be added to the compost pile where it will be turned into valuable organic matter and can later be returned to the soil.

Rake tree leaves off lawns so that they don't smother the turf grass. These leaves can also be added to the compost pile for future use. Oak leaves can be saved and used as winter mulch if you can keep them from blowing away. But, avoid using maple leaves because they dry flat and tend to compact and hold too much moisture.

Do not apply winter mulch until the ground begins to freeze, which is usually late November. Applying mulch too early can delay the natural hardening process and attract rodents.

Parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes, and carrots can be left in the ground for winter use. To facilitate late digging, cover these plants with a heavy layer of leaves or straw.

Everbearing red or yellow raspberries are pruned the same way as ordinary varieties in the spring and following the early summer harvest. But don't prune everbearing canes after fall harvest. The everbearing raspberries produce a second crop of fruit in late summer and fall from new canes that develop during the growing season.

The fall crop is produced near the tips of the new canes, but they don't die after fruiting as the canes do that produce an early summer crop. The new canes will produce the early crop next season from fruiting buds farther down on the canes.

Rodent control is also a concern. Rabbits and mice may girdle young and newly planted trees during the winter. To prevent this damage, surround lower trunks with closely-woven wire netting. Animal repellents containing Thiram are effective as well.

Continue to mow your lawn as long as the grass grows. Lower the mowing height to 1½ inches.

Dig and store tender bulbs, roots, or corms such as gladiolus, dahlia, canna, caladium, and tuberous begonia once leaves begin to yellow or after a light frost.

Carefully inspect all bulbs and discard any that are diseased. When digging, be careful not to spear the bulbs with the prong of a fork or damage them in any other way. Every wound provides an opportunity for disease organisms to enter.

Dry gladiolus corms at 70- to 80-degree temperatures and then store them in a dry, cool place. Dust with a recommended insecticide to protect against thrips.

Fall is a great time to improve garden soil. Whether floral or vegetable, one of the best things you can do for your garden is to incorporate organic matter, especially for clay or sandy soils.

Organic matter added to clay soil improves drainage and aeration, helps the soil warm earlier in the spring, and improves tilth to make it work easier. Adding organic matter to sandy soil improves its water-holding capacity and nutrient retention.

Organic materials that can be added to soils include the following:

Leaves – 75 to100 pounds per 100 square feet

Wood chips – 50 pounds per 100 square feet

Compost – 50 to 60 pounds per 100 square feet

Grass clippings – 60 pounds per 100 square feet

These organic materials should be free of weed seeds. To help the materials break down faster, add about 2 to 4 pounds of nitrogen per 100 square feet. Spade or plow the materials into the soil now so that the decomposition process can start and proceed through the winter. By spring, your garden will be ready for early planting.

Experienced gardeners know that compost is an excellent soil amendment that can give plants a real boost in vigor and health. But, how do you obtain a "high-quality" compost?

The key to good compost is to have a variety of materials. Variety increases the types of microorganisms at work in a compost pile and improves your chances of obtaining a nutrient-rich final product.

Composting requires nitrogen and carbon. Fresh, juicy materials are usually higher in nitrogen, as are materials of animal origin such as feathers, manure, and blood meal. Drier, older, or woody vegetable and plant tissues are usually higher in carbon.

When starting a compost pile, layer materials thinly and uniformly. The first layer should be 6 to 8 inches of high-carbon materials such as leaves, straw, chopped corncobs, corn stalks, untreated sawdust, twigs less than ½ inch in diameter, or garden debris.

Make the next layer animal manures, fertilizers, or starters which serve as activators that accelerate the ignition or initial heating of the compost pile. This layer should be 1 to 2 inches thick.

Next, add 1 to 2 inches of top soil or active compost on top of the first two layers. This layer provides the microorganisms necessary for decomposition.

Continue to layer the pile to the desired height. When done, mix it all together using a pitchfork or other suitable tool. Turn the pile periodically, at least every other week, to keep oxygen levels high.

For more information on composting, visit this new University of Illinois Extension website: http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/homecompost/