Flavors from the Farmers Market

By DEBORAH GERTZ HUSAR, Herald-Whig Staff Writer

Janet Scoggan and Mathew Logsdon readily tick off a list of what to look for in this year's Locally Grown FoodFest chef competition.

Something unique, flavorful and well thought out. Something put together and presented well.

The pair, representing Quincy Country Club, won the 2007 competition and will be part of this year's judging panel. The competition challenges five chefs/teams to turn locally grown ingredients from the farmers market into tasty dishes within 45 minutes at the fourth annual festival slated for Aug. 2 festival in Washington Park.

Scoggan and Logsdon say a key ingredient in the competition is doing some prep work, much like they do any time they cook. Having all the ingredients ready for a recipe, or mise en place, "helps things go much easier," Scoggan said.

They scouted the market ahead of time to learn what was available, decided on a menu and even made it three or four times in the country club's kitchen.

They opted for a Stacked Heirloom Tomato and Fresh Mozzarella Salad served with a balsamic reduction, tomato foam (a combination of heavy cream and tomato puree) and spring mix greens with a fresh lemon herb vinaigrette. With no locally grown fruit available, Scoggan fashioned a Zucchini Cobbler, similar in flavor to apple cobbler.

"It was yummy," she said.

Most important was putting the locally grown ingredients to good use, something Scoggan and Logsdon do at the country club and in their own cooking.

"The quality is 50 times better than anything you get at the store," Logsdon said.

The club uses locally grown tomatoes -- often in a simple salad featuring red onion, blue cheese and Italian dressing -- and corn during the summer's "short window of opportunity" for homegrown flavor.

"Tomatoes during the winter are so horrible," Scoggan said. "When you send out a nice salad with fresh tomatoes on it, it feels better."

Both Scoggan and Logsdon enjoy the feel of spending time in the kitchen.

Logsdon started at the age of 15 working at the now-shuttered Vintage International and has been cooking ever since, including the past three years at the club running the grill and preparing plenty of steaks and salmon.

He's learned the importance of knowing the basics and building from there -- and that cooking doesn't have to be hard.

"When I learned Alfredo Sauce, it was so easy," said Logsdon, noting other "building blocks" for cooks are Beurre Blanc and Hollandaise Sauce with variations.

Scoggan spent 20 years as a nurse before graduating from the Culinary Institute in Chicago in 1999 and taking a job at the club. She does the baking, with Chocolate Raspberry Amaretto Torte one of the most popular treats, and works as the roundsman, filling in for every chef in the kitchen.

On Mondays, when the club is closed, the chefs try to prepare a nice meal for their own families. Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Fresh Peach Salsa was something Scoggan "threw together" one Monday.

Scoggan tops toasted baguette slices with flavorful Mushroom Tapenade, and she craved the dipping sauce from Restaurant Piatti in Sacramento, Calif., so much after moving back to Quincy that she called and asked for the recipe. My Favorite Dipping Sauce, served with toasty baguette and a glass of Chianti, is a favorite for Scoggan and several club members.

Bourbon Rosemary Cake is another of Scoggan's favorites, and it's the only one of her recipes that needs to be carefully followed.

"Recipes are guides, unless you are in the bakery. It is important to follow baking recipes closely to ensure success," she said. "Other recipes can be altered to your taste. Use your imagination, and have fun in the kitchen."

The same advice, especially having fun, works well for the upcoming chef competition.

"Stay calm," Logsdon said. "It's not that much time, but there's enough time."

-- dhusar@whig.com/221-3379

Printed in the Quincy Herald-Whig on 7/14/08

Posted by Carrie Edgar at 8:52 AM |