One of the nicest things about living in Illinois is the ever-changing seasons. And, for a short week or so, nature puts on one of her most spectacular displays as native trees and shrubs finish out the growing season in a showy display of fall colors.

Jack Frost usually gets the credit for fall color. But in reality, a hard frost would quickly destroy the colorful beauty, killing the leaves and resulting in the brown of winter.

How do we become the beneficiaries of such a brilliant display of color? The fall colors come from five major pigment groups. The greens, evident in summer, are a product of the chlorophylls. The yellows are from xanthophylls pigments. The oranges, as well as some yellows and reds, are a result of the presence of carotenoid pigments. The very showy shades of dark red, scarlet, and crimson are due to anthocyanins. The least noticeable pigments seen in the fall are the tannins that are responsible for the deep browns of oaks.

Fall color of a particular plant is hereditary but is also affected by the environmental conditions. The kind of pigments and the color the leaves turn are genetically controlled. Every fall, across the land, birch trees all turn yellow, red oaks turn red, Ohio buckeyes turn orange, and so on.

The amount of color that develops each fall is influenced by light, water, temperature, nutrition, and the soluble sugar produced by the plant.

Sugar accumulation in the leaves is the most important factor in the production of anthocyanins and the intensity of the red and orange pigments. Trees and shrubs kept healthy during the summer with full sun and adequate nutrients and water have the greatest potential for intense fall color from anthocyanins.

Whether the color develops depends on fall weather conditions. Sunny fall days followed by cool (40-50°F.) nights favor accumulation of sugars in the leaves. Cloudy fall days and warm nights result in decreased sugar production and movement of sugar out of the leaves, resulting in less fall color.

The yellow pigments due to the xanthophylls and carotenoids are actually present in the leaves during the summer, but they are hidden by the dark green chlorophyll in the leaves. As temperatures and light intensity decrease in late summer and early fall, the chlorophyll breaks down and exposes the yellow pigments.

A greenhouse can be an excellent addition to your home. With a greenhouse, you can rotate plants from your garden or home to the greenhouse and back again. This rotation keeps plants vigorous and in better condition.

If your funds are limited, consider a window greenhouse which usually fits a standard window. A window greenhouse conveniently uses heat from your home, but the downside is that plant space is limited.

The lean-to greenhouse is one of the most useful designs for many homeowners. It can be attached to the house over a door or near a doorway. The home supplies the water, electricity, and heat. You can even use a window to allow heat to enter the greenhouse directly from the home. Make sure you have a secondary heat source as a backup when heat is not available.

If you have a lot of plants, you may need a large, free-standing greenhouse. You'll want to check your zoning ordinances to confirm whether a free-standing structure is permitted. Check local regulations before building!

As for location, the greenhouse should be placed where there is maximum sunlight throughout the day, especially in the morning. Therefore, a lean-to style is best placed on the east, southeast, or south walls of the house.

If your greenhouse gets summer sunlight during the morning and early afternoon, then shade from trees on the west is not a problem–the shade will help prevent heat buildup. And in the winter, when light is needed, tree leaves have dropped and afternoon sunlight can reach the greenhouse. Remember to keep your greenhouse away from large buildings which can also shade it.

Land drainage is another important factor in selecting the location for your greenhouse. Avoid standing water, and provide drains if natural drainage is not good.

Material selection may depend on the dollars you want to spend. Glass, fiberglass, or plastic film can be used to cover the greenhouse.

Glass is very attractive. Lexane is a high-quality fiberglass material. Plastic film requires more attention to keep it attractive and in good repair.

So if the end of the gardening season dampens your spirits, give some thought to installing a newgreenhouse. The rewards will bloom throughout the year.

To-Do List for Flower Gardens

·Divide and transplant peonies. Be sure you have three to five eyes per division and don't plant eyes more than 2 inches deep.

·Order bulbs and plant this month and into October. Add some early spring bloomers such as winter aconite and snowdrops.

·Dig tender bulbs such as dahlias, tuberous begonias, caladium, gladioli, and cannas before a hard freeze. A light frost, just injuring the leaves, is okay. Cure in a warm room and store in a box of sawdust, peat moss, or vermiculite at 45 to 50 degrees.

·Stop fertilizing roses and perennial flowers to encourage dormancy.

Some things are such nonconformists that they defy category. Take, for example, spring-flowering bulbs. The small Chionodoxa and the looming Allium gigantum, the early- flowering Anemone and the late- flowering Fritillaria, grape-like Muscari and bell-shaped Galanthus are dissimilar in most every respect–except their strange sounding names.

One of the first bulbs to bloom is Eranthis, or Winter Aconite, a golden spherical flower, like a buttercup, set in a rosette of frill, finely-cut leaves on a short stem. They brighten the spring landscape like miniature light bulbs.

Another early-flowering bulb is Galanthus, or Snowdrop, with small, frosty-white bellflowers which spread rapidly by bulb division and self-seeding. The most popular species is G. nivalis with narrow, strap-shaped leaves and pure white flowers that grow on 5- to 7-inch stems. In contrast to this single flower, 'Flore Pleno' spots two white flowers on each stem.

Blooming just after Galanthus and growing roughly to the same height, Glory-of-the-Snow, or Chionodoxa, produces sky-blue, starry flowers with white centers. Various species have different shades of blue flowers. Glory-of-the-Snow flowers look up to the sky from their slender green stems.

Scilla or squills look like the Chionodoxa, but their flowers hang down like a drooping head. Squills have grass-like leaves and are good for naturalizing areas of the landscape.

Muscari owes its popular name, Grape Hyacinth, to its tiny blue flowers that resemble bunches of grapes. Most are blue or purple, but some have white flowers. Grape hyacinth foliage often appears in the late fall or early winter. However, don't worry because the blooms won't arrive until spring. Grape hyacinths also naturalize.

Among the perkiest of all spring flowers, Anemones have varieties that bloom in early spring and early summer. Some flowers are poppy-shaped, others have double rows of petals. Some reach 1 foot, others are barely 6 inches.

Fritillaria is a tall, late-flowering bulb. Sometimes called the checkered lily or Guinea hen flower because of its curious shape and markings, Fritillaria meleagris grows six-pointed, drooping bells that are white, light chartreuse, reddish-brown, or purple. Two or three flowers to a single 8-inch stem appear in late spring.

The giant of the clan, Fritillaria imperialis, or Crown Imperial, grows to about 3 feet. Strong tubular stems support five to seven upside-down, tulip-shaped flowers of yellow, red, or orange with a green ruff on top. Flowers may not have the most pleasant aroma.

Allium, with many variations in size and flowering time, is the glamorous cousin of the onion with round flowers in shades of red, white, light blue, lavender, purple, or yellow.

Plant all of these spring-flowering bulbs in a fertile and well-drained soil. Mix bone meal, high in phosphorus, magnesium and calcium, into soil that has been loosened to a depth of 10 to 12 inches.

Set bulbs in soil, pointed ends up. Small bulbs require 2-inch depth and 3-inch spacing. Plant large bulbs 6 to 8 inches deep from the base of the bulb and space them 6 inches apart.

Cover with soil and water. The area should be mulched with wood chips or compost to stabilize ground temperatures. Water regularly until the ground freezes.

After blooms fade next spring, cut the stems just below the flower, but don't cut foliage until it turns yellow. Even after flowers die, the leaves help build nutrients to generate a new bulb for next year's show.

If you saved your poinsettia from last December, now is the time to start the process to insure you will have beautiful blooms this holiday season. If you cut them back in March and again in July, and set them outdoors for the summer, fall is the time to start the re-blooming.

Bring your plants indoors before night temperatures dip in to the mid 40's. Chilling injuries occur when night temperatures drop below 45 degrees for an extended period of time. The plants can be taken back outdoors during the day when temperatures are warm enough. Check for unwanted pests both on the plant and in the soil and remove them. Fertilize plants every two weeks.

Poinsettias produce flowers in response to a certain amount of daylight. This process is called photoperiodism. Poinsettias are short-day/long-night plants. To re-flower, they must be kept in complete darkness from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m. daily from mid-October until good color is showing in the bracts–usually mid-December. Complete darkness can be achieved by placing the plant in a completely dark basement or placing a black plastic bag over the plant. Just be sure to remove it at 8 a.m. every morning!

You can also place the plant uncovered in a dark closet with a light set on a timer. Night time temperatures should range between 60 and 70 degrees. If night temperatures are above 70 to 75 degrees, the plant may be delayed in its flowering.

The colorful, showy part we call the "flower" is actually made up of modified leaves called bracts. By mid-November, you should start to notice the bracts changing colors. Even though you see color change, keep your long night schedule. Once the bracts are large and fully colored, you can set them out to enjoy!

The short-day/long-night period is crucial. Many people will miss a night or two, and this can affect flowering. Perseverance will insure success.

Dear Master Gardeners,

September marks the start of a new program year for U of I Extension and the beginning of your year with new officers and committees taking the lead. I appreciate all of you so readily saying 'yes' as you've been contacted to take on new responsibilities.

At the same time, September affords us the opportunity to thank those who have served in leadership positions during the past year. Kathy Hummel, started last year as our VP, but moved up to the president level during the winter. Joyce Allen took on the responsibilities of the VP and Mary Smith served as the secretary/treasurer for the year (or two or three). We owe each of them a huge thank you for shouldering leadership responsibilities in 2005-06.

The fall plant sale is coming right up---be sure to bring in your contributions to the 4-H Extension Center on September 19 between 5 and 6:30 pm for pricing. All your plants should be labeled with name and growing conditions. If you can not make the group pricing on the 19^th, you may bring your plants to the square early (6 am) on the 20^th. Plants brought in that morning must already be priced and labeled. – we won't have time to do it for you that morning.

We need your help in two ways to make this a successful event. First, please spread the word that we will be participating in the Farmer's Market on the Square on Wednesday, September 20. Second, participate in some way–donate plants, work a shift, set up or take down, label and price. Call Kate Lutz to get your name on the schedule of workers.

Are you checking out our county extension web site regularly? We change the program links periodically, so if you think you looked over everything last month, look again. We just added pumpkin information last week and the fall apple details are included on the nutrition site. You may want to check out some of the 4-H and Schools Online offerings if you have grandchildren or young people around. The extension site with the most hits for the state in August was 'the great plant escape,' which is on the Coles County site in the Schools On-Line program area. And, you may want to look at the 'miracle of fall' on the same link. www.extension.uiuc.edu/coles has horticulture/entomology items of interest on several program links, not just the horticulture and Master Gardener connections. Check it out!

Enjoy the warm days and cool evenings. It's almost time for bonfires and sweatshirts! Yea!

SLK